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Glowplugs...So I'm Screwed Aren't I?

BTW, I found that a product called "Aerokroil" from Kano Labs (via mail order) works quite well... substantially better than PB Blaster, which I have also used.

-Rob :)
 
I'm having trouble envisioning how this worked. If you used the 11/32" bit to drill out the glow plug body completely, won't the remnants of the glow plug drop into the engine?

I don't understand.

-Rob :)

No, you only drill juuust past the Threads...so that the part of the GP that is below the Threads is now "Milled" off by the Drill Bit. One you do that, it is now loose in the GP "Channel" and you can grab it and pull it out. No metal Shavings get into the Engine because the part of the GP that is in the Head prevents that. With the correct Drill Bit, the shavings are quite big as well. Go Slow with the Speed, not Fast.
 
Please God, don't let me have any issue with my glow plugs...I haven't hit the 500k mark yet.
 
Piece of cake to pull out unless you live on Long Island.

Sent from my SCH-I535
Not always. Had a friend of mine at a side shop call me the other day about a 06 truck that has never left Florida, and never been on the beach with a froze in broke off glow plug. Told him to buy some AEROKROIL and start soaking it and hope for the best.
 
I have one or two GP's out on the left bank. Now that I have rebuilt the Allison and installed the SunCoast 1056 TC, I can possibly replace them before it gets cool (Cold to me but, for Ya'll that live in the really cold area's like Bison it would only be cool). I will start with the ones that are bad. If not difficulties I will replace all on that side.
 
Look at the GP replacement thread where a couple of years ago I did the left bank. I posted pics of the tools I used Barry. Should be helpful to get you going. Do all at the same time. At $13 each it's worth it. No tax and free shipping from Amz.
Soak 'em real good as soon as the fender liner is pulled back with your favorite panther piss while gathering tools. And take your time. If 8 winters didn't rust mine in like a weld then your's should be good to go.
 
Of course I can't get my Steering Shaft to move so I can get it out to get to #4.

If it's not one thing, it's another.

Oh yea...now my Driver Side Door isn't Unlocking with the rest of the Doors. Gotta hit the Button a few times.

Anyone wanna buy a Low Mile Duramax?!
 
Of course I can't get my Steering Shaft to move so I can get it out to get to #4.

If it's not one thing, it's another.

Oh yea...now my Driver Side Door isn't Unlocking with the rest of the Doors. Gotta hit the Button a few times.

Anyone wanna buy a Low Mile Duramax?!

Tools in the thread about it for doing the left bank



Sent from my SCH-I535
 
Of course I can't get my Steering Shaft to move so I can get it out to get to #4.

If it's not one thing, it's another.

Oh yea...now my Driver Side Door isn't Unlocking with the rest of the Doors. Gotta hit the Button a few times.

Anyone wanna buy a Low Mile Duramax?!
My son has a 08 DMax and he is having issues with the door locks as well
 
Guys,

Yesterday the check engine light came on and this morning when I started the truck the "wait to start light" stayed on. Would that be a sign of a bad glow plug? The truck has right at 60,000 miles on it right now, is that a little early for glow plugs to go bad?

I do not have any scan tools to check for the codes so I am thinking glow plugs since the wait to start light stayed on.

If a bad glow plug is the problem would it hurt the truck to run it just a short distance until I can get it repaired? The truck starts just fine and runs like normal other than the lights.

I know at one time a read some horror stories about the tip of the glow plug burning off and falling into the engine. Was there anything to that?

Thanks,
 
Likely a GP.
Just stop at an auto zone and get the codes read. If it's a gp don't worry about it until you get a chance to change it out. It's best to do an entire side at the same time for convenience sake. It's not at all likely to fall into a cylinder.

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
Likely a GP.
Just stop at an auto zone and get the codes read. If it's a gp don't worry about it until you get a chance to change it out. It's best to do an entire side at the same time for convenience sake. It's not at all likely to fall into a cylinder.

Sent from my SCH-I535

Thanks Mike for your quick response.
 
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