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Fuel To injectors, still no start

Use some clear tubing (temporarily). You can see air bubbles. We did this and found a faulty mechanical lift pump. Still pumped fuel didn't leak any externally just let air in.
 
Jason63 said:
yes the one from filter to t, i think i can get it with a clamp, its just on the end, the output line from the fliter housing goes to the vertical nozzle on IP correct? the other one is tilted toward the front and goes to return line right?
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Routing is from the filter mgr drain port fitting under intake to the valve at front center of engine, the outlet of the valve free drains and is connected to nothing.
 
ak diesel driver said:
Use some clear tubing (temporarily). You can see air bubbles. We did this and found a faulty mechanical lift pump. Still pumped fuel didn't leak any externally just let air in.
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Good tip but with electric lift pump it's pretty easy to find leaks of the kind that would make a no start condition which is what we are dealing with right now, small leaks that the clear tubing trick is handy with & with electric lift pumps are the "fish bite" problems air messing with optic sensors at power with air in fuel.
 
Onour old 6.2 that had the leaking fuel pump I referred to the truck almost wouldn't start. Had to really crank it.
 
Turbine Doc said:
So when you say do this and it doesn't make sense to what is conventional wisdom has been found to be accurate with these trucks, I'll question you on it, do not take it personally, if you have a new twist so long as it makes sense to way these trucks function I'll be willing to learn all I can from your assertions, actually your push back at my push back is beneficial as it requires me to hit the books and make sure what I think/say is accurate.

I'll surmise (& just a hypothesis) any glows or glow controller that die after new batts or alt were on last legs anyway, and cause of premature death were previous extended glowing from a weakened glow system running undervolt/long current dwell times trying to make starts with low volts.

I've trouble shot glows and glow relays many times with my battery charger, only time a glow went pop right away was when I had flipped the switch on the charger to 100A :eek::eek::eek: that glow died quiclky.
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You said using the charger assist jumpers can damage them. Thank You. Whether its over voltage or over current you get the point, When adding another battery in parallel, and one of them being 14.5V on a generator an overcurrent is possible, considering you combine the output ability of all of them. Not saying youll fry any all the time, just saying it can decrease the life. that was my point with people changing alternators and batterys, and now 6 months later they are having hard to start issues. They jumped the truck several times in the recent past. I'll avoid it when I can, others dont have to. Better quality self regulating glos will probably limit the issue.
 
mine are brand new from accurate diesel, on the site it says they are self regulating, do you know how good of quality they are?
 
I'll concede it is a possibility, way you first stated it, it read as if it you were indicating it was a was a certainty,

I've jump started, charge started many & have never seen it to be an issue, so lets agree it could happen, and my contention may differ than yours, that it is a high probablity that it will happen occur,

I think the probability is far out there and if the final nail in coffin for the glows was overvolt, then they were already on way out before.

And I may be wrong over current would not have same net effect as over volt, I'll know eventually I have some old glows, and now curiosity will bother me to know "how many licks to center of the tootsie pop" :D, or in this case how many trons to kill a glow plug ):h):h):h

Nite Buddy way past my bed-time
 
I jumped my truck a while back with my battery charger on high boost and burned out both low beam lited and my interior dome light. On the plus side my DRL didn't work after I put in a new headlight switch and it started to work after that.
 
Jason63 said:
mine are brand new from accurate diesel, on the site it says they are self regulating, do you know how good of quality they are?
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Your Glos are good, most people go with the AC delco 60Gs, which is because they are self regulating. Others are called Duraterms. I got quick heat self regulating ones from NAPA, because they would sell me stuff at the military's cost, because they were buying parts for 6.5s in the hummers, and I would go in uniform.
 
cool, i think i may know whats wrong in addition to the leak at the T, if im right im glad, but i will kick myself in the head(which i can actually do, not even a midget, im only 6'1 tho) if it is whats wrong because its so dumb, and i might even be to embarrassed to mention it
 
all right i'll tell you, im pretty sure i mismatched my fuel lines, if that IS the case im sorry for all the brain racking you all did to try and help me, if not, be sure i will straighten that out immediately, lol, but yeah don't tell my wife cause i told her its an air leak and i know how to track it down and fix it):h
 
So you put Drain output of filter assembly to the IP? And the Output to the T valve?

I hope that you get it going, but not long ago another user realized his had been that way for like 2 years, and it was running.

Youre going to need to get a remote PMD setup eventually anyway, so if it wont start, to dismiss it as the cause you might want order one. I can send you one on a heatsink to test it if you cant get it started tomorrow.

I dont think its the PMD, because it is accepting the fuel inject signal from the PCM, and passing it to the fuel solenoid if you are still getting fuel to the injectors, and it was at least working when the last engine threw a couple rods through the block.

When you tried rotating the IP to adjust timing, did you try advancing and retarding?

Try unplugging the Coolant Temp Sensor and see if that helps, and have you tried starting it with the Optical Sensor unplugged?

Turbine Doc said:
I'll concede it is a possibility, way you first stated it, it read as if it you were indicating it was a was a certainty,
Alls I said is that it could damage them and you read it to be you'd kill them.
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yeah i think i may have, not exactly sure, i will check tomorrow the truck is in a friends garage so and the wife has the car at her sisters so i can't get to it:mad2: . but if someone else had a truck running like that it would at least explain why i got fuel to the injectors, yeah i tried w the optical sensor unplugged, still nothing. maybe oif it doesn't start after the swap i will re unpliug it and see what happens, yeah if nothing else that would be cool, i won't be able to afford one for a few weeks, i was laid off in October and finally went back to work friday thank god, unenjoyment doesnt pay like work, so we'll see what happens, i won't be able to get out there till about 1, which, well nm we are in the same time zone so i prb won't give any word till about 3 or 4 depending, but thanks man i'll let you know tomorrow
 
The only thing miss-matched lines on filter manager output would give you is unfiltered fuel vs filtered. If fuel was dirty and lines were swaped, the trash wentinto your IP.
 
Being it was a engine swap, have you made sure that the chassic and frame ground where hooked back up? not trying to be no way, just that I have seen them left off before.
 
yeah i rechecked all the grounds they are all hooked up, im starting to think its just the ip, will it still put fuel through when its bad? just from LP pressure and the shaft rotating, because i rechecked what i was getting to the injectors and its only like 2 or 3 drops, i did this after i unplugged OP and got nothing, and isn't it supposed throw a limp code when you do that? cause i still have no codes, even after cranking a bunch of times w/it unplugged
 
or maybe the shaft is bad and thats why the op sensor didn't see anything moving or something and not put it in limp mode?
 
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