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Dead 1998 K1500

Post a sound clip of the engine cranking.

Ether isn't all that bad. Just give if a whif while having someone crank it, or vice versa.

In my experience, WD40 doesn't do anything. If the engine is low on compression, everything has to be perfect injection and glow wise for it to start.
 
Where are you guys squirting the fluid? I take the intake apart enough so I squirt it right in. It doesn't seem to take much at all. And it always gives me a little rumble.
 
I was doing an ip replacement on our old 6.2 and I got a bum ip from an ebay seller. Any way I fianlly got it to run but it took 2 of us. 1 person cranking and the other person spraying directly into the intake. It finally ran but it was spraying both wd40 and ether at the same time and quite a bit of it. Ended up having to take ip back off and getting a replacement. My point with this long story is if your ip isn't helping out with a decent amount of fuel it takes quite a bit of spray to make up for it.
 
Again - using ether correctly won't cause issues...

Gotta disable the glows and use two people to do it properly...
 
ether - use very little. I started a 6.2 several times with this as the glow system in 1990... I can't recall the system ever working properly long on that rig.

The above is correct. If the ether stops the engine your starting system is the problem. (Dead batts, broken brush in the starter, bad wires/connections.)

In this case ether is a diagnostic tool. The smoke from the crankcase is a concern for internal damage, low compression, etc. (After review of your pic - oops..) So if you get it to fire on the juice you eliminate several possibilities.

Is it possible to have the IP timed 180 out? Bad rebuild or otherwise?
 
I received a brand new CPS, that I plugged on the truck. Disconnect all PCM plugs and grounded the positive cables of batteries (disconnected of course) so as to clear everything in PCM
Left CTS disconnected.

She start, and ran for 30 seconds, .... then stall again, and never restart.

But the batteries were obviously too weak, and the IP might be not properly aligned (to much retard)

We'll try again later with full charged batteries and re-aligned IP.

Cross fingers and pray for us, I believe the delivrance is close:fing02:
 
Well, we'll try again this evening after the batteries have recovered.

Yesterday we tried again and killed batteries again trying to start this :soapbox truck.
Though, it seems that with the IP completely set at passenger side (most possible retard), it looks like she will go and run.... but batteries were too weak.

When he tried to himself to start her, the owner used "start pilot" sparay can.

Let's imagine the owner put too much "star pilot" , could it be possible he creates enough damage inside so it is now necessary to retard the IP ?

In that case, should we move the IP gear one tooth late ? :confused::confused:
 
buddy said:
With the new IP are you getting any new codes? Are you able to verify you actually connect to the PCM with the scanner and get other data? If so I wouldnt think the PCM is the issue.

Time to pull out the multimeter and check some PMD signals. Verify the power is actually there with the Ignition on, thats pin D. Pin F should be ground. Check that at pin C is a ground (that goes back to the PCM to determine closure). Then probe pin A while cranking and there needs to be at least 1.2V there, this is the fuel inject signal from the PCM.
Click to expand...

Have you been able to connect to the PCM with a scanner? Not a single code saved in it? How about checking to see if these voltages are at the PMD, these are checked with the PMD unplugged.
 
Yes, the laptop is able to connect and exchange with the PCM, but there's not a single code stored.

I bet this is normal as we conect/disconnect batteries so many times for recharging them.

DP on the other site suggested me to check the gear keys on IP gear and camshaft. I must confess I didn't check seriously enough this path...
 
Well guys, I think we are approaching the end of the story, at least of the 1st "season".

With the help of a second truck, she finally start.

They connected in parallel the batteries of the other truck, rev the engine and cranck.
With the extra power, the starter did spin very strong and she starts, coughing, sputtering, in a HUGE black cloud of smoke and particles (intake was pulled out).

We kept her running for a while, shut down and cranck. She restarted.

She is now running, starting almost fine, but boy, she is clattering as hell.

I did perform IP timing. Did several times, going from -.05 to -1.88 TDCO, no change, and it's obvious there's a lack of power.

It seems that with the IP completely set to passenger side (maximum retard) the engine smoothen, idles quiet and get awaken :eek:

Following DP advice (from other place), I did recommend the guys to pull ther front of engine and check the cranckshaft pulley key, to verify it hasn't sheared.

The guys agree this could be the reason of the hard start issue, but prefered to start with parallel batteries before.

So, they finally succeed in starting her, but I still believe there's a problem remaining.

If it was mine, I would have checked this cranckshaft key....
 
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I think DP is probably right if it you have to retard it that much to run.
 
Did you ever try unplugging optical sensor and or crank position sensor to see if it would still run? might have a bad sensor
 
I agree w/ AK. Pull the OS and see how she runs. I didn't knowthat if you disco the cps it will still run.
 
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