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Feed the Beast pics

Id like to add this to my original post if a mod can do that.


FTB FM fitting-small.jpg
I used an 1/8" MPT (male pipe thread) to 3/8" hose barb into the filter manager (FM). That can be seen in the FM sitting on my drill press. I prefer to use the barb fitting with only a single smooth lip on the end, because the other jagged ones are impossible to get the hose off and it tears them up. having a 1/8" NPT tap has come in real handy for mods to the 6.5. I hammered a 12 point 3/8" socket on it for simple use, because I couldnt find a tool I cared to pay for to just turn the tap. the picture is actually of a 1/4"MPT to 1/4" hose barb, but its the right style.
 
That come with your walbro? :) You're right about can't get the off the mulitbarbs... have to slice and dice to get it off. My FTB filter has a quick lock multibarb type of thing that has a swivel in between the barbs and and the other end turns without the hose and barb turning so it can be unthreaded in one peice from teh Flt Mgr.
 
Yes that came with one of the two Walbros I bought. I switched to 3/8 hose fitting of course.

I saw a blue anodized AL 1/8" MPT to 3/8" JIC with 3/8" JIC swivel to 3/8" hose barb kit at Summit for like $24. That is a good idea for the FFM, although the single barb I have does the trick well enough without harming the fuel line.

For any interested JIC is the same as AN, just seperated in thread class which is of no consequence at less than say 1000psi. Both JIC and AN have a 37 degree thread pitch and 9/16-18 threading. The AN numbering is a fraction of 16. -16AN being a 1" hose fitting. So -6AN is 6/16= 3/8" hose even though it has 9/16" threads. There are special 45 degree pitch JIC fittings, but stick with 37 degree and it is interchangeable with AN fittings.
 
buddy said:
Yes that came with one of the two Walbros I bought. I switched to 3/8 hose fitting of course.

I saw a blue anodized AL 1/8" MPT to 3/8" JIC with 3/8" JIC swivel to 3/8" hose barb kit at Summit for like $24. That is a good idea for the FFM, although the single barb I have does the trick well enough without harming the fuel line.

For any interested JIC is the same as AN, just seperated in thread class which is of no consequence at less than say 1000psi. Both JIC and AN have a 37 degree thread pitch and 9/16-18 threading. The AN numbering is a fraction of 16. -16AN being a 1" hose fitting. So -6AN is 6/16= 3/8" hose even though it has 9/16" threads. There are special 45 degree pitch JIC fittings, but stick with 37 degree and it is interchangeable with AN fittings.
Click to expand...

Good Info. Might as well complete the area here by defining what JIC and AN stand for please.
 
You know Buddy, I think you are correct. I'm going to switch future FTB kits to that fitting at the manager. We have been using the 1 barb for some time.
 
I guess 1/4" NPT or 1/8" NPT works, I just like that you dont have to cut as much out and with the 1/8" you can drill back all the way the one size with less worry. And there is no restriction in the 1/8" NPT, it has the same bore as the 3/8" hose nipple. you have more slop room too with smaller hole.
 
Buddy, sorry if I missed it but did you mention anywhere why you raised up the filter manager? Just curious.
 
The reason I raised the FFM is that I didnt want to run the fuel line under the manifold and I like having easy access to all of it. I dont know if it changes its temp or impacts anything, but no problems yet.

It did vibrate a lot until I put some rubber spacers in.
 
If you guys find my old thread at DP I used a 3/8(iirc) to -6an barb at the FFM so it could be easily removable rather than trying to wrestle with a barb under the intake. I drilled out the fitting for max flow. Of course now If I did it again I would use Push Lok. I had basically set mine up with the 150 bend, and -6an at BOTH ends of the line for ease of service in the future. FFM are know for leaks and I figured it would probably need reselaing someday even though I used Viton O rings when I did FTB. Remember when this all came about TD used Barbs at both ends and just looped his fuel line up to the IP. I was the one who came up with using the 150 bend and the an couplers.
 
Veg_Out said:
You know Buddy, I think you are correct. I'm going to switch future FTB kits to that fitting at the manager. We have been using the 1 barb for some time.
Click to expand...


Are your kits coming with this 1 Barb Fittings yet...looking at your website its still showing the multi-barbed one....and I would be wanting the future release you describe.....
 
