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D-Tech,Dipaco, Flight Systems PMD failure-run away

Counting on aftermarket to solve a problem like this is kind of nonsense, and we shouldn't make conclusions based on what the new and improved designs advertise.

A place that prides itself on innovation should embrace new ideas, and potential solutions.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Vibration probably not a big factor as it is going to vibe as much if not more-so on bottom of a plastic skid plate or the front of my bumper, and we do get freezing weather here and lots of wind chill to contend with hanging out front as well.
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The frequency of vibration is far greater on the engine, thats why we have motor mounts to dampen it. Much worse than on the suspension/chassis.

Turbine Doc said:
after that one could mount their Heath remote anywhere one would want, so long as you had adequate airflow to keep the plate cool, I chose front of my bumper vs the skid plate, which on some 4x4 vehicles is not metal but composite plastic.

As a side note Bill said he ran it completely submerged in a bucket of water for a few months just to prove the water tight integrity of the setup.
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The 4 bolts in the setup, you mount anywhere, is it something you drill out 4 holes anywhere and put nuts on the other side? Or do they commonly go into metal threads somewhere? Are they specific bolt/screw holes that are recommended that already exist?

And I believe the weatherizing/waterproofing is a great part of the setup, everyone should do that.
 
buddy said:
The frequency of vibration is far greater on the engine, thats why we have motor mounts to dampen it. Much worse than on the suspension/chassis.



The 4 bolts in the setup, you mount anywhere, is it something you drill out 4 holes anywhere and put nuts on the other side? Or do they commonly go into metal threads somewhere? Are they specific bolt/screw holes that are recommended that already exist?

And I believe the weatherizing/waterproofing is a great part of the setup, everyone should do that.
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Not wholly discounting vibes as an issue of probability, but its a potted assembly so not a whole lot of movement for the "innards" of a driver to worry over IMO, additionally I'm reasonably certain engine mounts are for as much as ride comfort, for engine harmonics not making it's way into the cab as much as anything else; as most pounding of engine componets still would similar if not same as if engine was hard mounted as they are in many applications where engine get hard mount installed.

From the drivers I've tried to dissect (some more successfully than others) I've seen some fails are possibly contributed/related to mechanical fail of poor solder joints that expand/contract with temperature swings is as much of the temperature related fail modes, and not so many individual component fails, also extra load on the transistors causing those to run hot with poor tron conductivity possibly?

Years ago with some of our older analog systems I've seen a number of transistor fails we had on some PWBs that controlled turbine trips with poor connectivity on the PWBs that overloaded with a rapid on/off "switching effect" to point of burning the transistor.

For mounting; yes one can mount it anywhere, Heath sends a template for drilling of 4 holes and nuts-bolts-standoff posts come in the kit that are threaded for bolts to clamp to; on mine I used stainless bolts and nylock nuts so they can't back off, vs the provided lockwashers & plated fasteners that could rust over time.
 
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buddy said:
Counting on aftermarket to solve a problem like this is kind of nonsense, and we shouldn't make conclusions based on what the new and improved designs advertise.

A place that prides itself on innovation should embrace new ideas, and potential solutions.
Click to expand...

Idea embraced & I as well as others have been patiently waiting for the "better mousetrap". I've been waiting since 2000 when I first encountered this myself, but at end of the day it's still a mouse trap how much are we willing to pay for one, and also who is gonna build it for an obsolete system no longer produced in significant volume for a profitable ROI.

Many have tried and failed some VERY intelligent "tron weenies" up to & including the OEMs & OEM partners who are still struggling with is as the title of this thread would indicate.

Worst part is they hold the in house design expertise on it and still don't have it all buttoned up, in mean time while waiting for the better mousetrap to show up I'll continue to catch mice with the one I have, catching most of them and every once in a while one will get away. :)
 
Where others have failed may someone succeed.

