• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Dead 1998 K1500

OK, we changed the accelerator pedal assy, key on key off 3 times.

We now get fuel at the injectors, but still no start, though it seems the engine may possibly start if the starter should be able to spin faster. Batteries are may be getting weaker (they are new) or the starter itself is dying.

So now, fuel at injectors, smoke at exhaust, even smoke inside cranckase (see pic :confused: ) but still no start.
DSC03757.jpg

We put the batteries in load for the night and we'll see what goes on tomorrow.

Here are the pics of the mod I found on the ECM harness. The green wire (#6) on the smallest brown plug has been cut and appears to be fed by a 12 volts source.

DSC03752.jpg DSC03750.jpg DSC03747.jpg

Any can tell what is this wire for ? Should I better cut that and restore harness as stock ?
 
What would lead you to the pedal being a problem? Is there no codes?

That green wire looks to be coming from the VSSB module and may be the speedo input, maybe they found it was broken somewhere and rigged it. Someone with a manual for the OBDII should be able to answer that pretty quick.
 
Looks like a fusable link may have popped for that bypass to be run.

Shifting to 4x4 may have burned out a fusible link.

Do you get a SES light at key on? AKA power to the ECM...

The smoke may be from wires or the starter burning up. Can you get a RPM reading while cranking from a light triggered hand scanner etc?
 
96 OILBURNER said:
If that wire is on pin A6, it goes to the VSSB according to my simple manual. Must have been pinched or broken.
Click to expand...

If that is the case than is is not +12V. Leave that "bypass" wire fix alone - after all it ran with it.

This leads to looking at failed wiring. From a connector at the ECM to a vibration failure on wire somewhere.

Still the smoke is a concern in the engine compartment.
 
buddy said:
What would lead you to the pedal being a problem? Is there no codes?

That green wire looks to be coming from the VSSB module and may be the speedo input, maybe they found it was broken somewhere and rigged it. Someone with a manual for the OBDII should be able to answer that pretty quick.
Click to expand...

VSSB is the circuit board that accepts speed sensor input and converts it to the digital signal to run the speedo and tell PCM what the speed is. It is not causing the problem.

have you checked the voltages at the PMD connector yet?
 
Not yet Buddy. I will go back to the truck this evening and we will continue investigating. Hopefully my father in law will have put back all stuff on the engine (he took everything out to check chain and gear alignment for timing)

what leads me to the pedal assy was my father in law souvenir : he remembered that he had to face this kind of problem on Volvo heavy trucks.

The fact is that now we have fuel at injectors and smoke at exhaust, but still no start...
 
No heat to make fire? :) Probably not a PMD signal issue then if you have fuel.

The APP is not supposed to be able to cause this issue in this truck. You may have been purging air before from all the cranking the person did with no fuel pressure. You know they cranked it for at least 30 minutes. Starter might not be able to get it to 150rpm that it has to for starting. If glows and starter are weak could be a problem.
 
Matuva I read over at the place that you replaced your ip and get smoke now but still no start. What I would try is to disable the glows and see if it will fire on ether. If it will than at least it will eliminate the mechanical side of things.
 
I'm like Buddy, if you have fuel now maybe it's not cranking fast enough. I know it's hard to tell but does it seem like it's cranking very fast?
 
I've had good luck with both WD40 and Sea Foam. Might want somebody else to chime in I may have just been lucky. I never use ether

I've also used Marvel mystery oil

It might be worth rechecking the IP bolts again
 
Last edited:
On a slow cranker,ether has the tendency to stop cranking dead in its tracks.You need good batts and starter for this.

you sure IP is timed right?
 
WD 40 has always worked for me and it is safer than either. A little wiff of gasoline on a rag might work as well. I would stick with WD-40
 
To use ether properly, you *should* have someone cranking the engine while another person gives a quick whiff to the air cleaner...

If that is scary, use WD-40....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top