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Fuel contamination

I went and got a different abs box of one of the parts trucks, thought it was the same.. but this one's off a 2000 gasser. Upon inspection, it looks a little different and only has 1 bleeder port I can see.. we have another truck that's a 97 1500 gasser.. the box and plugs look the same but again it only has 1 bleeder I can see. But it may be under bottom side where I can't see it without taking box out..
How much difference is there in them?
 
my ABS box is the same way. the pin is up in there but deep.

on the steering pump. disconnect the return line that is clamped to the hydro boost connect a hose to the HB and drop it into a container. top off the PS pump and start it up. steer the wheel left followed by a couple brake pump presses. top off fluid and steer to the right followed by a couple of brake presses. top off. then repeat. if when doing this, as soon as you feel / hear the PS pump run out of fluid. shut it off and top off the fluid. you'll get the hang of it and timing of it so to know when to stop and refill before it empties the PS pump. have you a gallon or more of fluid handy. keep doing this till the fluid going into the bucket is clear and clean :)
 
There is the link to how to flush the power steering system. it took a bit of searching to find lol.

Power Steering/Hydro Boost Fluid Flush

This is compliments of Heartbeat Hauler (Jeff) and I've put a bit of editing into it as well as photos . Under the hood on the driver's side next to the fire wall up high there is a rubber return line w/ a spring clip holding it on. It's real obvious and the only one there. Put some rags under...
www.thetruckstop.us
 
Ok thanks @dbrannon79 that's going to be on the list to do.
But right now there's bigger fish to fry.
I had to go drop off a trailer at a friend's house today . Truck felt like it was dragging BAD.. keep in mind the trailer might weigh 400 lb if that.. after dropping off the trailer I was on my way home and the truck was still dragging terrible like I was overpowering the hell out of the brakes. I got into the house and thankfully had my floor jack right in the driveway already so I jacked it up real quick with the engine still running. And tried to turn the front wheels. I could turn them by hand but it took some muscle. I talked some cool water on the rotors just a couple drops and it starts sizzling like an egg in a frying pan. I opened the bleeder on the passenger side wheel and spun it and it started turning a lot easier. I'm seriously hung up on thinking the problem is with the ABS box. The brake holders have been replaced a couple times although I do have brand new ones for the front again. Also while on my way home I had a stupid thought and tried it. I got doing about 45 or 50 miles an hour and was on a back road that is paved but has dirt pull-offs every couple miles. So I made sure I was up to a good speed and went off the road into a pull off in the dirt and hit the brakes hard. Dabs barely cycled only for a second and then the tires just locked and skidded. Again just makes me think that box ain't worth a s***
 
@dbrannon79 yes I replaced the hoses two different times in the past since the problem started with the truck. However I will say when I replace them those times I used the AutoZone brand ones. And one thing I've noticed when you Jack the truck up and the suspension fully stretches out those hoses get stretched. I don't think they make them long enough. I have brand new AC Delco hoses sitting in the backseat right now that I'm going to put on. I'm quite sure that won't make any difference but who knows maybe the AutoZone ones were trash right out of the box. What's throwing me off is that not a week ago when I did the back brake line I went through a lot of brake fluid getting the line to pressurize by the time I was done the reservoir on the master cylinder had all brand new fluid in it. I looked at it today and it's already starting to turn color. That tells me that something is burning it. I was thinking that the next time it starts dragging instead of popping the bleeder open I'm going to disconnect the hose from the metal line. My theory is that if by disconnecting the hose from the line it releases the brakes then the hoses are not the problem it's further upstream. Which the next stop would be the ABS box.
What keeps messing me up, is that the problem is intermittent some days that truck drives like a Camaro other days it's like an old Oldsmobile tank. It can be running great take your foot off the break and the truck accelerates on its own rapidly, takes off like a rocket no problem. 10 minutes later you can stop at a stop light or whatever and go to take off and it can't get out of its own way it feels like you just hooked up a 30-ton trailer to it. Little while later maybe run into Walmart come out get in the truck and it's back to being fine for a while. There's been times that it runs great all day . The next day get in it back out of the driveway put it in drive and it's dragging. . It has been extremely frustrating.
 
having the hoses being stretched out when jacked up might be an indicator that they are too short. there are a couple of different ones for these trucks. what are the part numbers on the delco ones you have? I looked on RA and see a couple of different ones with different lengths.

if they are being pulled tight when jacked up, the first stretch could have ruined them.
 
Here is a pic of the ones I see available for these trucks. listed for a 1997 first pic is for DRW, second SRW, and third 3500HD all for front left wheel

1661487242386.png

1661487269546.png

1661487320597.png
 
looking on RA those two are for the DRW trucks. looks like the right ones. if they measure the same as the ones on the wheels now. it might just be the positioning there in or where the center mount is on the hose that keeps it tied down. sometimes those brackets are in a position where it makes the hose seem short and they just need to be slid one way or the other on the rubber hose.

but being that the ones on your truck were already stretched tight, they might be ruined and need to be changed. @Will L. or @WarWagon might be able to comment on this with better knowledge than I have.
 
In the past, when I had to replace the brake lines.
I could not find the one with the correct length.
IIRC, the one at the store are for the 1/2 Ton trucks and therefore, it is shorter.
The mechanic that did it, told me to bring the part to a hydraulic shop nearby.
They made the same exact length reusing the fittings, replacing the hose and high pressure test.
The hose has been good for more than 10 years.
The other side was done later and I went to the same shop.
It is a little bit more expensive but it is good.
 
I’m no help on right or wrong part.
Brakes sound like they are hanging up. I would normally just do a flush and recheck. If hoses are damaged or suspicious of interior damage I change them, then flush.

Burned fluid is indicating brakes being hung up.

You could use some of that brake line you just bought and bypass the abs for testing. If you don’t have a proportioning valve separate from the abs- then use extra caution.
Aftermarket adjustable proportioning valves come in handy for such situations.

I figure, you been driving thousands of miles with half the brakes not working so far. In for a penny, right? 😐
Bypass, new brake lines that you know are correct and flush. Then test. A caliper that is hanging up will do the same thing. This way you eliminate the abs possibility.
Obviously doing all this with the brakes you are risking crashing and such so test cautiously on a closed coarse away from public and preferably in a test laboratory, right? Yeah...
 
JMJNet said:
In the past, when I had to replace the brake lines.
I could not find the one with the correct length.
IIRC, the one at the store are for the 1/2 Ton trucks and therefore, it is shorter.
The mechanic that did it, told me to bring the part to a hydraulic shop nearby.
They made the same exact length reusing the fittings, replacing the hose and high pressure test.
The hose has been good for more than 10 years.
The other side was done later and I went to the same shop.
It is a little bit more expensive but it is good.
Click to expand...
Sometimes a little more expensive is cheaper in the long run
 
Does anyone know if quadstar sells just replacement oil cooler hoses. Don't need fittings or cooler. I ordered the whole set up from them a couple yrs ago. Noticed a oil drip under truck tonight. One of the hoses hase a pin hole and the metal braiding is torn.
 
Stoney said:
Does anyone know if quadstar sells just replacement oil cooler hoses. Don't need fittings or cooler. I ordered the whole set up from them a couple yrs ago. Noticed a oil drip under truck tonight. One of the hoses hase a pin hole and the metal braiding is torn.
Click to expand...
I would think you could get the hose made locally, if you have a way to get the there and back
 
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