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Compounds

Thats an interesting write up. The S&B air filter is creative and would be similar to any air filter- basically easier flow is better, providing it captures enough dirt. And since thats on the water- not bad. Use it in the desert where i am and a better filter might be in order.
Mind you my 6.5 always run on the k&n, but i over oil to loose some flow and catch more dirt from the get go. Then clean it more often than Recomend amount too. As my desire to turn wrenches on my rig decreases I am more and more leaning towards the Delco duramax filter as it still holds king of the hill for high volume flow. If I do go through with the big boy turbo, i think I will have to go to the other filter because of how much powder dirt I go through.

If a person were to diy a system like the one in that one you posted- I would push them to learn about that dmax filter inplace of the s&b.
 
Will L. said:
Thats an interesting write up. The S&B air filter is creative and would be similar to any air filter- basically easier flow is better, providing it captures enough dirt. And since thats on the water- not bad. Use it in the desert where i am and a better filter might be in order.
Mind you my 6.5 always run on the k&n, but i over oil to loose some flow and catch more dirt from the get go. Then clean it more often than Recomend amount too. As my desire to turn wrenches on my rig decreases I am more and more leaning towards the Delco duramax filter as it still holds king of the hill for high volume flow. If I do go through with the big boy turbo, i think I will have to go to the other filter because of how much powder dirt I go through.

If a person were to diy a system like the one in that one you posted- I would push them to learn about that dmax filter inplace of the s&b.
Click to expand...
YEP, This canister is designed for your AO...

Ump 5 Inch Inlet Mega Super Air Filter With 10 Inch Canister For Engines That Have 250Hp To 450Hp

Ump 5 Inch Inlet Mega Super Air Filter With 10 Inch Canister For Engines That Have 250Hp To 450Hp from Pacific Customs Unlimited your best source for Street, Off Road, Sandrail, Dune Buggy, Manx, Rock Crawler, Volksrod, or Mud Buggy VW Parts.
www.pacificcustoms.com

Panty hose is what I placed over my S&K in AZ and I did get into a massive sand storm and it the hose did great.
 
dixiepc said:
I really like this. With the right oil filler neck and the baffle over the timing chain that should work great in our applications. Maybe to old military filler cap would work here.
Click to expand...
Notice how their filler port filter also pulls low pressure air into the mix, the old 6.2 diesel filler may be best choice I just don't know.
 
Yeah looks good- but I would try to find testing numbers before buying. Think about how good most stuff is from moroso and their’s isn’t worth installing if they give it to you free.

A cheaper way out is some guys are buying the cko of the Provent, so instead of $150-175- they spend $30 for it, the. Buy the $25 filter. You have to do the solicone hose trick to space the oring out but all in is like $60.
The reg valve might cause a loss of a few percent if it isn’t as good as the real one, but still in the kid 90 percent efficiency range and same filter means you will catch 98% still which is the best on the market except the bigger provent at 99%.
 
I'm worried about having to buy an excessive amount of filters for the CCV4500. Seems like that's the biggest complaint I read about them.
 
Now that we have the crankcase ventilation covered does anybody have any hands on experience with running a compound turbo setup on a 6.5?
 
I've see one compound setup on a 6.5 using the Gm8 and a Hx35. The owner never followed up with any data or if he like it or not. but judging by his turbo choices I say it probably wasn't an ideal set up.

I don't seen a point to compounds at the power levels most 6.5s are at. A properly matched single will do everything you need it to do. Only two reasons I could see going with compounds would be a truck making over 500hp that you are racing an pushing high RPMs... Or if you cant keep your EGTs down while towing. If your not in those two categories your probably wasting your money on second turbo you don't need.

The big question is what injection pump are your running? Plenty of trucks pushing 150cc with no EGT issues. If your running a 5521 DS4 or a mild build DB2 you don't have the fuel to justify a compound set up. But hey its your truck, build it how you like.

If I was going to do compounds I would run a s257/s472 set up. With a .370 pump build to flow over 200cc. Then dial in the low RPM fueling with a smokepuff limiter and a boot controller.
 
