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Feed the Beast pics

Buddy whats this heater coil your talking about? I just took apart my factory unit and no coil. You said the coil but not the heater, so I assume your not talking about the heater shaft is a coil?

Its a long smooth shaft :)
 
Matt some I've taken apart have a coil spring around the central core, some don't, I don't know if it's an addition to later models, possibly something added for better heat distribution passively when fuel heater element energizes, next time I find one with the spring I'll try to remember to snap a photo of it.
 
The first picture in this thread shows the coil sitting on the heater. It fits tight inside the central shaft so that I had to push it out, its not loose. It basically is a huge resitriction to distribute heat to the fuel I guess.
 
Can't find the reference anywhere! Recently I read a thread about fuel pressure and pressure drop, well I've been searching for two days and can't locate it again, so I'll pose my question here.
I added a Jegs 0-15 fuel pressure gauge when I did FTB mod. What should I have for pressure? I am seeing about 3lbs at idle, although this morning when it was a little cooler I had closer to 7lbs. Any application of throttle causes it to dump to zero. Even if I'm cruising and it's at 3, if I barely touch the throttle to go up a hill or to speed up a touch, it drops to nothing. Is this right? I'm wondering if it's not actually starving for fuel, but the gauge is. Meaning, the IP is taking enough fuel that the gauge is not getting the 3 or so lbs of pressure. It still runs strong at zero, which is weird. Seems like it would stumble with 0lbs of pressure.
Lift pump is 93 style and not old, probably less than a year. I have a Walbro frb-5 on order. I'm thinking I should blow through the line from lp inlet back to the tank?

Even with this kind of fuel pressure, it feels really strong on WOT runs. I've only had it to about 75mph a couple times, from a stop, but it pulls like this truck never has! Can't wait to hook the camper to it.
 
It sure sounds like a clogged filter, or an extrememly weak LP.

Dropping with throttle is normal, going to zero isn't.

Its making the IP do extra work, taking life off of it perhaps.

When I had clogged fllter I had the same experience.

I also had the same experience when I was running an old carter LP (stock type) while waiting for my Walbro to come back.

The IP is quite capable of sucking alot on its own, however it is not designed for this. This is why FP Gauge is so important, the truck will run just fine without any... Until the IP is toast that is.
 
You need more pressure Dan. Much more! I think that's been your hangup for a while, and it makes sense. Low pressure and flow would drop power at high rpm.
 
Come to think of it, my tank is pretty new as well, and sock looked fine when I changed it. I put the filter back in the other day because it looked good. I change it pretty regularly.
 
as I just wrote in the other ftb thread, I lost any semblance of fuel pressure today. I could feel the lp pulsing, and I could feel it when I squeezed the line ot the gauge between my fingers. But gauge struggled to read a half pound at idle
 
Dan, put a 2 liter soda bottle on the end of your t-handle drain hose. Start the lift pump with the engine OFF. You should get 1 liter/minute with a stock lift pump and 2 liters/minute with the Walbro FRB-5. If you are getting less than 1 liter/minute now, either the lift pump is weak or you have a restriction before the pump.
 
thanx

guybb3 said:
Dan, put a 2 liter soda bottle on the end of your t-handle drain hose. Start the lift pump with the engine OFF. You should get 1 liter/minute with a stock lift pump and 2 liters/minute with the Walbro FRB-5. If you are getting less than 1 liter/minute now, either the lift pump is weak or you have a restriction before the pump.
Click to expand...

That makes a heck of a lot more sense than the GPH spec.
A 2 liter bottle of soda is $0.99 around here.
 
I was just wondering if anyone has done this FTB mod on a db2 (non electronic 6.5) injector pump? My fitting comes in the middle of the rotor, not at the top of the injector pump. Im not sure what kind of fitting I would need.
 
IIRC a 1/8 NPt to 3/8 barb worked. I don't remember but I do remember using something larger than stock and got it from the auto parts store. It wasn't anything special. I got a bench full of dead ones. I can look tommorow for sure. Gotta watch fuel pressure with a DB2. too much can make the IP advance thinking it's cold or something like that.
 
Detroit Dan said:
So maybe Im missing something, but nowhere can I seem to find what size drill and tap to use on the filter manager, nor can I find how deep to drill it. Instructions saying "dont drill too deep" isn't really that helpful. Does it have to be just deep enough to seat the fitting, or do I go deeper to open up more. Because it looks like there's be a restriction just before the fitting starts if you don't go deeper.
I don't have a local machine shop to go to, and for one little hole like this I'd think I could handle myself. I just want to be sure before I do it. I have some taps but no dies, so I want to know I'm tapping it the right size.
Also, how vital is the fitting going down into the IP? I saw that Buddy modified his, but my kit didn't include anything to address that, just a fitting to go on top of it. So, is it a waste of time to run ftb size up to that and have it restricted there?
Click to expand...

You should have read my original thread. I laid out how to do it with alot of detail. I was one of the first to try this after TD.
 
The fatcory pickup sceen has a sort of bypass if you will. Basically a little flap that will allow fuel around the screen if the screen is clogged and has avacuum created within it. I replaced my pickup/sending unit today and the new aftermarket one did not have this feature which was quite disturbing so I reused the factory screen.
 
I don' think the 93 LP is all that special either. I installed on on my Burb with a stock 6.2 and it doesn't pump all that strong and I'm running a 3/8 pickup with no screen. It's ok for the burb but I think these factory LPs are garbage the more I play around with them. When funds allow I'm going to get the full Raptor kit for my Dually. I love the one in my CUCV and I REALLY like being able to adjust it to whatever I want.
 
Acesneights1 said:
You should have read my original thread. I laid out how to do it with alot of detail. I was one of the first to try this after TD.
Click to expand...

IIRC wasn't it your handywork coming up with the nice elbow fitting at the IP too?

OT - I was working it Putnam CT today. It felt a good 15 degrees hotter there than Worcester.
 
Matt Bachand said:
IIRC wasn't it your handywork coming up with the nice elbow fitting at the IP too?

OT - I was working it Putnam CT today. It felt a good 15 degrees hotter there than Worcester.
Click to expand...

Yes to both. The 150 bend was my twist as well as using a JIC at the FFM for easier removal rather than wrestle with a barb if the FFM ever had to be removed for service.
It was hot as hell here. My Dually is down and the Burb was at the yard in Manchester so I was running for parts in the CUCV. Gotta get some A/C in there ASAP.
 
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