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Getting ready to start my project !!!

Anything other than exhaust that I paint with aluminum paint a put a couple coats of clear engine paint on. The clear is much easier to keep clean than just the aluminum. The aluminum dulls after a while anyhow.
 
Got a few more things done..

A few pics of the mains and the truck pick up tube.
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With the oil pan installed.

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The absolute best part... The disaster I was left with under the hood of my truck from the last person that worked on it.. What a damn mess.

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I've made some more progress since these pics, I will try to get them posted maybe tomorrow.

Mike
 
Wow just looking at it again, the guy took the heads off without pulling the rad ? Did he atleast drain the coolant ??

Where's some results....I'll next in line for that IP...
 
Hey guys.. Just have been busy workin quite a few hrs lately in this hot weather we've been having.. Been really drained and not getting too much done. I have gotten a few things done though, and have been really contemplating going out and start unbolting the engine here this week.

Latest pics of what little I've gotten done.
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However, I do have a few more goodies on order..

From SS diesel:
Instant heat glow plugs, glow controller, block heater.

From Racedaymechanic:
Glow wire harness, battery cables.

Summit:
Hayden 2886 fan clutch.

I also have gotten a hold of a member over at the "Place" about helping me set up a HE351VE Turbo.. Just looking into that so far.

Here in another week I'm gonna order some fancy oil cooler lines from PMDcable, maybe some Kodiak door handles, and locally a brand new hd aluminum radiator, lower engine mounts.

Mike
 
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I wouldn't buy anything from SS diesel. His glow plugs don't work any better and will not last even 1 year. All the items you have listed from there can be bought at NAPA. I'd put in 2 frost plug heaters. One on each side of the block. Very fast warm up or a spare if one craps out. You will need to make a custom starter brace to clear the heater on the passenger side.

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Will the hummer pan clear if a lift is installed ??

I plan on putting a 4" lift in this dually after the engine is in and running good. I know the front diff is dropped a few inches, so I was curious if the Hummer pan would then clear ?
 
I don't know if my 93 has a 4 or 6 inch but I can tell you I could fit anything in there. I can actually pull my oil pan in 5 mins like OBS trucks. The lift makes the truck Sooooo easy to work on. It should be mandatory...:D.
As far as glow just get duratherms from Rock Auto. 60$.
AFAIK RCD suspension and Pro Comp are the only ones who even make a lift for 3500s. You will need to have a custom made crossover. It cost me 225$ to have one made but since they could not mandrel bend it I had it done out of 2 1/2 inch. Pics in my 93 what to do with it thread. Other than that pretty straight forward.
I have to do motormounts on myburb and I'm thinking about sending it out because it looks like such a whore...but on my 93 with the lift it would take probably an hour....Definitely lift it !!:agreed:
You can lose the 4x4 oil adaptor too.
 
Received a few goodies yesterday...

Glow plugs, controller, block heater.
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Fancy ass glow wire harness, battery cables from Bruce "Racedaymechanic".. Top Notch stuff !!!
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I've been doing some wrenching finally, just about ready to get the old block out... It's hard to come up with the ambition sometimes after working all day. However, Summit sent me a few more goodies a few days ago...

Hayden 2886 fan clutch.
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Energy suspension motor mount inserts and trans mount.
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Aluminum radiator to replace the old brass / copper 4 core.
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Have a feeling you'll find the Brass and Copper radiator to be built better. The aluminum core/plastic tank rads are throwaways. The copper/brass can be repaired 90% of the time. I wouldn't run a plastic/aluminum in place of a Copper/Brass rad.

Not to mention soldered on tanks on the copper/brass rad versus crimped on tanks on the plastic/aluminum rad.

Build quality isn't what it used to be. Everything's "throw-away" now.
 
I agree about the throw away.. but the only problem I've ever had with aluminum / plastic rads were do to having dexcool in them for a long time. My experience with dexcool is that plastic components harden / get brittle, crack and fail. Look at all the failed intake gaskets on the vortec 4.3's / 5.7's.

Aluminum cools better then the brass / copper too.
 
Oooooooo....shiny parts.......

You're making me want to spend money on my truck again.......

I've been eyeballing those batt cables for a while now.....


Must resist, must resist...........truck has to prove itself worthy again.........besides, lots of work to do with the "intercooler project" underway......;)
 
I think I settled the issue of Copper vs Aluminum pretty good...:suicide:
BTW as far as the lift...I have been looking into this alot more lately and the Pro Comp is 1900$ just for the kit....ORU makes a Straight axle conversion for 800$...Then if you can find a Ford Diff and Crossover steering, you ain't that far off. I may go that route next time and lose the IFS junk for good. Most guys use a Ford front axles for the drivers side TC but an NP208 from a CUCV AFAIK bolts up to the 4l80e/NV4500 and a Chevy front end is way easier to find and even with the cost of the TC probably still cheaper than a Ford one...I may go that route after I confirm all this as fact..
 
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