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GMTD scan tech

@Rockabillyrat would you be able to elaborate for us on the above bulletin where it's talking about the distributor rotor being out of phase? any pictures to help visualize this also would be helpful. maybe this is something easily fixed without a full rebuild since this is something that wouldn't show up on a test bench. I'm assuming this would be an assembly mistake? I have been recently watching rebuild videos on these pumps trying to learn the inner workings.

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dbrannon79 said:
@Rockabillyrat would you be able to elaborate for us on the above bulletin where it's talking about the distributor rotor being out of phase? any pictures to help visualize this also would be helpful. maybe this is something easily fixed without a full rebuild since this is something that wouldn't show up on a test bench. I'm assuming this would be an assembly mistake? I have been recently watching rebuild videos on these pumps trying to learn the inner workings.

View attachment 90768
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Also found this. Both my pumps are 5521. It says the 5521pumps are for 00’,s . Mine should be an entirely new different pump number. Or am I missing something.
 
dbrannon79 said:
@Rockabillyrat would you be able to elaborate for us on the above bulletin where it's talking about the distributor rotor being out of phase? any pictures to help visualize this also would be helpful. maybe this is something easily fixed without a full rebuild since this is something that wouldn't show up on a test bench. I'm assuming this would be an assembly mistake? I have been recently watching rebuild videos on these pumps trying to learn the inner workings.

View attachment 90768
Click to expand...
Wouldn’t it be a good idea to send this to QS when they check the pump out?
 
Goose57 said:
Also found this. Both my pumps are 5521. It says the 5521pumps are for 00’,s . Mine should be an entirely new different pump number. Or am I missing something.
Click to expand...
My 95 has a 5521 pump on it

Goose57 said:
Wouldn’t it be a good idea to send this to QS when they check the pump out?
Click to expand...
Yes. I was asking Rockabillyrat on this wanting to get a visual on what the bulletin was talking about on the distributor rotor. if this is the issue on your pump, QS could possibly correct it easily if this is what he finds.
 
dbrannon79 said:
My 95 has a 5521 pump on it


Yes. I was asking Rockabillyrat on this wanting to get a visual on what the bulletin was talking about on the distributor rotor. if this is the issue on your pump, QS could possibly correct it easily if this is what he finds.
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Isn’t the rotor one of the parts discontinued. Maybe they ran out of the good ones. Yea I agree that’s why I probably will send it to him in case he hasn’t seen it before.
 
Yes the rotor is one of the parts discontinued, but it doesn't mean the one in your pump is bad. I was looking online at some teardowns and I think the it might just need to be clocked to the right position inside the pump. the rotor is timed internally for the injection event same as an engine is timed by the timing chain or gears. if it's off then the timing when it pushes fuel to a single injector will be at the wrong time.

apparently you can assemble the pump 90, 180 degrees off same as if you did a distributor on a gasser. it's lined up with a gear or something internally. like a cam gear is with the engine. a way to look at it is on some engines you can install a cam in virtually any position but when you stab the distributor one, two, or three teeth off or more, you will never get the timing right, but if it's close the engine will still run. it's a simple mistake that can happen to anyone. This would be why it won't show up on a test bench. the test bench doesn't look for timing but only for pressure and fuel amounts that are pushed out of the pump at the injectors.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Yes the rotor is one of the parts discontinued, but it doesn't mean the one in your pump is bad. I was looking online at some teardowns and I think the it might just need to be clocked to the right position inside the pump. the rotor is timed internally for the injection event same as an engine is timed by the timing chain or gears. if it's off then the timing when it pushes fuel to a single injector will be at the wrong time.

apparently you can assemble the pump 90, 180 degrees off same as if you did a distributor on a gasser. it's lined up with a gear or something internally. like a cam gear is with the engine. a way to look at it is on some engines you can install a cam in virtually any position but when you stab the distributor one, two, or three teeth off or more, you will never get the timing right, but if it's close the engine will still run. it's a simple mistake that can happen to anyone. This would be why it won't show up on a test bench. the test bench doesn't look for timing but only for pressure and fuel amounts that are pushed out of the pump at the injectors.
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If QS fails me I’ll open it up and check it. If I can’t fix it I’ll try to find a more reputable pump shop and have to buy one. And use this one for a core. At least I have a good running pump. Know of any pump shops that rebuild in house? Thanks buddy.
 
Rockabillyrat said:
Stanadyne makes nozzles for our injectors. Other that Bosch that the best replacement I've found. Delfi also makes nozzles, but I don't feel as confident in theirs. At least with Stanadyne I know they specialize in diesel fuel systems. Last time I looked they were around $50 a nozzle. But I've been too busy to keep up with the current market. I'm going to get back at it this winter, Hopefully my new shop will be ready next year and i can start putting more time into this stuff for you guys.
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Would I be able to tell if a rotor was install wrong on a newly installed remand DS4 IP if I opened it up? I believe you have to line up some dots or marks when installing the rotor.
I suspect I have a bad pump and also by reading the Stanadyne bulletin #502R Section 5 on the last page.
My truck is doing the same thing in the bulletin and kept getting cylinder balance codes on all 8 Cylinders.
I believe the rotor was installed wrong when rebuilt. I installed my original IP and it fixed the problem and no codes. I’m having warranty problems w/ the vendor and the remand pump I installed. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Here’s the bulletin:
 
If you opened it up, yes you could tell. But those pumps are a little trick to get apart.

There is a dot on the rotor and one the the input shaft that gets aligned. On a DB2 you air time them so you can confirm they are properly aligned. I don't believe you can do the same thing on a DS4. But I'm not as familiar with those since I'm not set up to rebuild them.
 
Goose57 said:
Would I be able to tell if a rotor was install wrong on a newly installed remand DS4 IP if I opened it up? I believe you have to line up some dots or marks when installing the rotor.
I suspect I have a bad pump and also by reading the Stanadyne bulletin #502R Section 5 on the last page.
My truck is doing the same thing in the bulletin and kept getting cylinder balance codes on all 8 Cylinders.
I believe the rotor was installed wrong when rebuilt. I installed my original IP and it fixed the problem and no codes. I’m having warranty problems w/ the vendor and the remand pump I installed. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Here’s the bulletin:
Click to expand...
You might give that guy in Glendive a call and quiz Him about that pump.
IDK if He would work on it but I do know He used to do a lot of pumps.
 
Thanks guys for the help. I believe I will send it back and have it checked out. I hope he has mercy on me about the warranty expiring. I did send him an e- mail w/ that Stanadyne bulletin and that I hoped he would work w/ me. Haven’t heard back. I’m going to e- mail him again and ask him what I need to do to ship the remand pump to him. I will ask him if he got a chance to look at the bulletin. I hope he takes it apart and finds the rotor out of phase before they put it on the test bench. Fingers crossed🙏🏻.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Tip: if you need to drain the fuel from the pump so not to make a mess in the box, you can remove the inlet or return port and turn it up-side down to drain. but then again I'd ask QS before doing that
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Yea I just e mailed him and asked how about to go about shipping the pump. Thanks for the good suggestions. I think I still have the rubber caps also. Thanks guys I let you know.
 
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