Rockabillyrat said:
I've see one compound setup on a 6.5 using the Gm8 and a Hx35. The owner never followed up with any data or if he like it or not. but judging by his turbo choices I say it probably wasn't an ideal set up.

I don't seen a point to compounds at the power levels most 6.5s are at. A properly matched single will do everything you need it to do. Only two reasons I could see going with compounds would be a truck making over 500hp that you are racing an pushing high RPMs... Or if you cant keep your EGTs down while towing. If your not in those two categories your probably wasting your money on second turbo you don't need.

The big question is what injection pump are your running? Plenty of trucks pushing 150cc with no EGT issues. If your running a 5521 DS4 or a mild build DB2 you don't have the fuel to justify a compound set up. But hey its your truck, build it how you like.

If I was going to do compounds I would run a s257/s472 set up. With a .370 pump build to flow over 200cc. Then dial in the low RPM fueling with a smokepuff limiter and a boot controller.
Click to expand...
I ran out of fuel with the BIG HX40 but I still think that was the best turbo for the 6.5 until fueling fell off...
 
I guess my biggest problem is egt's while towing. I could bump up to 1200° really quick even with a 14cm2 turbine housing. I can tell I still have more power available but I have to back off because of the egt's. I have a intercooler planned so maybe that will take care of my problem. I'm running a 12cm2 gated housing right now and I'm surely enjoying it for my daily driving. Haven't towed with it yet so I can't say how it'll do towing.

I'm working on building a 18:1 engine right now. Hoping to use a 130cc injection pump. Wonder what effect lower compression will have on egt's?
 
dixiepc said:
I guess my biggest problem is egt's while towing. I could bump up to 1200° really quick even with a 14cm2 turbine housing. I can tell I still have more power available but I have to back off because of the egt's. I have a intercooler planned so maybe that will take care of my problem. I'm running a 12cm2 gated housing right now and I'm surely enjoying it for my daily driving. Haven't towed with it yet so I can't say how it'll do towing.

I'm working on building a 18:1 engine right now. Hoping to use a 130cc injection pump. Wonder what effect lower compression will have on egt's?
Click to expand...
I did run a CAC EGT's were low...
 
Yeah, the cac or a water unit will make a huge difference.
It would really help if you filled out your signature line with truck details.
What exhaust are you running including crossover and muffler?
Are you in a suburban, pickup? What year, etc. If you are in a square body it makes things easier.
 
I run a 14cm cko hx35 with a bored exducer housing. I also have a 24x12x3 cac under the bumper, and a water/meth system (12gph nozzle w/15% methanol). I can hold it to the floor for 2 min+ and stay under 1100 deg. This in second gear at about 45mph towing 14k (over 20k gross).
I do feel a 16cm housing would be better, and stock compression (20-21:1) definitely makes it harder to control egt.
 
Will L. said:
Yeah, the cac or a water unit will make a huge difference.
It would really help if you filled out your signature line with truck details.
What exhaust are you running including crossover and muffler?
Are you in a suburban, pickup? What year, etc. If you are in a square body it makes things easier.
Click to expand...

I'll do that as soon as I find where that is.
 
Will L. said:
Yeah, the cac or a water unit will make a huge difference.
It would really help if you filled out your signature line with truck details.
What exhaust are you running including crossover and muffler?
Are you in a suburban, pickup? What year, etc. If you are in a square body it makes things easier.
Click to expand...

Just where do I find the signature line to fill out?
 
At the top of the page is your icon and name. Click on that, it will bring up this list. At the bottom of the list..E5D9A2C7-3161-468D-B342-5A736A60BE84.png
 
Thanks Will, just gotta figure it out on the phone now. Looks totally different here.
 
The 14cm housing is just a little to small for the 6.5 if you work it hard. And the 16cm is a little laggy with the factory open exhaust system. If you built a divided exhaust setup it would increase spool time on the 16cm, and lower EGTs as well. Probably be the same amount of work as a compound setup. A divided system could be side mounted, or buy van manifolds and build a center mount.

My sxe362 shipped a few days ago. Im hoping a divided system will spool it with a .83T4 nicely. 🤘🤘
 
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