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Going mechanical with a Moose Omega Marine IP

Burning oil said:
Are you going to put your Star Wars wrap on line from FFM to IP?
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Maybe just for you, Leroy. It is braided stainless though so it's already shiny in its own right - though that probably doesn't block heat much. Star Wars wrap....I like it!
 
SS FORCE said:
That a genius idea for the bolts. I was so sure with my luck I would have lost a bolt when I did my IP. luckily not but wishing I had thought of this myself. Can't wait too this all done up and running again.
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Thanks SS! Yeah when I did the pump last time, the thought of dropping a bolt kept me up at night until I thought of this idea.
 
Hink said:
Yup, much like Ferm mentioned in my "I'm cool" thread, buying AC Delco can get you cheap parts and the other way 'round as in your case. Working for O'Reilly, Autozone and NAPA over the years I remember that the suppliers to the factories will also package and sell to the parts houses.
You just have to look at the part before walking out the door!
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Oh yeah, I do remember reading that in your thread now that you memtion it. And yes, I do think you're cool.....though not as cool as you were before you got the thermostat thing figured out. :cool:
 
n8in8or said:
Oh yeah, I do remember reading that in your thread now that you memtion it. And yes, I do think you're cool.....though not as cool as you were before you got the thermostat thing figured out. :cool:
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Actually never really figured it out... the 195* got it back up to temp but never figured why the 180*was running so cool. But I sure learned a lot from the discussion!
 
I always stuck a chunk of broken ceramic speaker magnet inside a socket if I didn't want to loose a bolt or nut into some nether region of "can't reach it" or "have to spend 2 hours disassembly to get it". Also worked great for starting said bolt or nut, too.
 
Done for today. It's basically back together mechanically. Everything pretty much fit the way it was supposed to, but the fuel return line did need some adjusting to fit around the crossover on the driver's side. I also need to do some finessing of the intercooler lines around the throttle cables. Tomorrow will be cables/pedal, fuel system and electrical.

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n8in8or said:
Done for today. It's basically back together mechanically. Everything pretty much fit the way it was supposed to, but the fuel return line did need some adjusting to fit around the crossover on the driver's side. I also need to do some finessing of the intercooler lines around the throttle cables. Tomorrow will be cables/pedal, fuel system and electrical.

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You sir, are a rock star of the 6.5 kind.
 
Bracket updates are done. I made a bracket for mounting the Baldwin filter base and the new header/turbo brace. I cut the intake end off the old brace and made a new end to attach to the header flange. Then I welded them together at the appropriate angle. If something there breaks....then I have some REAL problems. Time to start doing cables.....

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Fuel system upgrades are done minus the gauge. The turbo brace is also installed. Still lots of tidying up to do, but that will happen once wiring is done. I have the nonfunctioning remote start out - that was a fun chore, NOT. The pedal install was super easy. I expected there to be a knock out plug in the firewall but it was just a soft plug! The hardest part there was trimming my firewall insulation so I could get the plug out. I also got the cruise module mounted. The factory screws for a gasser are self tapping so it made the install for that super easy too. Gonna eat some lunch now and then it's on to wiring. Lots of wiring....:(

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Burning oil said:
I noticed you have a scratch on your valve cover. Are you going to fix that? Judges will deduct points you know.
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Ha! I was just thinking that.

What is your source for your SS lines and AN fittings? I'd really like to start using that.
 
Hink said:
Ha! I was just thinking that.

What is your source for your SS lines and AN fittings? I'd really like to start using that.
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Summit Racing. Most of it was their house brand, but a couple pieces were either not offered by them or out of stock, so there is some Russell and some Aeroquip in here too. It was my first time doing AN fittings and it really wasn't too bad.
 
Not too much more to report. I talked with Baumann's technical support about the tach signal for the Quick 4 controller. The guy on the phone (his name was Kevin and he was SUPER knowledgable and SUPER helpful) told me that the tach signal is optional but it enables some neat features that they developed just for the Quick 4. So we talked about how I could use the existing crank sensor and came up with what I think is going to be a slick solution. I'll share those details when I do the wiring so I can add pictures to the details. So after the call I ran to the junkyard to get a pigtail to hook to the crank sensor. Oh by the way, the crank sensor has the same plug as the 93 TPS sensor, so you don't have to try to find a relatively rare pigtail for the TPS, you can instead use a crank sensor one that is on any 94-00 6.5 truck.

After that I started working on other electrical upgrades. I got tired of never having a good keyed 12V power supply available so I am adding a fused distribution block running off a relay so I'll always have an easy way to add switched & fused power when I want it. I'm going to add a second distribution block under the dash running off the same relay. The relay is rated at 150 amps continuous, so it won't be a problem.

I'm going to call it a day. More tomorrow.

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Just an fyi, the old Chrysler dual ballast resistor is meant to run a hall effect pickup. All the crank sensor needs is a ground, 12 v+, and a 5 volt reference that can be shorted. The dual ballast resistor had one side for the coil, and the other side was really high resistance for the 5v to a hall effect pickup. Hook 12v+ to one side of the high resistance side of the ballast, the other side of it to the crank sensor, and t in to that wire and you now have a fully functioning hall effect rpm sensor. Some people loop around both sides of the ballast just to play it safe with thecrank sensor. Or you can buy a 5 volt power supply, and a 10k ohm resistor should do the trick for the whortable 5 volt feed/signal. Just make sure the quick 4 can work with a low voltage signal if yougo that route.
 
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