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Going mechanical with a Moose Omega Marine IP

I started the truck this morning. It was 52*F when I started it and it had been sitting for 14 hours. It started right up with just 1 little stumble. There was no white smoke. So initially it looks like I'm going to be ok. I will keep tabs on it the next few days and of course make some more videos. It will be interesting to see how well it starts in the cold of winter. I won't be surprised if I still need to put the cold advance solenoid back in the cover.
 
I was thinking just make one. I don't know if one already exists . Solenoid on the throttle pedal maybe? or a special cable linkage that pulls on throttle ???
 
Why can't you just use a good old fashioned manual choke cable in-cab attached to the DB-2 throttle lever with a stop limiter on the cable so you only "choke" it far enough to raise the idle to cold start RPM? You would eliminate CAS clearance issues, and probably would only need to possibly cut a slot in the throttle crank or and use your existing throttle/cruise cable bracket for the "choke" cable.
 
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Burning oil said:
never looked into this but did DB2 have a PTO and what did they do to raise idle?
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Oh. There are 2 separate devices on the DB2: 1 is an external solenoid that pushes on the throttle lever. This is what raises the idle speed. The other 1 is the internal solenoid that increases the timing advance. As I understand it, it does this by raising the internal pressure of the pump which affects the advance. When I had it apart it looked like it did this by partially blocking the fuel return. So I was thinking that you knew of a device that was plumbed into the return to raise the pressure. Seems plausible, but I don't think I'm the dude to design that.
 
Husker6.5 said:
Why can't you just use a good old fashioned manual choke cable in-cab attached to the DB-2 throttle lever with a stop limiter on the cable so you only "choke" it far enough to raise the idle to cold start RPM? You would eliminate CAS clearance issues, and probably would only need to possibly cut a slot in the throttle crank or and use your existing throttle/cruise cable bracket for the "choke" cable.
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My fast idle solenoid is still active, it's the cold advance that I don't have that I'd be interested in making it work again in case I have incomplete fuel burn issues at colder ambient temps. Raising the engine rpm didn't take care of my white smoke issue, only advancing the timing did.
 
It seems to work the other way around. So I believe with it removed, you are technically in "advanced mode."
"The housing pressure cold advance (HPCA) solenoid is one of three solenoids that affect the operation of the injection pump. The HPCA solenoid makes it easier to start a cold engine by reducing housing fuel pressure in the advance mechanism.

The HPCA solenoid is located under the fuel return outlet, under the pump housing cover. It is activated by the coolant temperature switch, which is mounted on the rear of the passenger side cylinder head. When coolant temperature is low the temperature switch is closed, energizing the HPCA solenoid (rear pump terminal connected with a green wire), which lifts the check ball off its seat in the return outlet. This reduces housing pressure to near zero, so that the transfer pump pressure behind the power advance piston can easily advance the cam ring."
 
79jasper said:
It seems to work the other way around. So I believe with it removed, you are technically in "advanced mode."
"The housing pressure cold advance (HPCA) solenoid is one of three solenoids that affect the operation of the injection pump. The HPCA solenoid makes it easier to start a cold engine by reducing housing fuel pressure in the advance mechanism.

The HPCA solenoid is located under the fuel return outlet, under the pump housing cover. It is activated by the coolant temperature switch, which is mounted on the rear of the passenger side cylinder head. When coolant temperature is low the temperature switch is closed, energizing the HPCA solenoid (rear pump terminal connected with a green wire), which lifts the check ball off its seat in the return outlet. This reduces housing pressure to near zero, so that the transfer pump pressure behind the power advance piston can easily advance the cam ring."
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Oh! Thank you for the correction Jasper. Hmmm...well that changes things..... I guess need to think about next steps if I need more advance.
 
On the 6.2 the HPCA sensor was at the rear of head. On 6.5 its in the stat crossover.
 
Burning oil said:
On the 6.2 the HPCA sensor was at the rear of head. On 6.5 its in the stat crossover.
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I mounted my sensor in the passenger side head. I tapped one of the block of plates and installed it there. That's interesting they moved it for the 6.5.
 
I did some more vids during lunch. I haven't watched them to analyze, but my butt dyno (which hasn't been calibrated in a while) said it was actually stronger at lower speeds. Also I'll be interested to really watch the rearview one - driving around it seems I'm making a little more smoke than before, but the truth will lie in the tale of the tape. I feel pretty good with the current state of the engine so I'm going to work on the transmission tuning now....I'm tired of it being a 3000rpm CVT at full throttle.

0-80 speedometer with +3* advance

0-80 EGT & Boost with +3* advance

rear view mirror with +3* advance
 
I'm thinking you could machine a block to house the HPCA in.
Of course you would have to re-time it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
Other than having a supercharger running positive displacement at idle, you're always going to have an ink cloud when you stomp on it from idle because of turbo lag. There you go, have your HX40 blow through a Paxton supercharger! You can be running 3 psi boost at idle, have near instant throttle response, and still have 28 psi on the top end! Yes, I know Gale Banks has a supercharger/turbocharger compound on a Duramax.
 
Husker6.5 said:
Other than having a supercharger running positive displacement at idle, you're always going to have an ink cloud when you stomp on it from idle because of turbo lag. There you go, have your HX40 blow through a Paxton supercharger! You can be running 3 psi boost at idle, have near instant throttle response, and still have 28 psi on the top end! Yes, I know Gale Banks has a supercharger/turbocharger compound on a Duramax.
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Oh yes, I've already thought about doing something silly with the M series Eaton supercharger off a 3800 just for some supplemental boost at low RPM, but I'm sure it's not worth the effort. And certainly, stomping it off the line isn't the way to drive it, it's just the easiest to duplicate so it seemed like the best to use for A-to-B testing. That video didn't turn out great but I do seem to be leaving a little more of a faint black trail behind me even after the turbo spools.....I don't mind it, it's just interesting.
 
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