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External oil cooler vs internal rad one....

DieselCash said:
I can find Duramax's around here for that price. There is a 2003 C3500 CC Dually LT fully decked out with 214K for $12,995.
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214 Thousand Miles, thats a lot of trips to Grandma's house......How does the D-Max crowd (or any crowd, for that matter) feel about spending $13,000 (Thirteen Thousand Dollars) on a truck that has 214k ("Two Hundred Fourteen Thousand Miles") on it?

Marty, that's a Crew Cab, (4 Door, Sedan) not a Cab & Chasis.......Correct?
 
Kenny, are you running Delco 190-195* T Stats???............Try some RobertShaw 180*.....John sells them, just add it to your order, for a $30-$40 dollar bill, it'll be money well spent....Don't think about it, Just put them in, at this point it sure CAN'T hurt........It'll give you a 10-15* degree head start.
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
214 Thousand Miles, thats a lot of trips to Grandma's house......How does the D-Max crowd (or any crowd, for that matter) feel about spending $13,000 (Thirteen Thousand Dollars) on a truck that has 214k ("Two Hundred Fourteen Thousand Miles") on it?

Marty, that's a Crew Cab, (4 Door, Sedan) not a Cab & Chasis.......Correct?
Click to expand...

Crew cab not a cab and chassis here is a link:

http://killeen.craigslist.org/ctd/2496061960.html

I was wrong, 218K miles.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Yeah 2wd no good around here. Gotta be 4x4.
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you ain't kidding. I knew my pickup was going to be crappy in the snow, but i didn't think it would be as utterly worthless in the snow as it turned out to be. I think it's just so much torque at low RPM(versus a gasser) that the wheels just break what little traction they had and spin up a storm.

My K-5 is an animal in the snow. I went around this past winter trying to get it stuck on my days off. Never could.
 
Its that damn automatic! :) I can get my 91 gasser stuck, but I have to try. if its a road, she'll go, but of course we never get alot of snow. I have noticed the automatic 2wds suck in snow worse than manual 2wd. I guess the sheer torque multiplication, and lack of ability to command a shift. usually I can just upshift and she'll walk out of the hole.

I wouldnt be afraid of miles, its all how its taken care of. got a buddy who had a 40K 07 PSD that has seen more abuse in his few months of owning it than the current owner will put it through in a lifetime. I found a 06 (so the lly computer on the LBZ motor) for 7 grand that has 450K or so on it. long chassis cab, but the aweful 2wd. since I found it, you know its a ZF6 truck as well.
 
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we got 30 inches of snow in one clip...2wd...no good...:D
CUCV power to the rescue. That CUCV earned it money this winter. I gave it the summer off...:rof:
It was so bad I had to put custom made chains on 35 inch tires to get through it.
 
Acesneights1 said:
we got 30 inches of snow in one clip...2wd...no good...:D
CUCV power to the rescue. That CUCV earned it money this winter. I gave it the summer off...:rof:
It was so bad I had to put custom made chains on 35 inch tires to get through it.
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Ha i remember that. Didn't you get stuck plowing your mothers driveway when you needed the chains? I'm amazed that truck got stuck.

I think the reason mine wouldn't get stuck was because of the manual. I could control speed entirely with the trans and compression braking, not having to lock the wheels up and slide all over.

Only thing that went wrong was the asshat in the middle of the road i had to swerve to avoid. Ended up sideways in a snowbank up to my headlights, with a busted driver's taillight, bent in 2 rear bumper(that bumper was brand new too!) from an innocent motorist coming the other way. Guy that caused me to swerve by being 1/2 way in my lane, no where to be found. Figures really.
 
Maybe I missed it early on in this thread but, what are you running for a water pump? You have something major wrong that a new radiator won't keep it from overheating. Maybe a 6.2 v-belt pump? or missing vanes on the impeller?
My 92 that I'm doing all my heavy towing with is all stock[clutch, fan, water pump,and radiator. The only thing I have done is remove the A/C condenser. I can't get it past 190 pulling 10,000 equipment trailer in 90+ temps. It's a automatic also. Maybe something overlooked or assumed to be good?
 
Or maybe somebody put the wrong thermostat in it, and it is not blocking the bypass. It needs to have that extra part sticking out of the bottom of it with a little plate on it to block the bypass when it opens. That prevents hot water from going back to the engine to get hotter.

Its odd that the fan did lock up before 220F before, because normally they wouldnt stock, but after modding the coil it wont lock up at all. That really just tells me its not heating up, not getting hot air over it to cause it to lock up. Thicker radiator that doesnt shed heat as well might be why. Not enough air going right at it maybe.

Does this vehilce have a fan shroud?
 
Yes, to answer all the questions,
It's my 98 Burb, has the better 4 bolt waterpump
No idea what thermostats but was under the impression that GM specific thermostats were not that important in the dual thermostat setups which is what I have. Is that in correct ? I know you need the GM one for single stat setups.
It has the factory shroud although i did need to trim it a bit for the dmax fan which I have never had to do before so I suspect my mysterious vibration is a bad motor mount as I only had to trim the drivers side of the shroud and the pass side had mucho clearance.
I put the alum rad back in the burb. The Kennedy Clutch should be here in a few days.
IN the interim I am going to put the copper 4 core into the 93 as well as upgrade the WP to a 99+ and a Hayden 2840 with a 9 blade steel that I recycled from the burb. It should be fine in the 93 as the only way I would ever tow with it is if the burb breaks down and I need to get the camper home as Dad's Superduty is no longer available for rescues...:D
 
