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Cooper Discoverer A/T 3

I'm not real impressed with the traction on wet asphalt. Gotta be a little more careful than with the BFG KOs. Not BAD, but not as good. Probably the throttle jockey's foot...
I'll know about snow soon enough. No hurry...
 
Mike, did you consider the Mastercraft Courser HXT's when you were looking? I'm thinking of putting 265/75-16's on my truck. It's not that I'm on the highway all that much in it, but want better snow traction and wonder if the highway all season tread is better in snow than the A/T tread.
 
They have an odd sound at 40-45 mph but it goes away above that. I'm currently running 60 psi until I get a chance to read the tread.

I'm running 35 psi in mine, unloaded. I have to get another chart for my size/weight, or do a print test like you're talking about. I have a sound above 60-65 ish, but it didn't bother me much. I don't have weights on the wheels - just the balancing bag beads. One bag in each tire.
 
Mike, did you consider the Mastercraft Courser HXT's when you were looking? I'm thinking of putting 265/75-16's on my truck. It's not that I'm on the highway all that much in it, but want better snow traction and wonder if the highway all season tread is better in snow than the A/T tread.
I decided that the amount of highway miles I drive made a lesser rolling resistance profile so I went with the AT at the tire dealer's (long time friend) suggestion. If you look at my miles/hr average it's at 43.5 for the life of the truck.
 
I'm running 35 psi in mine, unloaded. I have to get another chart for my size/weight, or do a print test like you're talking about. I have a sound above 60-65 ish, but it didn't bother me much. I don't have weights on the wheels - just the balancing bag beads. One bag in each tire.
Are those E rated? If so 35 psi is on the verge of flat, I'd never run below 55 psi in an E rated. If a lower load rating then it's a different story.
 
I decided that the amount of highway miles I drive made a lesser rolling resistance profile so I went with the AT at the tire dealer's (long time friend) suggestion. If you look at my miles/hr average it's at 43.5 for the life of the truck.

I bet I'm about the same, lots of driving on more local 40 and 50 mph roads and only a bit of highway lately. Plus I don't put a lot of miles on it in general. Like I said, just concerned about snow traction, both for plowing and general winter driving, in a not-too-high priced tire. I'm not willing to put dedicated snow tires on it, don't want to run 2 sets.
 
E rated. What's the procedure for the print test?

According to the Tire and Rim Association's generic chart, 35 psi is good for 2130 lbs. Load range doesn't change the pressure rating.
 
I'm really thinking about picking up a set of these for my 2009 F250. I need either a 35x12.5R20 or 325x60R20. I drive a lot of highway, and regularly hunt in the fields. I've always had aggressive mud tires or A/T's, but with the travel i need something more roadworthy.

Its between the Cooper A/T 3, General Grabber A/T, Nitto Grappler or Toyo Open Country.
 
Since I'm running 6.5" wide PYO rims with 285s the pressure is going to be determined by getting full width footprint. I had 45 in the BFGs to get the best print. Those were D rating. These are E range and 55 was a guess on my part that looks to be about right. I don't have a particular method, I just read it in mud, wet gravel, snow, and eventually by signs of wear. BTW, I always rotate at about 15k miles
 
E rated. What's the procedure for the print test?

According to the Tire and Rim Association's generic chart, 35 psi is good for 2130 lbs. Load range doesn't change the pressure rating.
Not meaning to argue, I'm far from a tire expert. But I've run E rated on standard steel rims, PYO's, dually's, and have never seen them run below 55 psi without squatting. I think you'll do sidewall damage over time running them that low. Maybe someone else will chime in with an opinion on this.
 
E load range tires do have more plys in the sidewall so it stands to reason they wouldn't want to flex as much as a weaker wall
 
Not meaning to argue, I'm far from a tire expert. But I've run E rated on standard steel rims, PYO's, dually's, and have never seen them run below 55 psi without squatting. I think you'll do sidewall damage over time running them that low. Maybe someone else will chime in with an opinion on this.
E rated 16" tires come in load ratings up to 3,960 lbs and generally have strong sidewalls like my 295/75/16e TOYO's (3 ply side) they can be safely run at much lower psi than the standard 245/75/16 e tires, however to be sure the manufacturer should have a "tire load to psi chart" for any tire you buy.

A TOYO 295/75/16e can be run @ 55 psi=3070 lb rating to meet the 12k load.

Keep in mind wheel load rating too, a ALCOA 16" forged 3,750 lb load rating with a 3,960 lb load rated tire is limited to the wheel load capacity. There are a few 3,960 capacity forget wheels out there too.

GM steel wheels come in two flavors the welded type and riveted type, riveted wheels are higher capacity and have a code stamped next to valve stem that match the vehicles GVWR tables.
 
Yikes. Sounds like a lot of pressure. How does it takes bumps and potholes from pavement?
I run 70 psi all around when towing, 75-80 in the front when plowing, with some weight in the bed for balance. The E's are as far as I know all rated for 80 psi max cold pressure, and you can run them there with no issues and the ride isn't as harsh as you might expect.
 
I run 70 psi all around when towing, 75-80 in the front when plowing, with some weight in the bed for balance. The E's are as far as I know all rated for 80 psi max cold pressure, and you can run them there with no issues and the ride isn't as harsh as you might expect.
All the 16" do the 80 psi however the 315/75/16 e which can be found running 65 psi max w/3,860 load rating (SRW).
 
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