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glow plug for 6.2/ 6.5

floyd400 said:
Also, I haven't tried jump starting the truck. Maybe a previous owner did at some point, who knows. Guy in my apartment said I should use either, I said hell no, not on my diesel!! haha. I cleaned up all the grounds and battery connections. I feel like it's not turning over fast enough, but with new fully charged batteries the only things that could be causing that are shitty cables or a worn out starter. My cables aren't the greatest and I plan on making new ones with top post terminals and all in the biggest gauge I can get but it's just not in the cards at the moment. I'm going to try to get ahold of a long extension cable and plug in my block heater.
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Get them at Rock Auto, we have a discount code on here for 5% off in the deals section. It's been a cold winter, Eh? AC Delco 60G's work in a bind.

The 10 HP starter can loose 1-2 of the 4 brushes and still spin the engine, but, at a slower RPM. You need 100 RPM minimum cold and 150 RPM hot to start. If it sounds like it's cranking slow, it is! Bad battery, bad battery cable from internal corrosion, bad ground, loose connection, or 1/2 bad starter. I love the Powermaster 9052 starter.

This is what a 6.5 sounds like at proper cranking speed with a Powermaster. And the hit and miss is from sticking bad injectors:


 
Floyd, if you think your cables aren't the greatest, then they likely are actually worse than you think they are. The stock cables are undersized, the stock side mount battery connectors suck. You don't have to convert to top post when you get new cables, just use the stud method on the side mount with good clean connections and you'll be fine.

These trucks need decent cranking speed to start. I'm betting that your cable connections are not good, even if you cleaned them up they may not be connecting solidly. Since you are replacing them anyway peel away the insulation from the cable ends at the battery so you are sure you have a firm connection, use a washer to fill the gap if needed. Make sure the starter connections are clean and tight, and of course remove and clean up the main engine ground.
 
Update on my problem, I think now it's not a GP issue but a cable or starter problem. It's gotten worse and now The engine barely turns over at all now, here's a quick vid:
 
This is the mess the PO left me with, starter cable, battery crossover cable and alternator wire join together on the top post, just looks poor to me and wondering how to go about fixing it. I replaced the battery ground on the drivers side battery with 2 gauge cable because it was the worst of the cables, no difference.
 

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Batteries died/frozen from no charging? That's an awfully small charge wire to the alt if it's the red one. Be careful with frozen batteries as they can explode. Take them inside to warm up for at least 12 hours. Or exchange them is safer.
 
WarWagon said:
Batteries died/frozen from no charging? That's an awfully small charge wire to the alt if it's the red one. Be careful with frozen batteries as they can explode. Take them inside to warm up for at least 12 hours. Or exchange them is safer.
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Batteries are less than a week old, 800CCA. I brought them inside and trickle charged them both, no change. Interesting thing I've noticed is that when hooking up the batteries, I don't get any sparking at the terminals which I think is unusual. Does that mean anything?
 
Well a gas engine would start spinning that slow, but, a diesel isn't going to. <-- That's a period.

New parts don't mean good parts. Test both batteries. So what if they are brand new - you got a slow spinning engine so start over with troubleshooting and NOTHING gets a free pass. If you are happy with their performance and have checked the cables you are at replace the starter.

Quick and dirty is to spin the engine like that one more time and check for hot spots in the battery cables or at the connections. If you have a digital voltmeter make sure you have 9v or more at the small ignition solenoid wire and 11V or more at the big battery connection at the starter while cranking. Ground is the engine block for this test. Unplug the glow plug controller for this test.

If you have good voltage at the starter replace the starter as one or more brushes, field coils, etc. in it are bad. Check for the odd chance it's loose first.

Make sure you put the rear bracket on the back of the starter when you swap it out. Otherwise it kicks out and breaks the corner of the block off.
 
I'm going to disagree with warwagon, replace those cables AND the starter. That hacked up crap needs to go. If the truck did run and start right, the alternator won't be ale to keep the batts up, and you might get free smoke from the alt at the same time.

You've heard sometimes you have to spend $ to make$?

Well sometimes you have to spend $ to keep from spending boatloads of $.
 
You just need to put those cables into ring connectors, one for each cable.
Replace the one that is insufficient.
Either crimp them or solder them or tin the end and crimp them.
Then get a terminal that can accept ring connector like the marine battery terminal for top post and get brass side post terminal and split them up.
Get at least a 2 gauge wire from battery to alt.
The one going to the fuse box can be replaced with a part store cable (4 gauge).

I am surprised you changed the batteries and did not see that?
 
Thanks guys, I really appreciate the help. I want to spend money and get this fixed, no issue there. The issue is that the truck is in an apartment parking lot and I don't have a crimper or multimeter or any of that jazz, just two tool boxes full of wrenches, socket sets and other misc. tools. Walking to work and school and anywhere else I need to go is getting old lol I'm working on figuring out what to do, I gotta kick this things ass before it kicks mine!
 
