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Fuel Leak

jrsavoie said:
Could you get in there with one of the new snake cameras?
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You could, but you could also verify if the valley is wet. I found mine peering in with a bright flashight. It’s always one of the lines on the lower half of the clock face and it’s always due to the line not seating right. Ideally the lines should be attached to the IP first, followed by connecting to the injector, but we don’t always work that way.
 
Will L. said:
Sounds like the leak is pre ip, allowing air in line when not under pressure. Then it purges after starting.

Is the wif drain valve bad?

Engine off, lift pump on with battery charger on if needed and look see if being under pressure causes it.
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Good Idea. I have one of leroys lift pump relay's that I haven't installed yet. I can hook that up and run the pump and see if I can find the leak under pressure without the truck running.
 
Jaryd said:
Since you raised your ffm up you should be able to get a flash light and look in the engine valley. If you see fuel in the engine valley then you can start looking around the ip. If nothing in the valley then probably the supply hose or return hose leaking on top of the bell housing.

If anything gets in the valley it will run down the bell housing
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I did look down there with the flashlight last night. It was wet but I didn't see where it was coming from. I know it isn't the FFM, Supply or return hoses, or the injector lines or hoses at the injector.
 
MrMarty51 said:
The shut off solenoid on My truck started leaking. it is located at the front top left of the IP, it was dripping off the back of the engine, bell housing, on the passenger side.
Strange how that stuff travels.
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Good to know. That's and easy check
 
Rodd said:
Good Idea. I have one of leroys lift pump relay's that I haven't installed yet. I can hook that up and run the pump and see if I can find the leak under pressure without the truck running.
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CC6A58AE-E12B-4966-8954-C07DD9C4C09A.jpeg

If this is the 98 burb in your signature then you should have this lift pump jumper behind the fuse box. Just run a wire to the positive side of the battery and stick it in the plug. Lift pump should come on.

If this is the 95 dually. I don’t know if obd1 has it. You could easily check and see if it’s there though.
 
Jaryd said:
View attachment 52470

If this is the 98 burb in your signature then you should have this lift pump jumper behind the fuse box. Just run a wire to the positive side of the battery and stick it in the plug. Lift pump should come on.

If this is the 95 dually. I don’t know if obd1 has it. You could easily check and see if it’s there though.
Click to expand...

I took to mounting a fused toggle switch there. I use a 5/16 eyelet and get power off of one of the studs onm the fuse box.

Very handy for priming the filter and doing diagnostics.

But as long as you have Leroy's kit to install, that will do it WILL IN ONE SHOT.
 
Man!!! every I think I fixed it I don't. When I start the truck after fixing and let it idle for 10 minutes it doesn't leak. After driving it is when it starts to leak. I am going to have to take the lower intake off and start it to pin point it.
 
Even though I replaced everything, I am wondering if it is still the return line. The reason I think this is I parked it on a hill facing down hill and it still leaked. If it were up around the IP the fuel wouldn't leak out down the bell housing. I wondering if the return fuel rail is cracked. I am thinking of pushing the hose up and around the bend on the return fitting and using 2 clamps to see if that fixes it.
 
Rodd said:
Even though I replaced everything, I am wondering if it is still the return line. The reason I think this is I parked it on a hill facing down hill and it still leaked. If it were up around the IP the fuel wouldn't leak out down the bell housing. I wondering if the return fuel rail is cracked. I am thinking of pushing the hose up and around the bend on the return fitting and using 2 clamps to see if that fixes it.
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When you get your fuel leak figured out, come figure out the fuel leak on my truck for me.

I am seriously thinking about getting one of those snake cameras to go looking with.

And NO it's not just because I want another toy.
 
Rodd said:
Even though I replaced everything, I am wondering if it is still the return line. The reason I think this is I parked it on a hill facing down hill and it still leaked. If it were up around the IP the fuel wouldn't leak out down the bell housing. I wondering if the return fuel rail is cracked. I am thinking of pushing the hose up and around the bend on the return fitting and using 2 clamps to see if that fixes it.
Click to expand...
When I installed new injectors and return hoses, were not suppose to have to use them little clamps on the new hoses, WRONG, a couple of the hoses split right where they were hooked to the injector or the return pipe.
I installed another set of new hoses and clamped every one of them, no problems thus far, except for that shut off solenoid that came apart.
I think if I would have used the clamps on the first set of hoses, they would not have split.
 
i have a snake cam. have only used it once after the flood to see if under the cabinets were wet. haven't used it since. it connects to the iphone and works great. might charge it and use it again on the smoker pit i'm working on.
 
MrMarty51 said:
When I installed new injectors and return hoses, were not suppose to have to use them little clamps on the new hoses, WRONG, a couple of the hoses split right where they were hooked to the injector or the return pipe.
I installed another set of new hoses and clamped every one of them, no problems thus far, except for that shut off solenoid that came apart.
I think if I would have used the clamps on the first set of hoses, they would not have split.
Click to expand...

I checked all the injector lines and they are good. No leaks from them.
 
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