• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

GMT 800 Brake Conversion > Silverado HD 2500

Big T said:
Back in the day I looked at the GMT-400 disc brake conversion kits and they were priced at $580. I see they are now over $1200. My entire axle cost me $260 harvested from a Pick-A-Part boneyard and that was complete with rotors, calibers and pads. The spring and snubber perches, plus the welding added $100. Just ordered a parking brake cable equalizer for $15 including taxes and shipping. Way cheaper than any conversion kit I priced.
Click to expand...

Yea the kit was a bit less back when I purchased also.
 
Will L. said:
BBB
Bought Before Bidenflation.
Click to expand...
So LKQ Pick-A-Part has now started charging separately for any fasteners and integrated pieces of equipment. Example: when I harvested the GMT-800 axle with disc brakes, I was charged just for the axle. Now they would charge for the disc brakes, parking brake cables, etc.

This past weekend I honestly revealed the hardware for the u-joints on the drive shaft I harvested. They said I needed to go back and pay for those. I bitched they had not done that before, but no go. That said, I own LKQ stock, so it get back in the form of dividends and share price appreciation.
IMG_3958.png
 
Dustin Zynda said:
I've done a few of these now and I've found the easiest and best way (maybe not cheapest) is buying new moog lifetime lower control arms gmt800. They already have new bushings and ball joint, you do not have to ream anything. Gmt400 upper control arms then install kryptonite 6292 ball joints. The outer 2 holes line up, tack weld the rear then drill and bolt.
Kryptonite also makes tierods that are beefy and work great with gmt800 spindle to gmt400 center link.
Click to expand...
Damn that is pretty.
 
Question- apologies if it's already been covered here-

Will the GMT400 wheel hub/ bearing assembly bolt into the GMT800 knuckle? And will the 800 series rotor slide over the hub without issue? I'm doing this conversion first to a '93 which didn't have ABS sensors.

I know the 800 rotors slide over the hubs while the 400 rotor was held in from the backside by the studs, so several variables to consider.
 
Dustin Zynda said:
I've done a few of these now and I've found the easiest and best way (maybe not cheapest) is buying new moog lifetime lower control arms gmt800. They already have new bushings and ball joint, you do not have to ream anything. Gmt400 upper control arms then install kryptonite 6292 ball joints. The outer 2 holes line up, tack weld the rear then drill and bolt.
Kryptonite also makes tierods that are beefy and work great with gmt800 spindle to gmt400 center link.
Click to expand...
What is the Kryptonite part number for the tie rod ends that fit GMT800 Spindle and GMT400 center link?
 
I need a new set of knuckles because I reemed too deep for the tie rods. There is a 2011 HD at an LKQ Pik a Part yard and they have a 50% off sale this weekend. Would the knuckles from a 2011 HD work as replacements?
 
the best way i have found to check part fitment is to look them up on RA. even on some of the auto parts sites, see if the part numbers are the same. there are even times where the part numbers are different, but it's only due to placement on things like speed sensors or other mounting point. if the knuckle look the same, check the ball joints and see if they are the same. 9 times out of 10 if the joints are the same, then it'll work.

optional: can you use a mig, build up some material in the hole, then re-ream them? depending on how much you took out, getting some stainless shim material and cut a shim to put in there might also do the job too!
 
dbrannon79 said:
the best way i have found to check part fitment is to look them up on RA. even on some of the auto parts sites, see if the part numbers are the same. there are even times where the part numbers are different, but it's only due to placement on things like speed sensors or other mounting point. if the knuckle look the same, check the ball joints and see if they are the same. 9 times out of 10 if the joints are the same, then it'll work.

optional: can you use a mig, build up some material in the hole, then re-ream them? depending on how much you took out, getting some stainless shim material and cut a shim to put in there might also do the job too!
Click to expand...
For $20 per knuckle, I’ll get replacements and ream them.
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
TSM either changed names or sold out....

www.rusticdiscbrakes.com

Disc Brake Conversion Kits | Rustic Disc Brakes

Rustic Disc Brakes sells disc brake conversions, pinion and transfer case brakes for cars and trucks.
www.rusticdiscbrakes.com www.rusticdiscbrakes.com
Click to expand...
I checked their product line.
Some mighty nice stuff.
I was looking at a conversion for the 59 Dodge W100 but they list only two wheel drive applications for Chrysler products.
My step son, 1965 GMC 1/2 ton.
He stayed with the drum brakes but converted to a power brake booster.
IDK where He got the vacuum booster and master cylinder, suppose to be matched set from.
He could not get any brake pedal after gravity bleeding the brakes.
He calls, I go.
Checked out a couple things for trouble shooting, then, unbolted the master cylinder, thinking the push rod was not allowing the piston to return fully back to the refill position.
Nope, no tension there when the bolts is off and the maste placed against the booster, fit right up with no gap.
An adjustment bolt and lock nut, extended the bolt as far as it would go, still no touch to the MC piston.
Had him push down the brake pedal, did some measurements: long long way off.
Went to my house, dug through the longest metric bolts of that size and thread pitch and screwed that into the booster rod, adjusted it so that the rod held the master just off the booster then screwed the bolt in unitil the master just set against the booster.
Bolted it all back together then He had brakes.
What a sweet and solid old truck. Inline six. Someone had pulled the V 6 and installed this I six. He scrounged the country side and somewhere come up with a V-6, condition unknown.
I think someday He will go through that V-6 and stuff it into that old GMC.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top