Emmott's Initiation

[Will L.]

Yeah, the “magic” of arp lube is the amazing consistency for torque even compared to engine oil. So another material that happens to lubricate might not be consistent like the arp stuff.

Yes, the nordlocks are something I am in love with. Problem is they create more resistance when tightening. If I had realized this issue when I was doing all the stud torque to clamp load testing, I would have done another round with the nordlocks to determine what rotational torque is required to make it work- MEGA UPSET I didn’t do it.

 

[emmott]

Can you get the cylinder's back at some point?

 

[FellowTraveler]

Yeah, the “magic” of arp lube is the amazing consistency for torque even compared to engine oil. So another material that happens to lubricate might not be consistent like the arp stuff.

Yes, the nordlocks are something I am in love with. Problem is they create more resistance when tightening. If I had realized this issue when I was doing all the stud torque to clamp load testing, I would have done another round with the nordlocks to determine what rotational torque is required to make it work- MEGA UPSET I didn’t do it.

I suspect NORD has been there and done that with the high end locks...

 

[Will L.]

Nordlock said no exact formula, Have to test.

I don’t think I could get it back. I have the stud mount for 12mm and 10 mm still.
I would be happy to ship them and some studs to the other guy if he could test if he can.
Not sure he would be able to or has the time/desire. He went out if his way and risked things to make that happen before.
If he could send it back, I would surely do that testing.

 

[emmott]

I’m glad your shop guy got back to you Will! I guess I’ll have to try nordlocks next build. Either way I’m glad to have a torque value to rest easy about.

Spent the day doing bolt-ons. Might get it under the hood tomorrow.

 

[Will L.]

Man that build is looking awesome!
He isn’t a shop guy I know- He is a member here that chooses to remain silent about who he is.

the nordlocks can be awesome, but lockwire keeps airplanes and space craft safe, so...

 

[FellowTraveler]

Man that build is looking awesome!
He isn’t a shop guy I know- He is a member here that chooses to remain silent about who he is.

the nordlocks can be awesome, but lockwire keeps airplanes and space craft safe, so...

I use NORDS everywhere from trans pan to converter to flex-plate fasteners...
Search surplus vendors for inconal and other aviation fasteners usually drilled for safety wire.

 

[emmott]

Got the cooling system together and started it today. Used a drill to prelube the oil, shunted the lift pump to run and purged air from the FFM.
I then turned the engine over with the glow plugs out and loosened any injection lines loose that I could reach (1,3,5,7).
Once that was done I crushed up a few cooling system sealant tablets and filled it up with dexcool.
It fired up surprisingly fast. The gapless rings, 0000 gauge battery cables, powermaster starter, and two 4D batteries really made it start easy.
I only ran it for about two minutes, enough to purge air from the cooling system and listen for odd sounds.
I will hopefully have time next weekend to TDCO learn, time set, put the bumper and grille on and start breaking the engine in.
My plan is to haul a wagon full of hay bails down gravel roads for about 4 hours. From what I read diesels need to work to break in properly.

 

[Jaryd]

You don’t have another one of them dual alternator brackets that you would sell do you?

 

[MrMarty51]

You don’t have another one of them dual alternator brackets that you would sell do you?

Yeah, I was eyeballing that too.

 

[emmott]

@Jaryd @MrMarty51 no sorry.
I had it made a few years ago by the person who posted a DIY here. It was two pieces of sheet metal jigsawed and arc welded together with m10 & m12 holes drilled. I tapped another m12 hole for the vacuum pump delete and got a larger pulley so I could use the same belt length as the stock ambulance package.
I could flatbed scan my piece to scale on PDF, you could print them to letter paper at 100% scale on your printer and make one yourself from that.

 

[MrMarty51]

No need for that PDF for Me. I dont have a printer and, it seems anymore, less can sometimes be better.
There once was a time, I would have jumped right on a project like that.
I tell people, I dont know if I got tired or if I got layzeee.

 

[Jaryd]

@Jaryd @MrMarty51 no sorry.
I had it made a few years ago by the person who posted a DIY here. It was two pieces of sheet metal jigsawed and arc welded together with m10 & m12 holes drilled. I tapped another m12 hole for the vacuum pump delete and got a larger pulley so I could use the same belt length as the stock ambulance package.
I could flatbed scan my piece to scale on PDF, you could print them to letter paper at 100% scale on your printer and make one yourself from that.

if you don’t mind scanning it that would be great. I can get our metal shop to cut it out for me. My email is [email protected]

 

[FellowTraveler]

I can tell you, the belt for the two gen/alt setup lasts way longer than the single gen/alt belt...

 

[MrMarty51]

if you don’t mind scanning it that would be great. I can get our metal shop to cut it out for me. My email is [email protected]

Would the shop be intereste in carving out a few extras ?

 

[Jaryd]

Would the shop be intereste in carving out a few extras ?

Yeah, they would cut as many as I wanted

 

[emmott]

I'm out of town until next weekend, will make a scan and post it then.

 

[Jaryd]

I'm out of town until next weekend, will make a scan and post it then.

Thanks man

 

[emmott]

Looks like my crankshaft pulley is out of alignment. Too far in. Is it possible to over insert a harmonic balancer?
Not sure if there’s supposed to be a gap from the crank snout to the balancer but with a torque of 200 ft-lbs it would be hard to leave one.
Or is there some kind of shim? Not sure what to do as the same parts in are front of the crank about as before the rebuild.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Did you leave out the reluctor?