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Fuel Issues On A 6.5L H1 Hummer

Johnny Rotten

Johnny Rotten

New Member
Messages
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11
Location
TN
Hey guys new member looking for some help.
I have a 2003 H1 Hummer 6.5L with 40K miles on it.
I'll start from the beginning, back in September I was driving home from work, turned on my street it has a slight incline and a turn, as I was approaching the turn my truck turns off unexpected, coast to the side and tried to restart it, nothing so I think my PMD was toast so I change it out quickly thinking I got this, tried to fire it up again, nothing, called my son and he tows me 1000' home, get the truck into the garage, try starting it again, nothing, for whatever reason I decide to pop the water drain on the FFM and it fires up, okay WTH! I start asking questions on the HML (hummer forum), Will L 95 (member here) starts giving me suggestions I do the following: install a fuel pressure gage inside the cab, with low PSI reading I then replace the LP with Leroy's WHLP, PSI readings double to triple, truck is running great again, some time passes and every time I drive it I'm watching the PSI reading and now I'm noticing the reading are going back down, 2wks ago I drove it on a 4hr round trip everything felt ok except the psi reading, so Friday I decided to replace my fuel filter, pulled it out and looked inside the FFM and found this:
IMG_20170407_151058035_zpsclqvmxww.jpg


So I pull the FFM out and give it a through cleaning:
IMG_20170407_151458809_zpsxs1srmem.jpg


Got it all back together and took it for a 3-4 mile test drive, drives ok other then low PSI reading, at this point I'm thinking I have a faulty PSI sensor or gauge.
Take the wife out to dinner Friday night, as we turn on our street, climb the hill and in the same spot my truck died in September it died there again, geez!
Resurrected my post back on the HML and Will 95 mentioned fuel bugs, I'll admit I had to google that one..
what's my next step?
Thanks JR
My post from the HML
http://www.hummernetworkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=244344&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
 
Hook up a temp fuel system to confirm fuel delivery is the problem. I use a 5 gal marine tank, hose, filter and LP. Throw it all up on your roof rack.
 
That is a bad infection with lots of dead bug bodies built up. Stuff is growing everywhere in your fuel system. You can spot check your next fuel purchase and make sure it isn't coming from them. This is why you save fuel receipts.

You should get a test kit and see what kind of bugs you are fighting to make sure the Biocide you get will/is working. Meanwhile grab a fuel soluble Biocide and turn it loose a few are recommended in the thread below. (Stuff doubles every 24 hours so action NOW is required.) Gasoline is a universal "Kill 'Em All" with some side effects. I recommend a large water separator be installed on your fuel system prior to the lift pump. Be prepared to drop and clean out your fuel tank. Throw away the $100 of bad what used to be fuel as it can ruin the $2000 worth of injection equipment from the tank to the injector tips and everything in between. Never mind the filter plugging that will cost more than the used to be fuel is worth.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...ulsd-and-biodiesel-this-can-affect-you.35096/

And Welcome to TTS BTW...

Fighting it since September?! Does the Hummer have a metal fuel tank? If so it will need to be cleaned out and internally re-coated or replaced depending on cost. Pickup tanks are under $200 aftermarket. Under the slime layer that's coating the tank now the bugs eat the lining off and cause pitting that will rust through. Our injections systems don't care about future rusting, but, HPCR systems do. (See the plastic fuel tanks on modern rigs that are Biodiesel compatible and rinse out easy to clean...)
 
Last edited:
Sock in the Hummer tanks?

Easy Button: it's a drop, clean out with a garden hose, soap, and loose the tank sock for a Water Separator prefilter: heated if your climate needs a fuel system heater. You will drop the tank in the future for the damn sock with bug problems even if the bastards are dead as the bodies plug up the sock. Note aftermarket socks do not have a built in bypass.

GM makes a fuel system cleaner for the Duramax trucks that you run from a 5 gal bucket. Has alcohol to get rid of water and the reason you run from a bucket to clean out the worst contaminated system: if it will run HPCR may be saved. Our systems are more tolerant.
 
will metal fuel lines suffer the same fate as the tank?
Will L. said:
Hummer tanks are plastic, and thankfully there is a ton of them on the market currently for next to nothing. Military bought ship load full and never used them I guess??
Think at this price I am going to buy one and stick it on the top shelf for future.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Military-Surplus-Hummer-Humvee-Fuel-Tank-Kit-HMMWV-M998-2910-01-447-3911-/262071487286?hash=item3d04ad8b36:g:h9oAAOSw9r1WCyVl&_trkparms=pageci%3Ab8ae7f50-1e06-11e7-8a6f-74dbd180a675%7Cparentrq%3A5897af1515b0aa162a8a4647fffd8c0c%7Ciid%3A3
Click to expand...
tank might be cheap but shipping is 130.00.
 
Yes metal fuel lines can be toasted too. Same for rubber lines.

Agghh!! Shipping is redunkulous! Something tells me thats where the money is...
 
Definately get some biocide, and do a shock treatment. Remove the tank sock and install a spin on pre filter before your lift pump. I'm running a 19 micron on mine with a drain so I can periodically drain it and check for anything before it plugs up the smaller micron filter at the engine. It can be a battle cleaning out fuel systems once they get contaminated. Once you've gotten growth in your fuel, I always reccomend doing a maintence treatment with a biocide even after you think you're in the clear. A little additive is cheaper than a new fuel system.
 
WarWagon said:
That is a bad infection with lots of dead bug bodies built up. Stuff is growing everywhere in your fuel system. You can spot check your next fuel purchase and make sure it isn't coming from them. This is why you save fuel receipts.

You should get a test kit and see what kind of bugs you are fighting to make sure the Biocide you get will/is working. Meanwhile grab a fuel soluble Biocide and turn it loose a few are recommended in the thread below. (Stuff doubles every 24 hours so action NOW is required.) Gasoline is a universal "Kill 'Em All" with some side effects. I recommend a large water separator be installed on your fuel system prior to the lift pump. Be prepared to drop and clean out your fuel tank. Throw away the $100 of bad what used to be fuel as it can ruin the $2000 worth of injection equipment from the tank to the injector tips and everything in between. Never mind the filter plugging that will cost more than the used to be fuel is worth.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...ulsd-and-biodiesel-this-can-affect-you.35096/

And Welcome to TTS BTW...

Fighting it since September?! Does the Hummer have a metal fuel tank? If so it will need to be cleaned out and internally re-coated or replaced depending on cost. Pickup tanks are under $200 aftermarket. Under the slime layer that's coating the tank now the bugs eat the lining off and cause pitting that will rust through. Our injections systems don't care about future rusting, but, HPCR systems do. (See the plastic fuel tanks on modern rigs that are Biodiesel compatible and rinse out easy to clean...)
Click to expand...

Well that's strike 3, I just called everywhere I can't locate any diesel test kits..
What do you think of this?
I found Diesel Kleen if this is one will kill bugs, algae, etc, I fill my tanks with the appropriate amount of DK, fire it up, let it idle or drive it awhile to get it through the system, shut it off, drain and pull the tanks, clean both tanks toughly, replace socks and etc..
Can I use compressed air and clean the fuel lines? from the IP to FFM, FFM to LP, LP to tank switch valve and SV to tank?
Nuke everything inside the tank with a steam cleaner, has anyone ever used bleach or is that a bad idea?
What kind of cat filter would you recommend? I can tell you that area has 10lbs of crap designed for a 2lbs area, I'll have to research it more...
Thanks for ALL your help...
 
Johnny Rotten said:
Well that's strike 3, I just called everywhere I can't locate any diesel test kits..
What do you think of this?
I found Diesel Kleen if this is one will kill bugs, algae, etc, I fill my tanks with the appropriate amount of DK, fire it up, let it idle or drive it awhile to get it through the system, shut it off, drain and pull the tanks, clean both tanks toughly, replace socks and etc..
Can I use compressed air and clean the fuel lines? from the IP to FFM, FFM to LP, LP to tank switch valve and SV to tank?
Nuke everything inside the tank with a steam cleaner, has anyone ever used bleach or is that a bad idea?
What kind of cat filter would you recommend? I can tell you that area has 10lbs of crap designed for a 2lbs area, I'll have to research it more...
Thanks for ALL your help...
Click to expand...

Wrong tool for the job. <-- that's a period. You want their other product "Bio Kleen Diesel Fuel Biocide". Or just use gasoline heavily tainted diesel if products are hard to find in your area or get overnight delivery. Your IP won't like it but will survive gasoline: it won't survive the bugs. (If you get hot start issues later it's due to this bug problem taking out the head and rotor.) Again gasoline is better than "whats under the kitchen sink" bleach because bleach reacts/corrodes with everything gassing off WWII choking agents that can kill you.

Compressed air won't do anything for you. The slime coating everything has to have something KILL IT and won't move with compressed air.

After the biocide treatment steam clean tanks is a good idea. I just used dish soap and a garden hose on the plastic Duramax tank involved. Again loose the sock unless you want to become and expert at dropping the tank because the Fing thing plugged up yet again. I dropped the tank 5 times and even with the sock off had to drop the tank to clean it out learning about bugs that no one appears to post much about except in boating forums. Damned little info out there.

And dropping the tank: you should order a new fuel level sensor as the bugs likely corroded the sensor you have. @Burning oil Leroy Diesel has better sensors that can withstand bug attacks. (It did for me.) Do not trust the level reading - stick a hose in the tank and suck it dry before you drop the tank. It's heavy and will belch what used to be fuel all over the place from the filler hole. Don't ask me about taking a bath in that s#it from a fuel level sensor reading empty and a clogged tank sock making me think the tank was empty before dropping it!

One biocide did not work: wrong "pesticide" for the problem. I shocked it so much it triggered the WIF light from the biocide alone.

Couple ideas below similar to what I used: Cat- 175-2949 as seen in the 2nd thread. The other one has a clear base to see what's going on. Racor brand is also a good big water separator setup.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/a-little-bit-of-fuel-system-r-r.35423/

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/upgrades-to-my-93-6-5.36502/


The GM fuel system cleaner I speak of (PN may be updated):

 
Last edited:
WarWagon said:
Wrong tool for the job. <-- that's a period. You want their other product "Bio Kleen Diesel Fuel Biocide". Or just use gasoline heavily tainted diesel if products are hard to find in your area or get overnight delivery. Your IP won't like it but will survive gasoline: it won't survive the bugs. (If you get hot start issues later it's due to this bug problem taking out the head and rotor.) Again gasoline is better than "whats under the kitchen sink" bleach because bleach reacts/corrodes with everything gassing off WWII choking agents that can kill you.

Compressed air won't do anything for you. The slime coating everything has to have something KILL IT and won't move with compressed air.

After the biocide treatment steam clean tanks is a good idea. I just used dish soap and a garden hose on the plastic Duramax tank involved. Again loose the sock unless you want to become and expert at dropping the tank because the Fing thing plugged up yet again. I dropped the tank 5 times and even with the sock off had to drop the tank to clean it out learning about bugs that no one appears to post much about except in boating forums. Damned little info out there.

And dropping the tank: you should order a new fuel level sensor as the bugs likely corroded the sensor you have. @Burning oil Leroy Diesel has better sensors that can withstand bug attacks. (It did for me.) Do not trust the level reading - stick a hose in the tank and suck it dry before you drop the tank. It's heavy and will belch what used to be fuel all over the place from the filler hole. Don't ask me about taking a bath in that s#it from a fuel level sensor reading empty and a clogged tank sock making me think the tank was empty before dropping it!

One biocide did not work: wrong "pesticide" for the problem. I shocked it so much it triggered the WIF light from the biocide alone.

Couple ideas below similar to what I used: Cat- 175-2949 as seen in the 2nd thread. The other one has a clear base to see what's going on. Racor brand is also a good big water separator setup.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/a-little-bit-of-fuel-system-r-r.35423/

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/upgrades-to-my-93-6-5.36502/


The GM fuel system cleaner I speak of (PN may be updated):

Click to expand...

I found Bio Kleen Diesel Fuel Biocide and had it NDA should arrive Wednesday, I'll follow instructions and research the cat filter more tomorrow.
How long does it take to kill those little bastards after BKDFB is placed into the fuel system?
 
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