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extra large oil filter installed.....

It's called a 2qt filter but I don't think it actually holds 2 quarts. Just grab a 2 quart moonshine (oops Brandy) jug and throw 'er alongside and see...:rof:
 
Hmmm we got a filter media manufacturer here and I was a DM 4 Southern States and we sold our own brand of Coop filters and oil and if I remember right they told me some oil filters dont have a bypass cause the media is enginered when stopped up to allow a hole to come in it and form a bypass that way. U know the bypass is there for a reason so u still have some oil flowing, not sure I like the idea of no bypass and no anti drain back, Anybody wanna explain why not having those is a good thing?????
 
My last oil change I used the Wix 51794 from Oreilly's for $14. I wanted to use the Baldwin B7 but, they are expensive.

It is listed for the 2wd HD 6.5 on the website. I do not remember the years.

It was at least twice the size of the normal filter I used last time.

I have a post on here somewhere about it.
 
It doesnt need anti-drainback, because it is vertical, unless you park on 60 degree inclines I dont think there will be an issue. Thats part of the reason 4wd couldnt use this kind in particular if it would even fit horizontal. I may be wrong but does the filter adapter on the block have its own bypass? I think these extra features in the filter probably just make it more prone to issues.
 
buddy, do you think there is any chance of siphoning? that is the only reason I could think of that one would want an anti-drainback valve on a 2wd GMT400, or any rig for that matter with a vertically hanging filter.

orrum, while you are at it, add the 4L80E part to your signature, engine, transmission and drive type are the top three in any signature.
 
Gotcha buddy and GM GUY! While we on oil stuff. Its hot here, about average of 95 for months, but is really 100 plus with humidity and that ashalt throws all that heat up on the engine. For my oil change for the rest of the summer should I use 15-40 or some other like maybe 10-30 or whatever diesel oils come in? Somewhere I saw hot weather southern people use straight 30. What u all think?
 
10w-30 is too light, I would go with the 15w-40 myself, the 30w may cut it though.
orrum said:
Gotcha buddy and GM GUY! While we on oil stuff. Its hot here, about average of 95 for months, but is really 100 plus with humidity and that ashalt throws all that heat up on the engine. For my oil change for the rest of the summer should I use 15-40 or some other like maybe 10-30 or whatever diesel oils come in? Somewhere I saw hot weather southern people use straight 30. What u all think?
Click to expand...
 
How cold does it get in North Carolina? I wouldn't run anything thinner than 15w-40. I run 30wt Delo-400 in most stuff down here in Texas, but it usually gets above 32ºF most days in winter. The 6.2/6.5's oil runs pretty hot, prolly 300ºF in summer and 250ºF on cold days in winter down here. I've seen more crank/cam wear down here on 15w-40 than 30wt, but 15w-40 seams to have a little better cylinder wear(guess it being thinner, it lubes the rings a little more).

Remember the bigger the spread in the multigrade numbers the quicker the additive package that makes it multigrade will break down.
 
About like u Plowboy it seldom freezes ice on the water trough that doesnt melt away after sunrise. Some winters I never have to break ice for the horses. So is 30 Delo a synthetic? My truck shows 294000 and at a idle in gear when up to operating temp it only has about 17 lbs oil pressure, guessing at that cause the factory gauge is hard to figure.
 
Chevron makes some in Delo syn, kinda hard to find though in stock.

The common Delo-400 15w-40 and 30wt is dino. Figured if it was good enough for my dad and CAT to use, its good enough for me. To me its the closest to synthetic as you can get at 1/3 the price.

http://www.chevronlubricants.com/products/diesel-gasoline-engine-oils.aspx

http://www.deloperformance.com/products/engine-oils.aspx

Shell Rotella is good oil and usually easier to find. I run it in a few things that the previous owner had always run Rotella so I just kept them the same. They have an easier to find partial syn too, never tried it though.

Mobil Delvac is supposed to be good, never have used it.

Dont think you can go wrong with any of them.

I dont think syn is worth it unless you can filter all the particles out so you can run extended oil drains, you can prolly run all the above dino oils more than 10,000 miles and the oil analysis would come back good except for the particles in the oil. Syn is good for cold starts though, especially where it gets real cold. I'd stick with dino until you see how much oil your engine will use, plus the more blowby you have the quicker your oil is going to get dirty. Also 6.2/6.5's dont have many oil related failures. I put syn in my 93 and it outlasted the engine, lol.

I ran Amsoil synthetic 15w-40 in my 93 with there bypass filter setup, it wasn't any cheaper to run changing at 25,000 miles for me, since my truck used some oil. That said, I'm putting Amsoil in the Cummins thats going back in the 93. Its nice not changing oil as often.
 
ak diesel driver said:
so what does it turn into? 15w or 40w?
Click to expand...

IIRC, 15w-40 is a 15wt basestock with additives to make it perform and protect like a 40wt when hot. When the additives break down you dont have that protection, the bigger the weight spread the more the additive is relied on. Oil really dont break down, its been around for millions of years, the additives do. Something like that, its been 20 years since that class.
 
orrum said:
Hmmm we got a filter media manufacturer here and I was a DM 4 Southern States and we sold our own brand of Coop filters and oil and if I remember right they told me some oil filters dont have a bypass cause the media is enginered when stopped up to allow a hole to come in it and form a bypass that way. U know the bypass is there for a reason so u still have some oil flowing, not sure I like the idea of no bypass and no anti drain back, Anybody wanna explain why not having those is a good thing?????
Click to expand...

There is no need for a bypass valve in the filter because the block has one. I could be wrong, but I think virtually every vehicle made now has a bypass valve on the engine. As other have said, no need for a drainback valve when the filter is mounted with the opening at the top. The oil can't drain anywhere. Just FYI, some people disable the bypass valve, wanting the oil to always go through the filter. However, in the event of a plugged filter, you can end up with reduced or no oil. I would rather have dirty oil than no oil at all, so I retain the bypass in all my vehicles.

Also, here in Florida it gets pretty hot and I have been using Rotella T 15W-40 since the Suburban was new. With front & rear air going I have never had an oil problem.

In addition, I have been using the Purolator L40084 for the last 150,000 miles or so. According to Purolator, its 8.58" long, the standard filter is 4.24" long. So it very well may hold 2 quarts.
 
Thanks Bobbie thats a bigger filter than the Wix one. Wonder which auto store carries Purolator? Sounds like Rotella 15-40 is me.
 
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