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GMTD scan tech

G

Goose57

Well-Known Member
Messages
226
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561
Location
Eureka Mo.
I’m getting close to firing up my Optimizer build finally. I have the GMTD scan basic but I need the GMTD scan tech. Can’t find it anywhere. I got my free GMTD scan basic from English Motors. I guess they closed up shop. I did see one on a web site and the amount to buy it said 1000SEK I think it was Swedish. Didn’t have any contact info Just 3 small blocks up in the corner it had a cart and took pay pal. I’m leary of buying it. Can’t find any GM Tech 1’s either just Tech 2’s. I installed the new IP pump with the solenoid straight up can’t get that lucky I'm going to need something to get the timing right. Help!!!
Thanks guys.
 
I bought the software through Leroy a while back, check and see if you can get it through him. Engh motors sends a passcode that may be marked as spam so keep an eye out for it if you buy through Leroy. I can dig through my email and see if I can find the old code, you can try using it as I have gone mechanical and don't need the software anymore.
 

CKO TECH 2

I've been on the fence for awhile, but I seen one of the clone Tech 2's with Candi module for $225+ shipping(came out to just under $268 after shipping and handling/customs). It came with a clone/chinese tech 2, data cable, 12 pin obd1, 16 pin obd2, a couple of other plugs for Saturn and I...
www.thetruckstop.us

They are still on ebay
 
www.ebay.com

Tech2 Scanner Candi Module for GM/SAAB/OPEL/SUZUKI/ISUZU/HOLDEN Free Shipping | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Tech2 Scanner Candi Module for GM/SAAB/OPEL/SUZUKI/ISUZU/HOLDEN Free Shipping at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com

Used ones available.
www.ebay.com

Tech 2 Scanner Z1090A | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Tech 2 Scanner Z1090A at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com

Not posting a ton - but they are out there as new CKO and used real ones.
 
Though the CKO tech 2 is far better option if you want to use it on other vehicles. just remember if getting from fleabay never try to update it from GM. it will brick as GM will flag it as a counterfeit and shut it down. I have read this from other forum sites.
 
Thanks guys for all the info. I misunderstood I thought the Tech 1 was the only scanner that would work on my truck. I don’t mind spending the money on a scanner. I have several different ones.
I might as well go with the scanner because I do not have a lap top only an iPad. Had to borrow my son in laws last time I used my GMTD scan basic. But after I get it I’m sure I’ll be back on here asking a lot of questions when trying to use it. I hope you guys don’t mind. Thanks again.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Though the CKO tech 2 is far better option if you want to use it on other vehicles. just remember if getting from fleabay never try to update it from GM. it will brick as GM will flag it as a counterfeit and shut it down. I have read this from other forum sites.
dbrannon79 said:
Though the CKO tech 2 is far better option if you want to use it on other vehicles. just remember if getting from fleabay never try to update it from GM. it will brick as GM will flag it as a counterfeit and shut it down. I have read this from other forum sites.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure if I will need to update it. I am on Medicare, getting pretty old lol. Maybe try to buy an real used one? But they usually don’t come with instructions and all the cables
Click to expand...
 
DieselAmateur said:
I bought the software through Leroy a while back, check and see if you can get it through him. Engh motors sends a passcode that may be marked as spam so keep an eye out for it if you buy through Leroy. I can dig through my email and see if I can find the old code, you can try using it as I have gone mechanical and don't need the software anymore.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply, I seen in your signature you have a cold air box out front. Was it very difficult to install. I have the same truck but with an automatic transmission. How do you like changing to the 3.75 gears? I got my Optimizer from Leroy’s last year and hope I don’t regret having TSPerformance bullet proof it.
 
dbrannon79 said:
on the ones from ebay, make sure you get all the adapters for various makes and models. one of the links Will posted I only saw the OBD2 connector for 96+ vehicles
Click to expand...
Thanks, I bought the top one in Wills post. It also offers free returns. It’s got a lot of cables. In the description it says OBD,s supported CAN,OBD,OBD2. Getting closer to firing this mother up I’m getting so excited. Any body know where this connector goes? The one not connected to anything lol.
 

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How small is that connector? the shape kinda looks like it's for the OPS (oil pressure sensor) the sensor should be located in the valley way in the back over on the captains side head. that sensor also controls your lift pump. if you don't have a relay added to that circuit, having all the wiring out is a great time to get r done. Leroy sells a complete harness upgrade for that which will save your OPS from burning out.
 
Thanks I was just coming back on here to say never mind. I feel so stupid I put an oil pressure gauge on the end of the hose the OPS goes too duh. Yes I already have an upgraded lift pump relay and harness . I used an old pump drive I modified to prime the motor to fill up the new oil lines and the new cooler. Thanks again. I imagine I’ll be back on here soon.
 
@Goose57 sorry for the late reply, been out of town and offline

I haven't had any time to run the truck with the front mount intercooler (long story involving a bad IP that I won't get into here) but given that my power goals require having an intercooler I have no doubt I'll be happy with the setup. The lack of an intercooler is one of the many flaws of this engine in my opinion especially given how heat kills this platform and an intercooler has been shown in many examples to lower EGT by a hundred degrees or more...

I hope the engine works out for you, it's been sadly documented too many times how out of balance these engines are on top of other quality control issues. Understand finances limiting having the engine built up so best advice is to make sure the balancer and crank pulley have good rubber, don't baby the engine during break in period to set the rings and keep engine temps cool. I'd also start the new engine with a bigger better flowing turbo. Share a video when you fire it up for the first time!
 
