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Fuel System redone

94 News. No clear line test. He was dead set on the IP anyway so...his truck right? But, it was the right call because he got the IP and injectors in this weekend, took yesterday off and today after sorting out what order injection lines go on, electrical stuff plugged back in where and temporary ground points sorted out (lower intake isn't on) he lit it off this afternoon and it is purring along just fine. So, once he puts the intakes, turbo, fender etc. back on he's good to go for a road trip. I know he's relieved and, as the one he's been asking advice off, I'm relieved too.
Interesting findings while working on the 94. The Injection pump wasn't OEM (rebuilt Stanadyne) and, additionally, the motor isn't the original one either as his is a 141 block which didn't show up until 1996 (which was what my truck originally had in it). Hmmm. For only 140K on the clock, it's been had some major swaps.

My 96 news...Pump is out, back is out, knees are screaming...so I got the valley cleaned up and treated the rust in there with POR15 and top coated it
.IMG_2687 (1).jpgIMG_2691 (1).jpg
 
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As of last night the IP is in and the injection lines connected up at both ends. I'll have to watch that return line at #7. IP electrical is all connected up as most everything else at the front of the motor as is the oil filler neck etc. I do need a new connector for the MAP/Boost sensor though as it is falling apart and I'm getting a code for it. I'll do the same as my adopted 94 and light it off without the lower intake or turbo on it. Just have to reconnect the grounds to get it started. Put the fan belt on and the upper radiator hose (just easier to get at things with it off). I'll check back tomorrow with results as I left the hood up too many nights and so I'm charging up batteries for the multi starting attempts. Besides, a night without having to bathe in degreaser isn't unpleasant either.
 
And it's running. Was a little rough at first but I tightened one line and swapped back to a known good tune (had an experimental one in there earlier and forgot to take it out). Ran real smooth until I did the TDC learn and it went rough with a reading of -2.46 so obviously the pump needs to move a little to the passenger side. Thanks again for the loan of the Tech II AKDiesel, much appreciated. I'll get this thing sorted out and get your equipment back to you most skosh.
 
So, over the past two weeks, I have successfully timed the pump (3.5* and set the TDC to -1.94. It took three different ECM tunes and what seemed like hundreds of different IP movements to do it.

For the longest time, I could not get the IP to time and regardless of where the IP was rotated too (full driver's side or full passenger side) if the engine would run, the TDC was stuck on stupid or, -2.46 (and a lovely P-1214 to go with it). Oh, it would run better closer the IP was set to vertical but, readings were all wrong.
IP Time function wouldn't activate if it the IP was too far to the driver's side other than to kill the motor. TDC Learn, too far to the driver's side would kill the motor instead of the customary 500 RPM drop.

What's mind numbing though is the fact that the closer to the correct readings I would get after rotating the pump to the passenger side, the worse the motor would run. Chugging gobs of grey eye stinging acrid smoke, loping idle fluctuating 3-6 hundred RPM, never smoothing out. So, now I got the IP Timed and TDC set, I can't even drive it. Applying any kind of throttle pressure results in what sounds like a miss and even more smoke (as if it were possible). I'm surprised the HOA hasn't fined me for having a wood burning stove or, called the fire department.

I either have a bad crank position sensor, which will really piss me off, or a bad IP from the rebuilders (which is not uncommon from what I've been told...rare, but not unheard of). Strange that the truck ran better with the old IP and old tune (though it too wouldn't set timing). I'm assured the two new tunes run great in everyone else's trucks but, that doesn't help me a bit. The good news is that a good friend with a replacement pump, TechII, correct IP adjustment tools (vs my 3/16th bolts and pry bar) as well as patience and time is coming for a visit next week.

So, a big thanks to AKdieselDriver for not putting a bounty out on me for holding your TechII. If I'm screwing you over cause you need it and are too kind to ask for it back, let me know and I'll get it going back to Alaska and home.
 
Unplugged the Optical Sensor and the truck died within a second of starting. Rinse and repeat to be certain. Plugged it back in and went after the Crank Position Sensor.

Condemned the IP and swapped in another one. Since I had the engine reassembled (turbo, intakes etc.) I was pleasantly surprised to have the job done in right at two hours.

Good news...the first IP is actually just fine because, not surprisingly, I'm still at square one with a stupid running truck (chugging, smoking, loping and surging) despite multiple ECMs. Only now I have a newer new IP on it.

Unplugged the Crank Position Sensor, re-started, truck purrs away in limp mode. Unfortunately, you can't adjust timing etc. in limp mode.
Got at the CPS from underneath reaching between cross member and centerlink. The 13mm bolt came right out and the CPS offered no resistance whatsoever but...butted up against the Power Steering Pump and there was no wiggle room to work it out. Soooo close though.

