Got a 93 K3500...What to do with it ?

[Acesneights1]

Well I probably won't get the motor back in until the end of the week as it never stops friggin raining here. I powerwashed the crap out of the engine Compt. surprised EPA didn't show up. Damn that truck was nasty with leaks. If the motor runs good I think I will register the truck and lay up the CUCV for HG's and turbo upgrade and repaint to mil spec.

 

[1995yukon65]

Dayyum you were busy today kenny. I love your engine hoist. Hope everything goes together well and she gives you many good miles.

 

[Acesneights1]

I gotta get a clutch for it tommorow too. Anybody ever use centerforce ?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword= Centerforce DF987983&dds=1
After reading Dave's horror story I want to make sure I get good parts.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I've got a couple of centerforce clutch's they're good clutch's

 

[Acesneights1]

I looked at South bend...$$$$. Not knowing how thins thing is gonna run, I think I'll just go for a LUK.

 

[Acesneights1]

Little nervous about something. I was reading up on Luk clutches and they had a TSB about changing over from a dual mass to single mass flywheel. The flywheel looks pretty new in this truck and it said something about installing a damper between the t case and tranny as part of the conversion. what if this truck had a dual mass and someone put a sinlge mass in and did not do that ? Could that have led to the Harmonic Balancer failure and subsequent broken crank ?

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

I was pricing the Luk and Southbend "complete" Dual to Single mass kit (for the 7.3) and the prices were just about the same, for both "complete" single mass conversions......Is it the 6.5 that pricing is so far apart?

 

[iamdave0887]

I gotta get a clutch for it tommorow too. Anybody ever use centerforce ?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword= Centerforce DF987983&dds=1
After reading Dave's horror story I want to make sure I get good parts.

Really like the look of the RhinoPac clutch in my K-5 now. Looked to have kevlar in the disc(red colored strands of fiber). It was Pricey though at close to $200.

Avoid Perfection/AutoStoned TO bearings. One in the same(same part #). The clutch is good(never was able to slip it), the throwout bearing sucks.

I did a bunch of research since i had plenty of time and the 6.2s had 2 different clutch kits from RhinoPac. The 04-087 has Nylon in the clutch hub where the splines go, to cut down on gear roll noise at idle. The 04-122(the one i have in there) for 88 to ~91 or so, doesn't have this nylon in the hub. It's all steel. No nylon to wear out, and they do wear out.

I doubt the conversion from dual to single caused the balancer to pop on yours.

The 6.2 had the solid flywheel all along. The engine in my shed has a solid flywheel straight from GM in front of the SM465.

The 6.5 did have a solid flywheel to start with, then they went to the dual(94/95 i think) then they later went back to the single after the duals started coming apart.

Oh, do yourself a favor. There's a drain tube onthe back of the motor for the engine valley. This did not come on vehicles equipped with an automatic(my engine didn't have one but the factory 4-spd engine in my shed did). This prevents anything from dripping on the flywheel/clutch. I didn't have it installed as i didn't know. It's in there now.

Also make sure there's a pilot bearing/bushing in the crank snout. Again, autos had nothing there. If there isn't one that could be the shifting issues your having. I'd run a bushing over a bearing. If a bearing fails the hardened rollers chew the input shaft to shit. If a bushing fails, it just turns to dust since it's a softer metal.

If you need a bushing i have one here brand new in the plastic still for a 1 1/8" 10 spline input shaft. 90% of the kits come with the bearings.

Also regardless of where you order parts from, or the brand, look everything over 200% before installing it. Thanks to UPS i turned down 2 clutch kits due to friction disc damage(physical cracks) before i got one that wasn't damaged.

As far as the CUCV magically loosing 1.5 gallons of coolant is not a good sign. Oil milky? Hope not.

I'd look for leaks in hoses or even the water pump itself before ripping that engine apart. This goes double if any are original.

 

[midniteplowboyy]

The 92's came with a dual mass. I wish I had put the daul mass back in when the flywheel came apart, so much smoother and no gear chatter, but it was cheaper to convert than a new daul mass flywheel was. I have a perfectly good dual mass pressure plate and clutch if someone local needs it, prolly not worth shipping.

Make sure to check the clutch fork and pivot ball, there's a grease zerk for it, very very common to wear out if not lubed.

Check with your stealer, my conversion kit was surprisingly a little cheaper than the local parts house was.