So maybe Im missing something, but nowhere can I seem to find what size drill and tap to use on the filter manager, nor can I find how deep to drill it. Instructions saying "dont drill too deep" isn't really that helpful. Does it have to be just deep enough to seat the fitting, or do I go deeper to open up more. Because it looks like there's be a restriction just before the fitting starts if you don't go deeper.
I don't have a local machine shop to go to, and for one little hole like this I'd think I could handle myself. I just want to be sure before I do it. I have some taps but no dies, so I want to know I'm tapping it the right size.
Also, how vital is the fitting going down into the IP? I saw that Buddy modified his, but my kit didn't include anything to address that, just a fitting to go on top of it. So, is it a waste of time to run ftb size up to that and have it restricted there?
 
Dan, I THINK its a 1/8 NPT TAP and needs a 7/16'th pilot.

THAT is from memory so verify. But nobody else chimed in so it may help.

Bring the fitting to the hardware store and double check the 1/8 NPT, then if a match, buy the matching tap, instructions on the tap should give pilot size.


So then I would guess cut off the factory outlet, drill it out 7 / 16ths, then 1/8NPT tap it. Just don't drill through the inner wall, you should see it once you cut the factory nipple off.

I used the yellow tube #2 pipe seal paste. No leaks.

I bought one off of Ebay last year when it popped up, so I didn't do mine myself. But I have a spare which always makes my modding go easier!
 
That's what I did, I had a tap I thought was the same but didn't quite dare risk it. Unfortunately the hardware guy with a brain was off today, so it took an hour to figure out with the guy without a brain. Once we determined what size it was (1/8 npt) then it took a while to find the right tap, but they had it. But the package for the tap said use drill bit size Q. No lettered drill bits anywhere, so he hunted through the catalog. Eventually I decided it was between 5/16 and 3/8, so I used a 5/16 with a tiny bit of extra reaming. Got the tap in and out and the fitting in ok. Got dark before I could get it back together.
Tried to replace the short length of hose off the back of the ffm, but I absolutely could not get it off the metal line. The clamp is turned away from me, finally I gave up. I'm too old to be lying on top of the engine like that. The existing line looks ok anyway. I ran a new length of fuel line down from the return line, because that's the one leaking. I thought they were both leaking but it's only the return line.
I ran a pice of hose from the ftb thru a tee into the cab, and mounted the fuel pressure gauge above the cab light switch on the dash. Just need to put the ffm back in, hook up all the lines and flush it, and I'll be done.
Instructions that came with the ftb kit leave something to be desired.
 
Detroit Dan said:
So maybe Im missing something, but nowhere can I seem to find what size drill and tap to use on the filter manager, nor can I find how deep to drill it. ?
Click to expand...

You didn't look very hard :D I typed in 1/8" NPT tap in Yahoo search and 1st listing was the one I posted, to make sure you don't do damage to the FFM when drilling, grind the drill bit point to almost flat so it can't cut any metal.

You are just reaming out the opening with the drill bit so you have room for the tap to cut, you don't want it to be capable of drilling into the tube in the center of the FFM where that the "last ditch" screen sits on. Also this is NPT so it is supposed to have a taper to it, so it can seal, so don't run the tap all the way down, you want solid thread engagement into the tapered thread set you cut with the tap.

Often folks forget a NPT is not like straight machine threads, you have to keep the taper for them to seal properly, vs running the tap straight thru like in machine threads.
 
Sounds like you got the drilling and tapping down, but I would say that you should drill all the way back to the center shaft. Just dont drill into the center shaft, which is the "too far". Thats why TD recommends grinding down the tip of the drill bit so it doesnt stick out and dimple the shaft before you get all the way through the thick of the filter manager. Thats where I stopped and flipped the bit around and just reamed out the little bit left with the flat side.

Also, you do not have to bore out the lower IP fitting but for max effect I would recommend it. It is difficult though, it took me like 10min a hole, four holes, on the press, oil cooling the bit and fitting as I went.
 
thanks guys, thats pretty much how it worked out. I actually had the discussion with the hardware store guy about the threads, he was convinced it should thread in freely without ever encountering resistance, but I thought it was supposed to start tightening after a few turns.
 
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