Eye connectors

[jrsavoie]

Any such thing as a bad fuel filter? I fixed ground from frame to head and made a new one frame to firewall, then replaced fuel filter and plugged the blue hose then tried to bleed the new filter nothing would come out of the bleeder hose I heard the lp working then loosened the bleeder screw so much fuel started coming out of sides but nothing out the bleeder hose. Tried it with blue hose plugged and unplugged.

Look at your bleeder screw.

I've had the same issue and on some, I found that there wasn't even a hole through the bleeder. The only place for the fuel to go was out all over around the threads. What mess

 

[Will L.]

The lift pump should pump fuel out the drain valve about one pint every 15 seconds.

With the fso unscrewed you do not need power to it for the fuel to flow, but would need power to the lift pump.

 

[panran]

Okay a little progress maybe pic

 

[panran]

Call it a night..when I unscrewed the fuel shut off solenoid it was 1/2 full screwed it half way on and it tried to pump fuel in pic with bubbles and was leaking under the truck but that’s all…5 connections I can’t plug in..are they okay?

 

[dbrannon79]

Which connections?

on the FSO. can you pull it out and test it by applying power and ground to see if it actuates? maybe Will or someone can elaborate on how to test one out of the truck.

my fear is trying to start it with the FSO disabled and then you not being able to shut off the engine. I know... I'm just fearful like that!

 

[panran]

The 5 I’m holding

 

[dbrannon79]

Yellow one is the boost pressure sensor not needed to start, AC pressure switch not needed, IAT (intake air temp) sensor not needed to start, AC compressor not needed, and the other two wire plug I'm not sure what that goes to. I circled the two that look the same, one is teh IAT and the other not sure what it goes to. Maybe coolant? if that's the ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor, it will start without it.

all will turn on the check engine light but you can clear the codes later.

 

[Will L.]

To test the fso just remove it from ip, reconnect the wires, make sure housing is grounded and have someone turn on the key while you watch the end. The little plunger piece should retract. Turn key off and it should extend. It barely moves - like about an 1/8”, maybe not even that. Been too many years since checked one.

 

[panran]

Will, so that ladder fuel thing is that like syphoning gravity fill up?

 

[panran]

So you use the 5/16 hose for feed and the 1/4 lower?

 

[dbrannon79]

Will, so that ladder fuel thing is that like syphoning gravity fill up?

Yes

So you use the 5/16 hose for feed and the 1/4 lower?

iirc the feed line to the IP is 5/16 from factory and the return is 1/4

connecting a small can with diesel to eliminate the tank, LP and factory lines as a problem, you won't need to run a return to the diesel can, just one feed line to the IP the unused diesel will return back to the truck tank. just watch for air bubbles in the clear line once the IP sucks up fuel. I would use a clear line from the diesel can so you can see the IP sucking up the fuel.

 

[Will L.]

Yes gravity feed.

Almost right-
You do want the return line from the ip going into the temporary test fuel tank. Everything else Doug said is correct.
The reason is we want to trap fuel flow from ip to an in use tank. This helps do the bubble test properly.

 

[dbrannon79]

I was thinking more in terms of when he get is started he would have to plug off where the factory return connected so the fuel returning from the injectors wouldn't come up and out. I see what your saying now.

 

[jrsavoie]

On the lift pump relay upgrade for 1995 and older. The first one or 3 I did, I cut and spliced as per some instructions posted.

Later, I kind of copied Leroy.

And did plug and play. Much better.

I prefer mountable relay sockets as opposed to mountable relays. - to me, those are a pia for testing, replacing and jumping.

I consider the prime feature with the glow plugs mandatory.

I also add a toggle switch to run the lift pump on demand. Great for diagnostics and priming.
I use the toggle switches with the red safety cover, so they're not easily bumped.

I think I posted the numbers for the connectors needed several years ago.

I'm sure Glagulator can help with that.

As long as Leroy's is made the way I like, I'd just go that route.

I remember not using his at one time because he used a momentary switch instead of an on/off switch. I think he changed that.

The relay socket is also a deal breaker for me.

I would probably still order Leroy's and just swap out the relay for a relay socket, depending on how his is made.

I have the relay sockets here anyway

 

[dbrannon79]

I too like the relay sockets that mount rather than the relay that mounts. most of the time when I mount a relay, the ground for the relay gets grounded to the frame or firewall with the same screw the socket gets mounted with. makes for a much cleaner look instead of having to run another ground wire somewhere.

 

[jrsavoie]

I too like the relay sockets that mount rather than the relay that mounts. most of the time when I mount a relay, the ground for the relay gets grounded to the frame or firewall with the same screw the socket gets mounted with. makes for a much cleaner look instead of having to run another ground wire somewhere.

I most often run the grounds direct to the Allen screws on the battery side posts

 

[panran]

Thank you gentlemen I really appreciate all your help…I’m kind of space out right now just arrived in Colorado after 17 hours in a pickup truck sr5 2002 tundra extended cab with 2 huge dogs first time for them on road trip…they were excellent but every time I got out to gas up or use the bathroom or anything I had to wrestle them out of the drivers seat..but anyhow I am not able to work on the truck till I get back next year January February or maybe even march but believe me I’ll be reaching out when I get back…I actually miss wrenching on the b*tch already…thanks everyone happy holidays and happy new year

 

[MrMarty51]

Thank you gentlemen I really appreciate all your help…I’m kind of space out right now just arrived in Colorado after 17 hours in a pickup truck sr5 2002 tundra extended cab with 2 huge dogs first time for them on road trip…they were excellent but every time I got out to gas up or use the bathroom or anything I had to wrestle them out of the drivers seat..but anyhow I am not able to work on the truck till I get back next year January February or maybe even march but believe me I’ll be reaching out when I get back…I actually miss wrenching on the b*tch already…thanks everyone happy holidays and happy new year

If You have an innernet connection, jump in and give us a weather report from where You will be at.
I been so busy I dont remember if I welcomed You to the forum, if not then, welcome to thetruckstop.us
I just started a job a phew weeks ago, intense labor, just been too tired to want to go back and check so I just did it, maybe again.

 

[panran]

Hello, I got back in town a few days ago..had to rest a few days after long drive..well been gone about 8 months, longer than I expected, trying to remember where I left off…the engine still turns over so good there but no fuel to the return line (clear line)…so tomorrow I will get some clear line to try the ladder attack..a question..when I hook up to the ip inlet should I worry about fuel coming out of the hose from the fuel filter? And another question..when I turn off the ignition after trying to start I hear the lift pump still pumping for a few seconds..any concerns? Thanks panran

 

[ak diesel driver]

Unless you disable the lift pump it will still pump fuel. The lift pump will run after cranking until the oil pressure drops. That's a safety built in so fuel doesn't keep adding to a fire in case of a wreck.