There are plenty of electronics that specifically will fail with the vibration of an engine. Automotive electronics are built rugged, the PMD is potted so that helps tremendously. But still 1000 heat cycles and 1000 hours on a shaker table and somethings liable to break.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Idea embraced & I as well as others have been patiently waiting for the "better mousetrap". I've been waiting since 2000 when I first encountered this myself, but at end of the day it's still a mouse trap how much are we willing to pay for one, and also who is gonna build it for an obsolete system no longer produced in significant volume for a profitable ROI.
Click to expand...

Mirror's my thoughts in regards to why cannot someone build a bigger better unit. Several factors at play here and not so much that it cannot be done but more of a research and development fix for a system already 10 years old. Also factor in this, if we go with the premise that due to remote mounting one can make it bigger/stronger in size so it therefore cannot mount to the IP anymore. Then whomever designs it now has to not only market it's improvements over the GM recommended Stanadyne they have to also convince the other bigger majority of 6.5 owners whom do not frequent these boards that they also need to remote mount it away from the IP where GM designers said it should be.

I find my lottery ticket PMD and the spare that I carry a healthy reminder of why I prefer to make a living working on mechanical diesels. This whole electronic thing is all well and good and there are indeed some incredible advancements etc but one thing I know for sure as a Marine Engineer I stand more chance fixing a mechanically controlled engine out at sea or in a far flung foreign land then I do an electronically controlled unit. Furthermore I was remarking to someone the other day how it can be simpler to keep a 1930's diesel with zero spares availability running then its modern day 2011 great grandchildren.

Cheers
Nobby
 
nobby said:
Mirror's my thoughts in regards to why cannot someone build a bigger better unit. Several factors at play here and not so much that it cannot be done but more of a research and development fix for a system already 10 years old. Also factor in this, if we go with the premise that due to remote mounting one can make it bigger/stronger in size so it therefore cannot mount to the IP anymore. Then whomever designs it now has to not only market it's improvements over the GM recommended Stanadyne they have to also convince the other bigger majority of 6.5 owners whom do not frequent these boards that they also need to remote mount it away from the IP where GM designers said it should be.

I find my lottery ticket PMD and the spare that I carry a healthy reminder of why I prefer to make a living working on mechanical diesels. This whole electronic thing is all well and good and there are indeed some incredible advancements etc but one thing I know for sure as a Marine Engineer I stand more chance fixing a mechanically controlled engine out at sea or in a far flung foreign land then I do an electronically controlled unit. Furthermore I was remarking to someone the other day how it can be simpler to keep a 1930's diesel with zero spares availability running then its modern day 2011 great grandchildren.

Cheers
Nobby
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I could not agree more.

The Space monkies don't seem to share your skeptisme on electronics failure and far flung destinations. ;)
 
bison said:
Tranny/bell housing/front & rear driveshaft/flywheel/clutch,/pedal & cyl.HOLE in floor.
DB2/trottle pedal/electrical BS. And the time.

Sooo!, how many PMD's worth is that gonna be.?
Click to expand...

Exactly why I wouldn't even think of converting. Live with what I have. [I've only had 1 pmd failure]
 
bison said:
Tranny/bell housing/front & rear driveshaft/flywheel/clutch,/pedal & cyl.HOLE in floor.
DB2/trottle pedal/electrical BS. And the time.

Sooo!, how many PMD's worth is that gonna be.?
Click to expand...

Or Buy a 93. The search begins.....As for the Burb is was never made so converting is the only option. Tellin you guys...You ain't drove a 6.5 till ya drove a 93. Drives and runs way better than later years.
 
Way overpriced for what it is and how many miles. It's been for sale for more than a month.
All kidding aside , I do really like my 92. I wish I knew why it runs so good.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Or Buy a 93. The search begins.....As for the Burb is was never made so converting is the only option. Tellin you guys...You ain't drove a 6.5 till ya drove a 93. Drives and runs way better than later years.
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Actually i drove a 93 for a bit (2 wh drive, 4L80,4-10 gears ) 65ml at 2600 RPM. A thirsty bugger i tell ye.
I like my 98 much much better.;)
 
1800. That is a good price considering what that truck is worth in parts. an NV4500+ all the parts to install it is worth it alone and the motor may be salvagable but if not a DB2-2831-4911 is worth 300$ just for a rebuild-able core.
 
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