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Changing 1994 6.5 For 1990 6.2

Well, the last few days have been taken up with other things, honey-do stuff and extended family from out of state, so almost nothing has been done on the motor. So, tomorrow is the day for me to try something new, replace a two piece rear main seal. Almost everything needed has arrived here. The block heater is on the way, but not holding me up from working on the motor. As soon as the rings get here I can get serious with assembling.

After the rear main seal project I will be going forward on final cleaning of the block exterior, and painting it. Also, I need to start assembling the trans/transfer case and install them and the rear drive shaft. I think I will also replace the rear seal on the transfer case just for good measure.

Don
 
not as big of deal on the auto, but I would check to see if the t-case is overfull. if so, the front seal of the t-case is out, letting transmission oil in.

Now is a great time to do that.

Also, would it be best to do the trans after the engine is in the bay, or would you have it slid further back so there is plenty of clearance to drop the engine in?
 
GM Guy said:
not as big of deal on the auto, but I would check to see if the t-case is overfull. if so, the front seal of the t-case is out, letting transmission oil in.

Now is a great time to do that.

Also, would it be best to do the trans after the engine is in the bay, or would you have it slid further back so there is plenty of clearance to drop the engine in?
Click to expand...

In the time while it was setting around, and having to move it around some, I accidentally dumped some of the TC oil, so I won't be able to check the quantity of oil. However, the trans had not been showing any oil loss. So I don't think there is any problem there. But, if a new seal isn't very expensive this sure would be the time to put a new one in.

I don't have a transmission jack readily available, so I was thinking of putting the trans and TC in while I had more room to maneuver things easier. I hadn't actually put much thought yet into that part. So, I'll check out clearances carefully before going any further. At the moment I'm still seriously considering installing the trans and TC first. But, I will see if there is room to push them back a bit as I can visualize that possibly making setting the motor back in easier.

You've got some valid points there which I will definitely check out.

Don
 
I've got another question for somebody. I swapped the stock GM turbo for Holset HX35W a couple years ago. I could never find for sure if some kind of restrictor was needed in the oil supply line. So, I hooked up the supply on the HX35 the same as the GM turbo was, thinking that too much oil supply couldn't be too bad.

Well, the inside of the intake manifold and tubes had a slight coating of oil when I took it apart. This does concern me as it makes me wonder if it does need a restrictor, or if the seal in the cartridge is starting to leak a bit. Does anybody have any knowledge about this?

Don
 
Don't restrict the oil supply to turbo. The oil in the turbo 99.9% comes from CDR. Even if it was coming from the seals you would not want to restrict the oil. If it is coming from seals get a new turbo or rebuild it.
 
I need to clarify my turbo situation, as I should have done so already. When I swapped to the HX35 major air intake changes were required as the HX35 needs a 4" fresh air intake. Since it had been in place for a couple years I forgot about the air filter situation not being stock and forgot about mentioning the changes.

Since the HX35 needs a 4" fresh air input, and the stock input is not 4", I totally revamped the intake. I swapped the locations for the battery and air filter. This allowed me to have an intake with only one 90* bend. Still a full 4" all the way from air filter to the turbo. The air filter, if my memory is working, is AEM, exactly the same size as the K-47 air filter but with a 4" opening where the turbo supply air comes from. I found a gasser filter box, that I modified, that was the same as the K-47 air box, but had the intake on the opposite end. The filter is closed on the end opposite to where the turbo intake attaches, so no problems there.

The motor at that time was putting out enough blowby oil that I didn't want to take a chance on all that oil going into feeding the motor into a run away situation at some future time. Since the stock location for the CDR attaches to the intake just in front of the turbo I wasn't about to use that same location and mess up the HX35 with all that oil. Consequently, I ended up making a road draft tube, and none of the blowby went through the turbo. So, all the oil that has coated the intake tract between the turbo and intake valves has come from the turbo itself.

It is still dark enough outside yet this morning that good pictures will be hard to get. But maybe I should try to get pics of the oil coating when there is enough light. The coating is not near as much as all the gunk I've seen in EGR motor intakes. To me it doesn't look like a lot of oil, but my question was about the need, feasibility, for any kind of restrictor in the turbo oil supply line. Sometime in the not to distant future I will probably need to put a new center cartridge in the HX35.

