H1 Hummer Cummins Swapped

[Sand]

My engine crane is about 5"short at full extension of making the block meet the trans...hehe.
I'm grabbing a engine tilter and taking the weekend off. I know I'll have to lift the body up but just need to prove it myself.
A few details-
-4l80e bellhousing bolt holes need enlarging for bigger bolts the adapter plate uses.
-I'm certain I'm going to go with a water/air intercooler. Less volume on the radiator stack and I can route the boost pressure behind the head to the intake(where the 6.5 turbo plumbing sat).
-grid heater will likely need relocating. The intake is the highest point and will probably hit the hood. But we get snow...I should retain it...

 

[LowRam]

This is the rigging I use taking the Motor in and out. In this picture the head is coming off. Same rigging.

It allows for tilting and rotating and is pretty close to the balance point.

Harder to see the plate on the intake, but it's the only picture I have of it.

As far as the cherry picker, the one we have doesn't have a long enough arm to safety put one in or out since they are around 1000 ils of motor. We have done it with a guy standing on the back, but not recommended. Leaving off accessories makes it a bit easier, lighter and safer.

 

[Sand]

Nice. I was going to sling it in the middle next. Might end up hanging it off the 2 post hoist and putting the truck under. Just need to really be careful of my winsheilds. The heated ones are about 2k per side when done on an insurance claim. Cheaper myself if theres no claim involved but still..

 

[LowRam]

Yeah, don't break the glass. Unless the body is off it will need to tilt to get in. We've done it enough that Carl and I can sit one in about 5 minutes. The mounts are near the balance point so it sits nice without fear of it tearing the mounts. A couple of threaded posts off the adapter plate the trans will slide right into place.
Of course, we have an arm we put on the hi-lo forks to give us plenty of room.

 

[Will L.]

Wow 2k?!? Both my windshields are a little pitted but not enough to bother me. At that price those bullet proof heated ones from the russian sounds like they would be in order If that ever happens.

I agree on the water to air instead of air to air to help the stack.

 

[Sand]

I could have had the pair from Russia for 1k us but the insurance company insisted on ordering from AMG through a half dozen middlemen. $2300 all done for one side. I paid the 200 dollar deductable.
I'm sold on water to air as well.

 

[Sand]

I even thought about putting the water to air radiator on it's own set of louvers from the hood over a wheel well.

 

[Kinga6182]

Happy I found this thread! I bought one of Steve's kits with the wilwood brake upgrade back in August. I'm about to pull the body on my 97.5 and start the swap this week. I was searching for info on mounting brackets for the GM alternator on a freightliner A/C bracket (some people call it the high mount A/C bracket). Spotted Steve's truck in the image link and here I am.

 

[Will L.]

@Kinga6182
Welcome.
Please put your rig info in the signature line- it helps with identifying questions in the future.

And remember we all like pics for show and tell time - start a thread on your ride!

 

[Sand]

I did really careful measures and templates when the 6.5 was in to allow me to replicate the same crank centerline with the Cummins in place.
The engine dropped in not too bad after getting it tilted up nice and high. A little jiggling of the transmission and we got the adapter plate bolted to the transmission.
I can't get the same crank centerline though.... the corner of the block and oil pan would interfere with the front diff u-joint and yoke...
Here you can see the 6.5 centerline is marked with a steel ruler on it. And already my block corner is resting on the yoke.

 

[Sand]

Here's the block/yoke interference.

 

[Sand]

I'm guessing there is a little wiggle room for variation in where I park the block. Share some pics of the close up of this junction?

 

[Sand]

I'm pouring through your pics on the last 8 pages. It looks like you keep to the 6.5 crank angle (front to back of the vehicle) but placed the nose of the engine a little higher than the stock 6.5 sits. How much clearance do you have between the diff yoke and block at the timing cover?
Sandy

 

[LowRam]

I'm sure I fiddled it around to get clearance, but it's really close. On the first one I "adjusted" the oil pan a little after I noticed a paint scratch after the boss was doing some extreme launches.
About the same time I made solid mounts for it too. Just that one though truck though.

All I could find picture wise it the clearance from the Idler arm Bolt. Make sure you have the bolts nuts in or you'll hate changing the arm later. Trust me, been there.

You can see the height and distance fairly well.

 

[Sand]

Perfect. Just the kind of "guide" I was after!

 

[LowRam]

King, if you look through the pics you'll get a good idea of how we do it. That Wilwood kit is nice and we put it together as simple as we could.
For serious stopping, we put the big brakes on the back of the LSX Hummer, It locks all 4 wheels up (37 inch swampers)

 

[LowRam]

Here's a peek at the LSX 454 powered dune toy on it's way to get some tuning.
Big Wilwood brakes front and rear, full cage attached to the frame through the body, 4 suspension seats with harnesses'. Wicked fast.

 

[Kinga6182]

That LSX looks mean! When I was speaking to Steve this summer, I brought up the rears and he stated they were in the works. With the 42s I'll be running, I like the idea of added stopping power. From what I hear, it makes the rear brake jobs much easier, but you have to give up the parking brake to run them.

 

[Sand]

And just for general knowledge- six of these came in my Cummins gasket set. What the blazes are they? I've scoured the net and found nothing.. I'm guessing I dont need them but I'm still curious.

 

[Kinga6182]

I would guess to keep dirt out of the oil passages while the head is off