DieselAmateur said:
IMG_0265.jpeg@Goose57 sorry for the late reply, been out of town and offline

I haven't had any time to run the truck with the front mount intercooler (long story involving a bad IP that I won't get into here) but given that my power goals require having an intercooler I have no doubt I'll be happy with the setup. The lack of an intercooler is one of the many flaws of this engine in my opinion especially given how heat kills this platform and an intercooler has been shown in many examples to lower EGT by a hundred degrees or more...

I hope the engine works out for you, it's been sadly documented too many times how out of balance these engines are on top of other quality control issues. Understand finances limiting having the engine built up so best advice is to make sure the balancer and crank pulley have good rubber, don't baby the engine during break in period to set the rings and keep engine temps cool. I'd also start the new engine with a bigger better flowing turbo. Share a video when you fire it up for the first time!
Click to expand...
No worries yea I’m going to look into an inter cooler after I get my Optimizer started and sorted out. I hope you don’t have to much trouble sorting out your IP. I’m aware of how heat kills these engines only after getting on these fourms I’m an old gasoline mechanic this is my first diesel. My original gm motor shot craps at 140,000 miles. Coolant crack in the #8 cylinder wall. When pulling the motor I noticed the two rear coolant block off plates at the rear of the motor. I’m surprised nobody in the aftermarket world offered some kind of remedy using those block of ports to address heat problems on these engines.
Yes I hope I don’t regret having this motor bulletproofed by TSP. I have installed an oversized aluminum rad. higher flow WP. larger cooling fan. Also installed a fluid damper and billet pulley from Leroy’s I already had 4” open exhaust on it. Didn’t use the original style turbo and upgraded to a GM8. I wasn’t sure how big I could go without damaging the motor. Yes I’ll have to look into (on here of course 💁) what’s the best way to break this motor in. Already got good info (on here) break in oil changes. Yea once I get the motor started and sorted out I definitely will post videos. Just got a CKO Tech 2 off eBay. Already having problems with the self test and possibly a bad DLC loop back adapter included w/the scanner. I did crank the motor over to test the starter and flywheel interface. I didn’t want any problems on start up. I did throw the Tech2 on the truck and got a sxxt load of DTC,s. Probably have a lot of trouble shooting to do. Enough of my babbling, sorry for the long post. Thanks.
 
More than one school of thought on the process of breaking in a new motor and I'm not going to argue one over the other. Do what you think is best.
FWIW, I broke in my motor driving it like I had a raw egg between my foot and the throttle pedal for the first 1000. Long runs I’d vary speeds by 5mph up and down every 15 min. Power/responsiveness improved gradually and came on noticeably around the 1100 mile mark while climbing over Cabbage Patch (I-84, Oregon). When the heads came off (long story) at 25k miles, the cylinder wall cross hatching still looked almost new.
 
As I said I bought a CKO Tech2 off e bay with free return shipping. I’m having trouble with. Those familiar with it. It’s the P.O.S.T. test and the Self test failing. Your suppose to run these before hooking up the scanner to the vehicle. Like I said before I put it on my truck and it pulled a bunch of codes. I plugged my GM tester in the one you have to count lights and it matches the same bunch of codes the Tech2 pulled. It seems to be working all the keys on the key pad work except the shift key. Also it says it doesn’t recognize the loop back adaptor (it’s needed to hook up to a PC) when it’s plugged in during the self test. I also think I’m going to have trouble returning it. I started a return on eBay and it says I have to pay for shipping even though the listing said free return shipping. I tried to pull up the original listing and it was removed for an eBay violation. I thought to myself here we go. But I messaged the seller in China and he did respond back. He said there is a pre- paid return label on the eBay site and there isn’t. Here we go again. I did talk to an e bay agent on the phone and since the return was already started and there is no return label generated the seller will have to send me a return label through e bay messages. Fingers crossed. Here we go again. I just want to start up my truck 😂 I guess I can troubleshoot the shit load of codes. I have til Sept.30th before I can’t return it. Thanks guys for listing to me rant.
 
dbrannon79 said:
List the codes and we can help with that part
Click to expand...
Thanks, I forgot the PDM it’s behind the bumper and The OPS I have an oil pressure gauge on the hose used it for priming . I just cranked the motor over a little to check the starter. I have them written down. I did clear them and put the scanner back on just w/ Key on and a new dtc 0017 came up and nothing else. I believe it said High resolution circuit. I’m going back and put the PDM and the OPS back on and check all the sensors for referance volts and clear dtc 0017. And recheck with key on. If it doesn’t come back maybe I’ll put some fuel in it crank her over. I did see a good write up in our Sticky’s about bleeding the air out of the fuel system. I have a new fuel tank and lines. I guess I should rig up something to shut the intake air off in case the motor goes crazy 🤪
 
Tons of people did mess with the rear cooling ports. Tons of problems.
Gm tried as well and did every conceivable combo and return location including reverse flows. It shifts the problem to other parts of the cylinders and or heads.
After spending many millions of dollars they came up with the balanced flow waterpump & system. The current pump is the 4th version. GM is all about the simple fix for cost reasons- if the “rear head cooling kits” worked - they would have done it . I worked for the company that was contracted out to GM in the process when they found the solution. The new pump, dual stat crossover with bypass restrictor fitting to equal out the flow and limit volume returning to the engine while minimizing cavitation in the pump. A full bypass thermostat is better but they already had the dual in manufacture mode so stayed with it. Heavy RVs and emergency generators got the blockoff crossovers.

Just type balanced flow in the search and you can read for weeks to learn it all.
 
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