Fix or replace the cables, kinda unfair of me to say that off the 1 pic. I just like to fix things and move on with no future wondering of "could the cables be messing up again?".

Remove the starter and go get it tested. Or order a powermaster and if the old one is good after testing you have a spare for when the powermaster goes bad in 7 years.

You have to have the crank speed fast enough or it will never start regardless of glow plugs.

If you find your batteries are low do not turn on key to heat glow plugs while charger is on. Some high end battery chargers won't hurt the gp , most will. If you have to remove batteries and charge next to your apartment out of the truck do it. Just remember charging batteries out gas toxic and flammable fumes.

Buy a multimeter. If you are going to fix your truck instead of paying a mechanic, you need one. Later buy a nice fluke. For now: http://m.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=Digital+multi+meter

For regular wiring (not batt cables): http://www.toolbarn.com/channellock...7GdLR7eI8Nzv7OFG3vWxoC7HDw_wcB&ad=40667862494

Do not buy cheap stripper or crimper, they will fail you.

Once it turns over like it should let's see another video.
 
WarWagon said:
Batteries died/frozen from no charging? That's an awfully small charge wire to the alt if it's the red one. Be careful with frozen batteries as they can explode. Take them inside to warm up for at least 12 hours. Or exchange them is safer.
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His sig says it's an 84, so a 10 gauge wire is all GM put in from the factory. That truck only used a GM 10 or 12 SI alternator capable of a whopping 63 amps in stock form, and only about 25 at idle.
 
Thanks for the info Ferm, I didn't know that. I went ahead and bought a 4 gauge cable to replace it anyway though. I'm checking all the parts stores in town for a starter and it seems like they only carry the gear reduction starter, mine is most likely a DD and would need a different bracket if I used the GR starter. I did notice the bracket is installed on my truck, but it and the wiring looks like it won't be easy to get to with the axle and all in my way. I'll get it done though, it's in the 50's today so now's my chance.
 
For the starter bracket, there is measurements here somewhere to make from a scrap piece of 1"angle iron. Or http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/131667621522?ul_noapp=true&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-117182-37290-0%2F2%3Fmtid%3D1588%26kwid%3D1%26crlp%3D53601919689_324272%26itemid%3D131667621522%26targetid%3D154774709769%26rpc%3D0.06%26rpc_upld_id%3D63606%26device%3Dm%26mpre%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fulk%252Fitm%252Flike%252F131667621522%253Flpid%253D82%2526chn%253Dps%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D1022635%26poi%3D9030795%26campaignid%3D239125209%26adgroupid%3D14978428809%26rlsatarget%3Dpla-154774709769%26gclid%3DCj0KEQiAl5u2BRC6yszC1_75v5wBEiQAD-hdz7HBThvcIuZIV9P7uBcMaOe94bgu-wx2I-8-3RV4TvUaAm2o8P8HAQ%26srcrot%3D711-117182-37290-0%26rvr_id%3D984641888897&chn=ps&lpid=82
That was first Google found, there is better pricing out there with 5 minutes of looking.

Get rid of the boat anchor, you'll be much happier. The gear reduction design is like lightbulb to a candle. There's a reason almost all diesels use it now. My hummer came with one that's worse than yours.

Second find: http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/products/Chevrolet/BRACKET-Starter-Motor/2990452/23502557.html
 
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Same bracket for both starters IMO. If not it's $19 on ebay or less the PN is in the parts reference thread. You do not need a direct drive starter as a gear drive will do the job and is lots lighter. Be careful with the heavy old starter as it will pin your hand under it to the frame. This is a heavy 10HP starter NOT a light 350 starter!!!

Order a Powermaster via mail order Jegs etc. and it's just as fast as slow parts stores.
 
WarWagon said:
Same bracket for both starters IMO. If not it's $19 on ebay or less the PN is in the parts reference thread. You do not need a direct drive starter as a gear drive will do the job and is lots lighter. Be careful with the heavy old starter as it will pin your hand under it to the frame. This is a heavy 10HP starter NOT a light 350 starter!!!

Order a Powermaster via mail order Jegs etc. and it's just as fast as slow parts stores.
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I can use the same bracket for both types of starters? I just finished getting the old starter out, you have to unbolt and remove the bump stop from the frame to have room to slide the starter out, found that out the hard way haha. Once it's out of the way though there is plenty of room to get at everything. Only thing I noticed that's odd is that there were two shims on the starter. I know from past experience that shims are a no no on these diesel starters and the starter even has "NO SHIM" cast into it, just like the Powermaster on my 6.5 did. I wouldn't mind getting this starter rebuilt honestly.
 
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