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Fuel To injectors, still no start

Jason63

Jason63

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ok ive got no codes now,and fuel to the injectors, so im guessing its air in the lines still, or pump timing, i'll start with air. whats the best way to bleed injector lines, in sequence one at a time, or crack them all or what, if that doesn't do it i'll rip the waterpump off and check timing
 
Jump the LP first from a direct 12V source instead of OPS.

Have you bleed from fuel filter? Make sure there is no air there first.

This is done to make sure that there is continous fuel supply to injector.

Make sure battery is in great condition.
 
yeah ive checked glow plug power, already bled filter housing, batteries are new, just run low from cranking, and yeah its pretty cold, in the morn, about 5 df but warm in afternoon, bout 35-40
 
Jason63 said:
ok ive got no codes now,and fuel to the injectors, so im guessing its air in the lines still, or pump timing, i'll start with air. whats the best way to bleed injector lines, in sequence one at a time, or crack them all or what, if that doesn't do it i'll rip the waterpump off and check timing
Click to expand...

Crack the ones you can get to easily, which is all 4 on the drivers side and one on passenger side, crank a bit. If the 5 you open are all wet, you've got enough fuel to start, you can now look elsewhere.

If you've got fuel, and glows are working, then timing should be all that's left that can prevent it from starting. Also, like JMJ said, a slow or even medium cranking speed won't start it, you've got to have enough cranking power to spin the engine fast to light it.
 
well i had the code 62 from the connector being loose, the snapper on it was broken, so i used a zip tie and tightened it up, cleared codes and it was gone, i fixed the multimeter by dropping(lol) it and it went back to 0, then it gave me a 5V reading. clearing the codes got the fuel flowing i am assuming. i am going to check the timing tomorrow if it doesn't start. battery has been on charger for6 hrs(4pm), till about 5 pm tomorrow, pacific time, 13 hrs should do. i put it on that before i even started this thread, so i'll try that first but if it doesn't start then im guessing timing because i got to all 8(3 were a bitch) and they wet the threads pretty well, so i'll hope its goes, thanks you guys, i wouldn't have a snow balls chance in hell before i got on here, that fuel system/computer collaboration had me vexed.
 
Excellent, which connector was loose? So we all know what to look for in the future.

Dont crank the truck with the charger attached, or jump it with another vehicle running, the overvoltage of greater than 12V could damage the Glo-Plug controller or glo plugs.
 
overvoltage of greater than 12V could damage the Glo-Plug controller or glo plugs.
Click to expand...

Buddy, I'm surprised to hear that. With my Heath chip I have after-glow of maybe 5-6 more cycles after the engine starts. Wouldn't the controller and glows be getting 14 plus volts since the engine is running by then, same as if you were connected to a running vehicle? Just curious, not questioning the wisdom!
 
I get a couple after glows too, and I think the difference may be the time applied, and at that point you have a lot more loads on the battery too which might make up for increased voltage.

I have seen several starting issues, that ended up being glo-plug related and not coincidentally after the person says there was an alternator or battery changes.
 
IIRC glows are rated at 10-16 VDC...which is pretty much standard for anything powered by 12 v dc.

You won't damage anything by cranking with a charger attached......if it would why would there be a "boost" mode on chargers for cranking a vehicle with dead batteries?
 
Most things dont have glo plugs

youre also adding a lot more juice, because its in parallel, so its not just voltage but current that increases total power significantly. Newer better glo-plugs might not have an issue, if they have overvoltage protection.
 
cool, well the charger im using is a trickle charger so it doesn't help short term, it takes hours. the connector to the turbo boost solenoid was loose just had to crank er down with the zip tie, so i'll try it tonight, i went back to work today so i didn't get to tinker with it, so if it doesn't start after a few cranks then im sure its timing, kinda nice tho im working about 3 houses away from the garage its parked in so i can just try it real quick after work
 
Its probably timing related, you can try testing the glo-plugs out of the head, to make sure they are heating up.

Did you get all the info you need on timing it? when you get it running you will need a scanner or the ALDL cable and software to run on laptop. That is to do a TDCO learning procedure, and you can read out the IP timing too.
 
well i am going to try one more thing before i count on timing, my diesel is about 6 months old, bought it in september i think. so im going to get some 911 and put it in the tank and the filter housing cause im pretty sure the diesel is gelling and prob has water in it, even though the water in fuel light doesn't stay on, so i'll see what happens there
 
ok so i tore off my water pump to check my timing, it was right. so i put it back on and tried rotating my IP. still no start, but it sounds like its trying. was before too. i was reading something on having to have the comp programmed to learn the new TDC or something like that when you put your IP on a different engine, i am almost wondering if thats my prob, cause when i had the timing cover off i checked my pump and its fine too , and still no codes but the damn thing just wont start.
 
Jason63 said:
ok ive got no codes now,and fuel to the injectors, so im guessing its air in the lines still, or pump timing, i'll start with air. whats the best way to bleed injector lines, in sequence one at a time, or crack them all or what, if that doesn't do it i'll rip the waterpump off and check timing
Click to expand...


So long as batts are fully charged, and filter manager is fully free of air, successive cranking air will self purge from injection system, I've run fuel tank all way to empty more than a few times, to know this works. To purge air put 12V to the diagnostic port which will force lift to run without cranking & with vent open on top of mgr will purge it.
 
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