Emmott's Initiation

[emmott]

The reluctor was installed

 

[MrMarty51]

Did you leave out the reluctor?

That was My first thought too.
Thats just weird that with all components installed that the pulleys would be misaligned like that.

 

[emmott]

I just pulled the balancer outwards enough that the pulley would line up ok, then tightened the balancer bolt as tight as it could go without sucking the balancer any farther back in. Seems to work ok as a temp fix. I'll find something like this to shim the balancer off the reluctor later. I have to measure the crank snout of a 6.5, hopefully it's the same as a SBC/BBC so an off the shelf gas shim will work.

 

[emmott]

@Jaryd The PDF attachments can be printed at 100% scale to 8.5x11" paper and used as a stencil for anyone who wants to make pieces using 1/4" plate, a jigsaw, drill, tap, and arc welder. Actually, between the bracket holes and the pulley hole one might get away without needing the welder either.

Both pieces for the second alternator are 1/4" steel arc welded together with 12mm holes.

I drilled and tapped a few M12 pulley holes until I found a spot that fit the ambulance package belt length, despite having no vacuum pump anymore. The notch I cut into the bracket was so I could remove another bolt without having to remove the bracket first.

 

[emmott]

Found out the hard way 90 ft-lbs is not enough torque for ARP head studs.
ARP instructions said 90, but after some research it looks like I should have gone to 125.
I re-confirmed the decks are square, so I’m sure it was because of insufficient torque.



While I have it apart again, I’m going to O-Ring the block so it’s less likely to blow another gasket.

QUESTION: If I pull the pistons to cut the o-ring groove, will I have to re-hone the cylinders? I only have 15,000 km on the engine since the rebuild, looks like there is still a decent crosshatch (see pic). Will I have to do another break-in?

 

[MrMarty51]

Found out the hard way 90 ft-lbs is not enough torque for ARP head studs.
ARP instructions said 90, but after some research it looks like I should have gone to 125.
I re-confirmed the decks are square, so I’m sure it was because of insufficient torque.
View attachment 73284


While I have it apart again, I’m going to O-Ring the block so it’s less likely to blow another gasket.

QUESTION: If I pull the pistons to cut the o-ring groove, will I have to re-hone the cylinders? I only have 15,000 km on the engine since the rebuild, looks like there is still a decent crosshatch (see pic). Will I have to do another break-in?
View attachment 73285

No, do not rehone the cylinders. The rough is wore off and You do not want to start that process over again. Break in has been accomplished.
I have OHd engines with real nice smooth cylinder walls, no gouges or scratches, never honed the cylinders. New rings and put them together. Once the prelube oil was burned off, they had never smoked, used oil or had any blow by at all and they are still on the road to this day without problems.

 

[ak diesel driver]

If you happen to have a spare old block I'd put a couple of studs in them along with a old head and torque it to the 125 before I did it to a good engine. Seems like the brothers in Canada were doing that and had a little mushrooming around the stud going on.

 

[emmott]

If you happen to have a spare old block

nope unfortunately. Already used my junk 141 block for target practice

Maybe I’ll do 110 ft-lbs, with the o-rings it should hold

 

[Will L.]

Did you have a torque plate used in machine shop when finishing block and head deck surfaces?
You absolutely better if going to 120.
What gaskets?

 

[emmott]

Did you have a torque plate

I’ll ask my machinist if they did.

What gaskets?

Mahle +.010”. Heads were decked once before.

 

[emmott]

I noticed low oil pressure at hot idle. ~8 psi, just enough to trigger the check gauges light when braking while turning.

The inner cam bearings look scuffed so I’ll replace them and install the cam more carefully next time.


I heard a rattle after a couple rotations of the block on my engine stand. I pulled the pan and saw the oil pickup tube fell out of the pump. It looks unscathed. I doubt it fell out while the motor was running, but clearly permatex max temp thread sealant did not bond well enough. Next time I may try JB Weld.

 

[MrMarty51]

Oh My goodness. I had never ever heard of a pickup screen falling off, in any circumstances.

Yeah, JB Weld. That and drill a hole all the way through, an area where the drill bit will protrude out the other side. Use about a 3/16ths bit, and, a 3/16ths cotter key that reaches all the way through and bend it i er so it can not back out.

 

[EWC]

I don't think I would do that . The pump could then suck air if the pump is not below the oil . Some of the Moroso pumps had a small tab welded on the pickup which then went to one of the 4 pump bolts . Also , when using the ARP studs it is critical to use the assembly lube . Without the lube the torque is lower than required to preload the studs .

 

[btfarm]

I've always pinned the pickup tube to the pump with a 1/8 roll pin but a cotter pin is a good alternative as well.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I always tack welded them in place

 

[MrMarty51]

I've always pinned the pickup tube to the pump with a 1/8 roll pin but a cotter pin is a good alternative as well.

I have seen the suction tube of the pickup screen held in position with a roll pin and in another instance a cotter key.
The hole was to a size that the cotter key fit quite snugly.
I can not remember what brand of a pump that was. Too much bridge under the water between then and now.

 

[Will L.]

Yeah- this IS common. Not just for this engine.
Absolutely worth taking to someone that can tig it in place if you can’t.

Remember when installing a screen to set the depth by rotating the tube in the pump, then make a ‘timing mark’ by scoring across the tube and the pump.

My concern with jb weld is it only takes a tiny piece to flake off and that will go straight through the screen and eat bearings for lunch.

 

[jrsavoie]

Yeah- this IS common. Not just for this engine.
Absolutely worth taking to someone that can tig it in place if you can’t.

Remember when installing a screen to set the depth by rotating the tube in the pump, then make a ‘timing mark’ by scoring across the tube and the pump.

My concern with jb weld is it only takes a tiny piece to flake off and that will go straight through the screen and eat bearings for lunch.

How does one Tig weld when the torch seems to be making 1/2" diameter circles?

Didn't used to have that problem.

 

[MrMarty51]

How does one Tig weld when the torch seems to be making 1/2" diameter circles?

Didn't used to have that problem.

Have to get someone younger and with a more steady hand to hold duh torcher. Oooops, I meant torch.

 

[MrMarty51]

My dad used to shake terrible bad. One day this old timer that owned his own transmission shop, He was righting a part number for Me. He asked why I thought His hands shakes so much. I mentioned, do You remember how many times You was in solvent cleaning parts until Your hands and arms was numb to the armpits. Why yes I do remember doing that. Told Him most likely nerve damage, My dad used to shake like that too. Now when I’m driving, the left hand starts to shake like that when it is perched on the steer wheel.