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Glowplugs...So I'm Screwed Aren't I?

Acetone and ATF mix. Soak for several days and see if you can get a stud extractor in there. Don't run it

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
I've already used almost 1/2 a can of PB on it, and when I spray it, I can see the Rust washing away, so it's doing something.

I knew it was gonna be bad, and I shoulda just left it alone when the Stud broke off with the Nut when I was trying to undo the Electrical Lead from the GP.

I shined a Light into the hole on the GP and can't see through it. I can still see the other end that broke off, so it shouldn't have fallen into the Cylinder.
 
If the pb blaster is removing rust, keep using it until you see it not washing down anymore, then switch to the acetone / atf mix.

When fighting glowplugs on older diesels, I have taken the hose off my mig welder bottle and set it up to blow co2 onto the plug to cool it causing shrinking to help. Nitrogen works better.
 
Im not familar with those, the threaded part is still in the head?? If yes I wonder if you could get a compression fitting on the shaft portion real tight? It would act like the hex head and you might could get a socket on it to remove it??
I would use a steel compression fitting not brass.
 
Well, still screwed on this one.

Easy Outs...nothing

Flute Extractors...nothing

Weld on a Bolt...nothing

Weld on a Nut...nothing

Hit it with Heat...nothing

Freeze it...nothing

Gonna try Drilling it out tomorrow.
 
Try warming the engine to full OP temp not driving it. Retry the nut/bolt weld deal. Let the weld cool to engine temp before using torque. Try using a 3/8 impact at the lowest setting. Doubt the tip will fall into the engine. Only the last 1/2" is exposed to the piston. The business end is pressed in the GP body.
 
Yep, it's really kicking our ass. Used a Propane Torch on it and nothing.

So needless to say, if anymore GP's go out, I'm just gonna turn off the CEL with EFI and not touch them.
 
On my '84 6.2, what happened to me was the glow plugs unscrewed ok, but tips on 2 of 'em were 'swollen' and would not come out. The 2 right side ones buried next to the heater core. Where there is NO room. I ended up having to pull the motor to remove them.
 
cornemuse said:
On my '84 6.2, what happened to me was the glow plugs unscrewed ok, but tips on 2 of 'em were 'swollen' and would not come out. The 2 right side ones buried next to the heater core. Where there is NO room. I ended up having to pull the motor to remove them.
Click to expand...

Even though its a different engine than OP has I had the same problem as you. I now offer a tool to pull the GPs without removing heads/engine.
4th item down on this page http://www.leroydiesel.com/Accessories.html
 
I'm not there to see the rust washing away(flakes?) but PB blaster is rust colored, so you may just be seeing the PB...unless you are seeing particles...

I'm also unsure of Dmax's glowplugs not swelling...

I had my glowplug tip break/corrode or burn off and get caught in a valve seat, burning a hole through the valve in the weak spot...... causing my first motor swap...now I didn't know what the problem was, but with failing injectors and not knowing what my internal damage was, I put a motor from a wrecked truck with good injectors in it for the price of an injector job and solved the unknown mechanical issue...could it have swollen off? maybe...
 
What I've read is the way the hole is tapered on the inside allows carbon to build up into the last thread.

I know that with the electrolysis occurring between the different metals adding carbon will begin a binding element on a molecular level. In theory ran long enough it would create a different alloy.

Then again, something's just get stuck.
 
There was def a Darker "Stream" in the PB when I was Spraying around the Threads.

It's to the point now, that the stream isn't there anymore when I spray it, so I must have been washing something away.

I'm hitting it now with some kind of Buildup "Buster" that was by the Carb Cleaner in Napa.
 
I cant remember the details, but there was some kind of 12 volt dc in water baking soda mix to break down corrosion and rust. Sound famialr anyone? I know you could soak small parts in the mix or electrify the water with positive and ground to the part you pour it on.

Too many years ago...(need a bearded emoticon walking with a cane)

If you could find out the exact metallurgy of the head and gp, a proper acid could be applied to not damage the head and make it much easier.
 
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