 

[Acesneights1]

NAPA claims thier clutch kit is LUK.
The HG on the CUCV is definitely bad. I'm not really concerned as I had planned to change them and stud them regardless before the turbo upgrade. The factory printoseal gaskets were garbage. Interesting enough I have the factory manual on the 6.2 diesel and had to look up the torque sequence for the 6.5(same) and there was notes in the TSM about the Head bolts not being adequete and upgraded ones being available. I believe the first gen Head bolts were not TTY and the TTY came about as a bandaid. Interesting. I personally will NEVER use anything but ARP studs. They are well worth the money.

 

[DieselSlug]

My old engine had horrid cracks between the valves. Wish i could have gotten compression tests on each cylinder before removal. Ended up selling it in pieces, head gaskets were in surprisingly good shape.

 

[WarWagon]

You would have to put this truck on ebay to be fair to the members on here if you decided to sell this truck. :hihi:

Looking at the pics:
I would re-ring the engine and deglaze the cylinders. Looks like you are getting oil in the cylinders.
I would check the plugs and cam freeze plug extra careful for leaks even though there looks to be a lot of block drainage from the drain hole. From disassembly? X2 on the drain pipe, BK should have a pic of this.
I would not reuse a head with cracks between the valves. They hit coolant and will blow the water out of the radiator - been there done that.
Do not mix up precups. Engine will run uneven as the precups control power and economy by amount of air. You can swap precups to keep them the same as long as they are flush with the head after swapping. 3/16" is the max serviceable crack length in a precup by the book. I have seen them cracked very badly with 2-3 cracks each - in fact only the low miles engines I got did not have any cracks. They did when I put them to use though...

Last check the bearings. Rear main and front seals leaking can be because the worn bearings take the seals out. The leak build up looked worse on my truck with the copper colored mains and peeing front seal...

 

[Acesneights1]

I think the soot was from the timing. You had top see how bad off it was. Once I retimed it it ran beautiful. I disconnected the CDR and it had no blowby. I'm not dumping a ton of money into it. I put the heads back on last night with Hg's because the general consensus up till now had been those cracks are normal. If I fire it up tommorow and she's still blowin antifreeze then the only thing I am out is HG's and at that point I will dismantle the truck. I don't need the truck and can't warrant spending 6-700$ + parts for new heads. Gonna take tommorow off and plop the motor back in. Everything else I used like the ARP's the new clutch etc are recyclable to the CUCV. So I'll be two days labor and about 80$ in gaskets. I'm not putting anymore effort into this truck than that. My torch awaits....

 

[Acesneights1]

BTW the engine casting # is in Braile and I didn't know where Helen Keller was buried to dig her up and put her back together with the hot glue gun, but I think it says 929 ???

 

[Acesneights1]

Putting the motor back in today....fingers crossed...

 

[1995yukon65]

Good luck kenny. I really hope everything is good on that motor. it would be a shame to see the truck get cut up. although if it does get cut up I know she will be put to good use on the other trucks

 

[iamdave0887]

Best of luck man.

I'm having all sorts of fun here. The Banks crossover pipe i have is wrong since it's for a 2wd. Another $200 to banks and the correct one will be on it's way. :mad2:

Sometimes i wish we weren't at opposite ends of the state. Could really use someone reliable(as in they actually show up when they say "i'll be there in an hour.") to assist in trans re-install.

 

[Acesneights1]

I hear ya, same here. I swung that motor back in today by myself. It wasn't fun. The engine hoist is too small. It's for doing foreign cars and the hydrualics in the skidsteer creep.

 

[Acesneights1]

That drain pipe for the engine valley is discontinued and I didn't have time to try and find one. Not sure what it looks like as I have never seen one but I made this little ditty up. The pic was snapped before I secured it to the bolt hole with a clamp. I flared the end in the valley and packed snot around it. Cleared the flywheel no prob. Better than nothing right ? I am so ****ing pissed. I bought the bracket for the starter and forgot to chase the hole while the engine was on the stand. So I go to pu the bolt in in the truck and the ****ing thing snapped in the hole. Mother****er...:mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2:
Ran out of daylight but it's in. Hopefully get er runnin tomorrow.

 

[bk95td]

You have the right idea with the tube. Here is one I fabbed up for one of my 94s




That sucks about the starter brace bolt. I try to remember to chase all bolt holes but can easily miss one.