Got a 93 K3500...What to do with it ?

[1995yukon65]

Good luck. Hope your luck stays good with this one. If not just message me... lol

 

[Burning oil]

I can get the ARP head studs for $174.

 

[Acesneights1]

I can get the ARP head studs for $174.

Thanks, That s a good price. I'm good for now. I have a set I had bought for my CUCV awhile ago I'm gonna use but when I need to replace them I'll keep that in mind.

 

[3500GMC]

Regular cab one-ton me likey...

6 inch lift too. Hmmm.

In Ohio trucks with bodies like that go for big dollars. Just sayin. And no I don't want another rolling abortion...

 

[Acesneights1]

I think you do want it...:rof:

 

[88gmctruck]

The NV4500 is a hydraulic clutch, there isn't really any adjustment but you can make sure the hydraulics are bled correctly. I know in both my truck you have to have the pedal about 3/4 of the way down to shift it. Also, the NV4500 DOESN'T shift fast, it's just not designed for it. It's a 1-ton trans with straight cut gears.

Another note on the NV4500, it requires a special fluid called Castrol Syntorque, available from GM or Dodge. I've heard various things about using other comparable fluids that are formulated to be compatible with the NV4500 (such as redline or amsoil) and the consensus is they make the transmissions notchy and noisier. I can attest that the NV4500 in my 88 with amsoil is louder and more difficult to shift than the NV4500 in the 99 with the GM fluid in it.

 

[Acesneights1]

Thanks for the input. I will change the fluid. I am certain given the rest of the truck that the PO(not the one I got it from)probably just threw gear oil in it.

 

[Acesneights1]

Cracked Head

Well I ripped the pass side head off. The gasket looks really ugly and I found a crack between the valves. I may use the other head from the old motor. This engine is ugly. I am seriously thinking about just yanking it back out and resealing the entire motor. It would be easy to pull out right now. I noticed when I drove it the other day the clutch was chattering a bit and I see alot of oil coming out of the bellhousing. This thing had a million fuel leaks so I'm not sure if the rear main seal is toast but at this point it would be easier to pull the motor than pull the tranny later. I'm gonna pull the trans dust cover and inspect tommorow. I may keep this truck. I'm starting to like it. Motor looks good otherwise. Cyls have no wear at all and the truck had zero blowby. What the heck is all that crud on the valves though and why are the heads covered in soot in the combustion area so badly ? Is that from him running the truck out of time ? I drove it up and down the block a few times after I re timed it so I would think that would have burned off.

 

[3500GMC]

. What the heck is all that crud on the valves though and why are the heads covered in soot in the combustion area so badly ? Is that from him running the truck out of time ? I drove it up and down the block a few times after I re timed it so I would think that would have burned off.

It'd take a minute to get the soot out of there. Crud could be from leaky valve stem seals maybe. I bet it's a combination of all the above.

 

[Acesneights1]

What about that crack between the valves ? Is that my compression leak ? Also if I use the spare head I have do I have to worry if the precups are the same to the other head ?

 

[3500GMC]

Those cracks will not leak off that much compression, if any. A lot of engines are running around with cracks.(pic) .. You might want to get all the same cups in there. Hopefully the deck surface is the same between the two. The cups can't hang out any.. Or sink into the head. FLAT..

 

[Acesneights1]

yep, that is exactly what the crack looks like. I'm getting compression ino the coolant. Probably the HG. It looked really ugly. Every gasket on this motor seems to be leaking.

 

[iamdave0887]

Odds are it's just the gasket. The heads crack in-between the valves all the time. I'm honestly amazed the formerly seized 6.2(which still turns over after no winter "storage prep" this past winter) in my shed had no cracks in the one head i removed. Now if the other side and the bottom end are crack free it'll be a miracle.

 

[Acesneights1]

I'm gonna pull the motor back out today. I know if I don't that rear main seal is gonna piss oil all over the clutch. It's only 8 more bolts and a few lines to yank the motor at this point.

 

[bk95td]

You may want to remove the rubber motor mount clamshells from the frame rather than just the through bolt. The NV4500 is tight to the tunnel on these. Very little room to go up to clear the clamshells.

 

[Acesneights1]

You may want to remove the rubber motor mount clamshells from the frame rather than just the through bolt. The NV4500 is tight to the tunnel on these. Very little room to go up to clear the clamshells.

Tell me about it...I put the motor in this truck. it was a biatch. I was thinking that because the truck has a lift and the clamshells are easy to get at although I did get it back in the first time with the through bolts.

 

[Acesneights1]

More pics. Got the Kent Moore seal installer.

 

[tanman_2006]

Nicely done, hope it all goes back together and treats you good. I love my 93 3500 NV4500 its a beast!

 

[Acesneights1]

Heads are back on. waiting for pan gasket and Rear main seal. don't forget when doing HG's to run a tap down the holes. I used a speed wrench on the tap. I noticed all the precups had hairline cracks in them. Is this normal ? Even the spare head had cracks in the same place. BTW the other head from this motor has the same crack across the valves. Not knowing if I could mix and match precups I used both original heads. I strongly suspect the HG's were bag. They fell apart upon removal. The fire rings fell right out of them.

 

[Acesneights1]

I just went to use the CUCV....1.5 gallons low on coolant...:mad2:
WTF ???
:suicide: