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Fuel Issues On A 6.5L H1 Hummer

I'd skip the "fill the tank" direction.
1) Bugs can be immune to Bio Kleen Diesel Fuel Biocide and now you have even more contaminated fuel to get rid of.
2) You are going to drop and wash the tank out anyway.
3) After clean up and verifying this stuff kills em dead you will be filling it up and running Bio Kleen Diesel Fuel Biocide for awhile to get any missed areas and make sure s#it stays dead. No Zombie bugs here... :D

When things start dying they clump together and plug filters quick. Thus you want the least amount of buggy fuel to do the job. you may have to use a 5 gal can, pail etc. to run this through the system and clean the tank out separately due to plugging socks, filters, etc. The amount of stuff in the FFM gives you an idea of what you are in for.
 
So what I gather from the tech bulletin.
1) shock tanks with 1oz per 20gal x 2 tanks
2) Recirculate fuel, I guess this means drive it or let it idle for 30 minutes, switch between tanks?
3) Let it sit for 8+hrs
4) I guess they are dead after 8hrs, how do I verify this?
5) Break out the tools
Just received tracking info, its about to get real....real messy...LOL
 
Verify dead? Testing the fuel to verify:
http://www.biobor.com/where-to-buy/...el-fuel-additives/hum-bug-kit-fuel-additives/

I recommend you pull and clean out the FFM again.

Alternate check:
Pull a fuel sample in a glass jar from the water drain if it isn't plugged solid. Old spaghetti sauce container that went through the dishwasher for example. Put some biocide in it.

The fuel may change color to black. Good #2 Diesel is a clear green or yellowish color.

Maybe pull a second sample and add some water.

A control sample that's untreated for reference would be a fun science experiment.

See if anything is growing in it a couple days later. Refer to the white stuff growing in the pictures from this post. In addition to the "old school" picture below I had white stuff growing in the diesel (ULSD, Biodiesel B99) layer itself. The diesel is a nasty color in this picture BTW.

bad_day.jpg
 
I hunted down a mason jar to pull a sample, I used my drain pan that I used Friday it had about a quart still in it, my drain bucket is clean and the diesel looked good it's still clear green/ yellowish in color..
Here is the sample I just took out of the water drain on the FFM, I filled my tanks 3-4wks ago.
IMG_20170411_180548996_zpsoirrhps2.jpg
 
Johnny Rotten said:
I hunted down a mason jar to pull a sample, I used my drain pan that I used Friday it had about a quart still in it, my drain bucket is clean and the diesel looked good it's still clear green/ yellowish in color..
Here is the sample I just took out of the water drain on the FFM, I filled my tanks 3-4wks ago.
IMG_20170411_180548996_zpsoirrhps2.jpg
Click to expand...

Edit

IMG_20170411_200918865_zpsulhglgxp.jpg
 
That is good news.

How much have you run it since the new fiter went in, and have you looked at it since? How is it running at the moment?
 
Maybe 25mi on the new filter and I haven't inspected it since install , last Friday it shut off 1000' from my home in the exact spot it did in sept last yr..
you mention on HML the IP screen was a bitch to remove, isn't it under the hose connection on the IP, it's on top and in the open, why so hard?
Plan A is pull the fuel supply hose to the IP and check flow, pull IP screen if needed? check fuel lines, schrader valve, psi sensor, remove FFM and clean it again but this time I'll remove the lower screen (I missed it last time), recheck my WHLP install (including the internal screen filter). Plan B keep tank switch to tanks...
My guts telling me its the WHLP FW, spoke with Leroy in length and I might need a stiffer spring in the LP, he was going to call and ask questions about that.

BTW its running right now, last Friday when it shut off, after I got it started it was sputtering for a little while (I guess it lost its prime), I just don't like the idea it can shut off at any moment and be stranded
 
it's at the back of the IP, facing away. intake needs removing. there are other parts in there that only go one way or you'll never get the housing back on. i've done it successfully once, not so the other.
 
The "Snot" from the bugs grows everywhere and clogs all filters and screens. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge you can watch? Watch for bubbles coming from the IP and in this case it's NOT air: the suction on a restriction will boil diesel fuel in a vacuum and literally vapor lock it. So good PSI from the fuel filter and bubbles mean the IP screen is clogged.

Have you removed the sock in the fuel tank? Then recheck the FFM last ditch screen that's under the fuel filter. I am not clear if a DS4 has a screen on the fuel inlet like the DB2 does.

IMO send the pump out to be checked or just write it off and get a good new/rebuilt one. The bugs and corrosive fuel ruin the head and rotor resulting in hard hot starts. I only suggest this after you are sure there are no other restrictions in the system and solely because you want reliability. You can play with the pump risking no hot starts. You will have to take the risk to make sure everything is fixed. Get it hot in town and then do the hot start test: does it start with a heat soaked IP?
 
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The screen is just hard to get to is all, and tiny, so annoying to handle. If it is clean it is not to bad,
But trying to clean it, dropping it is easy.
 
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