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Hard starting in cold weather with 98/95 merge

maybe the PCM was damaged at some point, or auto enginuity is wrong.

14.9 on the batts is still too high though.

Did you have the batteries on a charger? The batteries shouldnt be lower than the alternator output. Do the 96+ have the voltage regulator inside the alternator like on 94-95?
 
buddy said:
maybe the PCM was damaged at some point, or auto enginuity is wrong.

14.9 on the batts is still too high though.

Did you have the batteries on a charger? The batteries shouldnt be lower than the alternator output. Do the 96+ have the voltage regulator inside the alternator like on 94-95?
Click to expand...
My batts where draining overnight,I found out why, alt is shot,big power drain over big alt wire.

That may have caused all the mahem, I need to get new alt and test again.

I cant believe all the troubles i went trough with this truck, that is prob what one gets when buying a non running truck "as is"

Engine was fried[I new this] Vin check revealed all maintenance and repairs where done up to engine cratering by the same dealer.[truck had been sitting for 5 yrs]

Repairs i did within 250 km after rebuild of engine::rolleyes5:[Dont laugh]:

2 ball joints,1 tierod end,1 ABS front wheel sensor,1 doorlock motor,2 power door lock switches,heatercore,clean out the entire exhaust[full of mice nests and canola seed]complete rear axle overhaul[no oil in the pumpkin and brakes and drums totally shot],new e brake cables, both rear dr shaft steady brgs.Now a new alt,and i just found out the friggin tank is collapsed as well, cause i looked why the truck ran out of fuel yesterday with a 3/4 full tank on the gauge and no vac present[must have happened with the former owner].
Slam bam,thank you mam. So what's next.
 
buddy said:
Wow, so youre saying its been a real joy.

How did you determine the drain was to the alternator? Did you tie an ammeter in line from batt to alt?
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i could find only a 0.1 amp draw at the underhood fuse block. then i took the lead of the alt and measured a 14 amp draw between the stud and the lead with the DVM. I dont think there should be any at shutdown.

Yea, a real joy.:toetap05: It starts to want me to:smash:
 
buddy said:
What does the TDCO read on the scanner now?

Is this KOKO procedure only for OBD2?

GMTDScan just does it for me when I press a button in the software. Does the AE software not have it?
Click to expand...

Yes ko/ko only OBD-II and only happens when >170F and ALL codes cleared from active and deep history.

what has worked best for me clear codes, then start truck get well above 170F, before attempting ko/ko TDC learn command, because if at 170 exactly while doing learn if it drops below that the learn may not happen.
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
BumpToTop

TD, any ideas.....you said you were thinking about it........As well as many other things I'm sure.........Sorry if that didn't sound right.


Thanks,
Click to expand...

My apology I've been very busy of late with work and haven't even logged on but once or twice lately, I was going to talk around the TSM and cold advance during start, but since scanner he recently got was showing >-2.02 that would be same as bad TSM not doing correct cold start time advance, with timing way out and cold weather, it must have been really far out of advance time on cold days.
 
bison said:
I cant believe all the troubles i went trough with this truck, that is prob what one gets when buying a non running truck "as is"
Click to expand...

Feel your pain my brother, bought my 98 Burb off ebay after Katrina, was a good deal only because I had patience & knowhow to fix it (bought it really for trans/engine but was able to make daily driver out of it), new glows/glow control-no PCM comms (bad ABS control module killing comms)-overhauled trans after no reverse intermittently-ac compressor housing leaked-new alt-roof/body leaks when it rains hard and wind is blowing just so-broke fuel sender-new batts-rotted heater quick disconnect-bad vac pump-tie rods/pitmam/idlerarm/alignment

I'm still not done with it, I've still got to swap bodies as I suspect work to fix body/frame issues (I suspect a tree fell on top of it looking at the before and after pictures, after seller "repaired" it/misrepresented it) will cost more than the $1350 I paid for a complete body I've driven 40K though since I did make it streetable so at some point I'll break even with it.
 
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