• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Eye connectors

I’ve been reading a lot of threads on this and ran across one that mentioned if the truck wasn’t run in a while that the IP pump could be stuck and trying compressed air into the fuel outlet might free it up…would it be a good idea to shoot PB blaster in the outlet and let it sit?… or could I try to put a siphon pump on outlet and see if that pulls fuel? Trying not to do any damage. Thanks panran
 
I’ve been reading a lot of threads on this and ran across one that mentioned if the truck wasn’t run in a while that the IP pump could be stuck and trying compressed air into the fuel outlet might free it up…would it be a good idea to shoot PB blaster in the outlet and let it sit?… or could I try to put a siphon pump on outlet and see if that pulls fuel? Trying not to do any damage. Thanks panran
I wouldn't try starting with air at the injection pump.
I've seen a few having issues, usually along with an undiagnosed weak injection pump, suck air and be done forever.

That's why I hate when people recommend opening the T valve to check the lift pump.

A lot of times people suck air and they're done.

If you power the lift pump and crack the bleeder, you're not going to get near as much air intrusion, if any.

Sucking air into an injection pump is never good for anything, anyway
 
Thank you so much jr I didn’t want to get deeper into more trouble…sorry to say I was feeling a little played…I often play the old age and hs dropout thing but in the past had fractured skull from motorcycle accident and a couple concussions so my comprehension takes a little time..but anyhow thanks for looking out
 
I took the plunger off the fuel cutoff solenoid and there was a large spring in the well…is that supposed to be there?
Are you talking about the spring on the fuel shut down solenoid?

I seriously doubt that part is your problem.
From what I gathered, it did it's thing with power supplied.

I did have issues one fuel solenoid. But it was the connector.

I'm lost on what you've done.

Do you have fuel out the lift pump when jumpered?

These questions all pertain to fuel flow with the lift pump jumpered running and pumping.

Do you have fuel out of the fuel filter bleeder?

Do you have fuel out the drain T?

With the fuel shut off solenoid out - since you have it out anyway. Do you have a nasty fuel there?

Do you have fuel to each of those points?
 
I think I need to reboot my brain overnight…the coil spring in the picture below the solenoid..was under the solenoid in the IP …but tomorrow I was going to get a fuel pressure gauge to see if I am getting enough pressure to the IP …can I hook the gauge up to the T valve and get a reading?
 
Search fuel pressure gauge. There's been lots of discussion.

I don't remember the fitting going to the IP.

Maybe AN6?

If you do the search, you should find fuel pressure gauge T's.

Just install one at the Injection Pump inlet and be done
 
Fuel Pressure at the T-Valve at the thermostat housing will work as jrsavoie stated. It is actually post FFM, runs pretty much under the IP and the lines are 1/4" inner diam.
1714233457135.png

If you're looking to install a permanent gauge pre-IP / Post FFM here's a brass T-Block idea. Multiple barbs for upgrade to 3/8" later. Lets get it running first.
IMG_1580.JPGIMG_1581.JPGIMG_1578.JPG
Never mind about the missing FFM in my pictures, I've taken it out for an aftermarket set up w/ a better filter.
 
Thank all of you for the feedback..if I get it to start I’ll be doing a lot of upgrades…rebooted the brain somewhat and thought start at square one..put a pressure gauge at the T and got about 6 pounds so I think I can eliminate the LP and OPS …cranked it a few more times and nothing at the clear outlet hose so thought what the heck, I pulled the hose off the outlet and cranked it and I think it was a good surprise I’ll post pics…recharging the batteries right now.. I bought them last spring from TSC 800 cold cranking amps and took them out while I was gone and keep charging them after 6-8 cranks..if I need to can I give them a boost off my running truck? Well here are the pics.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1028.jpeg
    IMG_1028.jpeg
    143.1 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_1029.jpeg
    IMG_1029.jpeg
    145.5 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_1030.jpeg
    IMG_1030.jpeg
    168.2 KB · Views: 6
If I am seeing your pics correctly it looks like you have a lot of air with a little fuel coming from the return fitting where you pulled the hose from.

have you tried disconnecting the hose at the inlet of the IP and sticking the end into a empty soda bottle, then running the LP (not cranking) and see if the fuel is solid stream with no air, or a mix of air and fuel?

maybe do this and record a video to post here? (upload to youtube and share the link here is best method)
 
@Will L. or @ak diesel driver help me out with this one... if he has a good solid stream of fuel coming from the hose at the IP inlet, if he was to take the fitting on the IP for the return and unscrew it out of the top of the IP, would fuel flow through and out just by turning the LP on? I know that fitting has a glass check ball in there that also regulates IP housing pressure when running (5-10 psi iirc) but by removing it would this sort if "prefill" and bleed out an empty IP?

@panran do not do this unless Will or ak diesel driver say it's worth a try. it's not something normally done, but was thinking that if this IP has sat up where the fuel might be gelled up inside the IP plugging the check valve in the return fitting.
 
I know on the dB2 IPs you could break out the check ball as a get you home fix but the IP was in it's death throes and coming apart internally which is what caused the clog. I doubt it would hurt anything to remove the fitting and cycle the LP.
 
Back
Top