Sent all the tunes back with the builder who's going to test them on a known good truck and he'll ship a few back. In the meantime I'll get that CPS swapped in. Good news is, his Tech 2 and AKDieselDriver's unit read the same so it isn't a calibration issue. "Trust but Verify."
 
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Thursday (6 days ago) I swapped out the Crank Position Sensor. Fun trying to pull the Power Steering Pulley with the D-Max fan in place. At least I got a cool looking replacement pulley 'since I was in there'...after I'd got all the gack off the old one of course.
New PS Pulley.JPG

Of no surprise is the fact the truck still runs stupid, can't set IP timing and can't do a TDC Learn without the engine coughing worse than it already does (as if that is possible). At least its somewhat merciful, the effect of initiating the time set and TDC learn, because it shuts down the motor within a couple of rotations.

My 3rd 'new' rebuilt pump should be here tomorrow so I'm pulling the 2nd 'new' rebuilt pump this afternoon.
What's the definition of insanity again?

Would have pulled it this past weekend but I worked on the deck and we had another interruption like the one we had a couple of weeks ago....
IMG-_2847 Hayden Harris.jpg
My house is right under the flames to the far right.

If this third pump doesn't do the trick, then I'm putting the old one back in. It didn't run perfectly but, I could live with that vs. this crap.
 
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Twisted Steel Performance said:
Specs for any cam is easy to get, it just requires a few dollars and a cam doctor machine and you have true specs...
Click to expand...

Know of a reputable place to send them, I have 2 cams that I don't know which is which 1 is supposed to be a new 6.5 cam the one I was going to install in my "project engine" but Bill convinced me to go HT-4 instead, and the other is a "used but good" I think cam I took out of a red block 1982 6.2 storage building salvage sale for $200 I don't think I got hurt on it :)
 
Turbine Doc said:
Know of a reputable place to send them, I have 2 cams that I don't know which is which 1 is supposed to be a new 6.5 cam the one I was going to install in my "project engine" but Bill convinced me to go HT-4 instead, and the other is a "used but good" I think cam I took out of a red block 1982 6.2 storage building salvage sale for $200 I don't think I got hurt on it :)
[/QUOTE

Yep, about 175 per cam, i have posted specs on several 6x cams, including p400, no differances at all between any 25yr old cam and new.... no one would send me a heath cam so i don't know those specs.
Click to expand...
 
First off...Holy @#$%^&. Good to see you commenting again Turbine Doc, you've been missed. I had to double check to be sure I was seeing what I was seeing.

Second. If this next IP doesn't play well with the motor then I'm putting the old Stanadyne 5521 back on.

Third. If that Stanadyne will no longer play reasonably nice (it was frustrating but, drive able before), disassemble...with contempt!

Starting to sound like that Carly Simon song, Mockingbird.

The fire was the 2nd for us in June where we were watching winds closely to see if we were going to be able to get the deck finished through an insurance claim. We've had fires in June 2012, 2013, 2017 and now these two. Not liking June around here too much these days.
 
Some of us consider the new ds4 ip a heresy, ya know them db pumps are the correct ones that came on it first! Haha
 
Pump arrived yesterday but, since I had family with cute little kids to play pseudo grandpa for, it got put off until this morning...after I got done playing around with the kiddies some more...IP will always be there...truck too it would seem...unmoving, taunting me to try something new and fail me again.

IP went in as one would expect. The injection lines, always a pain having been bent a little this way and that, put up a fight but eventually went in.
Oriented the pump at what looked like the midway point and fought it all the way to the passenger side without being able to time it or do the TDC learn without the motor dying.

It was to the point the motor wouldn't eve start. Figured I'd start over tomorrow so I reset it to the mid point and see if it would at least start. It did and I thought, lets try IP Time Set one more time...that taunting thing I mentioned earlier. Holy Grey Smoke Batman, as soon as I hit 'set' it was at the magical 3.5* and only fluctuating a couple of tenths either way (3.7-3.3) and changing slowly (unlike the other pump jumping all over the place and rapidly too).

TDC learn sorta worked too...engine didn't die and the set was -2.38 vs. -2.47. Seems I need to adjust just an anatomical hair or two to the passenger side and the TDC will straighten up. This is a vast improvement over the 1st rebuilt unit which didn't time or set TDC to at least -1.94 until the pump was almost upside down. Don't know what the deal was with Rebuild unit #2 but, maybe just maybe #3 will prove to be the charm? Don't bet on it...I won't.

I'll be glad when the air gets out of the system on the driver's side though. #1 and #7 holes are poppin' and spitting with lots of grey smoke from the EGR hole. I turned them off to be sure and the popping stopped. With the IP adjusted where it is, the smoke and popping are down significantly too.
 
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