OK.....So the the Hayden and the D-Max blade in the rig was PROVEN today......93* degrees driving all day and I just came from the scale where I waited 20 min. at Idle.....VERDICT= My A/C was ICE cold the whole time and I couldn't get past 185-190* degrees on my temp gauge......It's the blade, and the Hayden is nice too......Kicks on around 190* and shuts right down after about 180-185*......No more extended lock up like the kennedy clutch, the combo is very impressive.
 
before you give up and get an excursion (which with your luck, the ford auto will puke. remember that now! :D ) I personally would call uncle and get the full Heath setup with that 88894035 balance flow pump. maybe even a new radiator that is exact fit for the application, as it would seem that your brass one would work, but apparently this application is happier with the plastic/aluminum. I feel that that balanced flow pump is the ticket, as I havent even cleaned my radiator, and my fan clutch has never came on my 99.5 C3500, and it holds under 200 on the flat. hills, she goes up, but I back out and all is well. but that is 5 speed, so Turbine Doc's theory on keeping the trans cool may also be the ticket.

There are still stones unturned Kenny, dont give up till you turn them all! :)

my plan for each one of my rigs is to get:
88894035 balance flow pump
9 blade OEM steel fan
whatever damn clutch, as a system should only rely on the clutch as a last resort, IMHO should never be on on the flat, unless headwind, etc.
genuine GM ac delco t-stat (s) keeping singles on trucks with them already
fully cleaned original radiator, replace with new or good used if damaged.
under bumper airdam, to reduce under vehicle pressure
stock rubber, for lower ride height, and lower under vehicle pressure.

also, indirectly related,
full diamond eye 4 inch systems. possibly straight piped! :)
round OEM aircleaners,
GM8s
and Amsoil all around!

hopefully that expensive-ass list will make them last for a long time and get good MPGs, and stay cool

sorry for thinking/dreaming aloud, it doesnt help you a damn bit, and I dont have enough money to do it anyways! :)
 
I am getting disoriented, this thread is awesome. What fan can I get from a junkyard that will be better on my truck? Ace I cant see thru the antifreezee to count the tubes but will syphon some out, more water is better anyway????
 
orrum said:
I am getting disoriented, this thread is awesome. What fan can I get from a junkyard that will be better on my truck? Ace I cant see thru the antifreezee to count the tubes but will syphon some out, more water is better anyway????
Click to expand...
Your running a serpentine belt correct ?
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
OK.....So the the Hayden and the D-Max blade in the rig was PROVEN today......93* degrees driving all day and I just came from the scale where I waited 20 min. at Idle.....VERDICT= My A/C was ICE cold the whole time and I couldn't get past 185-190* degrees on my temp gauge......It's the blade, and the Hayden is nice too......Kicks on around 190* and shuts right down after about 180-185*......No more extended lock up like the kennedy clutch, the combo is very impressive.
Click to expand...

Yeah but your under different circumstances. I realize you obviously "tow" but towing a camper up long hard grades is where my problems lie.
 
GM Guy said:
before you give up and get an excursion (which with your luck, the ford auto will puke. remember that now! :D ) I personally would call uncle and get the full Heath setup with that 88894035 balance flow pump. maybe even a new radiator that is exact fit for the application, as it would seem that your brass one would work, but apparently this application is happier with the plastic/aluminum. I feel that that balanced flow pump is the ticket, as I havent even cleaned my radiator, and my fan clutch has never came on my 99.5 C3500, and it holds under 200 on the flat. hills, she goes up, but I back out and all is well. but that is 5 speed, so Turbine Doc's theory on keeping the trans cool may also be the ticket.

There are still stones unturned Kenny, dont give up till you turn them all! :)

my plan for each one of my rigs is to get:
88894035 balance flow pump
9 blade OEM steel fan
whatever damn clutch, as a system should only rely on the clutch as a last resort, IMHO should never be on on the flat, unless headwind, etc.
genuine GM ac delco t-stat (s) keeping singles on trucks with them already
fully cleaned original radiator, replace with new or good used if damaged.
under bumper airdam, to reduce under vehicle pressure
stock rubber, for lower ride height, and lower under vehicle pressure.

also, indirectly related,
full diamond eye 4 inch systems. possibly straight piped! :)
round OEM aircleaners,
GM8s
and Amsoil all around!

hopefully that expensive-ass list will make them last for a long time and get good MPGs, and stay cool

sorry for thinking/dreaming aloud, it doesnt help you a damn bit, and I dont have enough money to do it anyways! :)
Click to expand...

AFAIK the 98 WP is also balanced, just not spin on although I do have a spin on WP but the reason I did not put it on is I want to try the Kennedy Clutch and it only works on the 4 bolt pump. I was thinking about it today...I couldn't give a rats ass about that Suburban, I could part with it but my 93...I do love that 5 spd mech inj...I'll try the Kennedy clutch. The rad in the burb is in excellent condition and I see no reason to replace it but I would be curious to know how thick everyones rad core is ? My 93 is only 1 1/4 my Burb is 2 1/4 . even though it's 2 row it is the same core thickness as the 4 core..Hmmmm....Buddy may be onto something with the airflow through the core on a 2 row alum vs 4 row copper. That is the only logic I can put and it would explain the clutch delay if the airflow is not sending heat the coils way..I'll know in a few days because the Kennedy Clutch should be here hopefully but thursday and it's going to be 105 degs so that will be a test for sure. I am still looking at an '03 Cummins though. Found one cheap.

I can tell you this much, If I blow that Burb up you can bet a a P pump 12v will be going in it with an NV4500.
 
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