Don
 
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So No CDR in the intake, dry behind the air filter, and oil wet after the turbo on the intake side? Are the intake compressor blades rubbing on the housing?

If so add a HX35 center cartridge to your list, NOW. See if Leroy can get this? If the blades are not rubbing you can just get the turbo resealed, but, may as well rebuild it anyway.

Don't wait as the seal can completely let go and feed your engine in a Youtube quality runaway till it runs out of engine oil or blows.

No, you don't restrict the turbo oil feed! The turbo uses and dumps a lot of oil in the return mainly for cooling.

With a "bad" turbo and engine failure - have you cut open an oil filter and seriously evaluated replacing the engine oil cooler to eliminate the chance of debris stuck in it ruining the next engine?
 
make sure the oil drain line is clear, never cut oil supply to the turbo. When I was looking into adding my turbo I read up on oil pressure and volume specs. The oil seal should be good to 110 psi. If it's leaking and not plugged then it's a worn seal.
 
GM Guy said:
Kent Moore J-22102 Front seal driver is on its way.

here is a big shout out to blackhatauction (http://www.ebay.com/usr/blackhatauction?_trksid=p2047675.l2559) on ebay for giving me close to 20 dollars off the driver after I asked if a discount could be given since I intended to donate the tool!
Click to expand...

GM Guy, the seal installer arrived today. I must say I was very impressed with the packaging, and the care with which it was done. It arrived fully intact, no damages of any kind. Blackhatauction, score 1-- shipping gorillas, 0.

I will be sending you a PM, GM GUY, with my e-mail address so that you can send any inquiries/needs for this installer my way. The installer will be passed on to the next person in need as soon as I have completed my budget refresh. If there are any needs for the installer expressed on this site I will send it on to the next person, the same way as any needs that are sent to me by GM Guy.

The tool is an impressive one, very heavy. I haven't used it yet, but hopefully tomorrow will see me having that chance.

Thank you very much GM Guy!

Don
 
No problem!

Basically this is to be a communal tool, just pay the shipping and take care of it and people are free to use it. I don't want it back, as I allready own 3. Plus, my tool collection is tax deductable, and this was paid for with the personal account, so even more reason for it to stay away. :) lol

I would imagine that if a person has not been a member for very long and wants to use it, it would be nice if it was shipped back to a long time forum user when finished so that we don't lose track of it.

I wonder if we could have someone in charge of a communal tool set that could play caretaker and home base with plenty of storage? I am cramped for space and time, so I doubt I would do the job well.
Many of the GM specialty tools can be replaced by a common substitute, but stuff like this seal driver, the GP connector removal tool, IP wrenches, etc. are rather special.
 
I used the driver Thursday. Impressive! I didn't have the advantage of the timing case being on the block, so it probably wasn't as good of a first time experience. The timing case was laid on a not so solid piece of plywood which in turn was on a set of 2X4 sawhorses, which added together was a bit springy. But, the tool was very solid and impressive. The timing case is now on the block, and the tool is setting in the seal and over the crank snout to help keep dust and dirt away from the freshly cleaned and greased timing chain area.

I did get a picture of the tool in it's resting place, but the pic is on my "dumb" phone and I don't know how to get it onto the computer. (I hate my new "smart phone", I wish I could have found a new G'Zone flip phone with as good as, or better, quality as the one that I replaced). Maybe this evening I will have time to get my real camera out and get a replacement pic.

Don
 
Sorry, I got sidetracked and forgot to get a pic of the driver. Here it is on the end of the crank snout. And, yes I did have it in place in the cover when I put the cover back on. IMGP1479.JPG

I also have a question about the placement of the transmission cross member. I took a lot of pics before taking things apart, but somehow I missed getting one of the cross member. Everything in my memory tells me that the cross member is supposed to be setting on top of the lower horizontal section of the frame. But, I was unable to get it to go into that area. Short of time, and very frustrated, I temporarily bolted it in under the frame so the transmission would have support until I can get back to it. Does anybody have a picture of their cross member, and where it touches the frame, they can post? IMGP1477.JPG

That piece of sheet metal is what I have been using to lay on instead of directly on the gravel. In the past I have used office carpet/chair pads, but my last one was broken over time and I haven't replaced it yet.

Oh, by the way, I went to O'Reilly's to get a harmonic balancer installer today ( their rental/free tool program). When I looked at the tool I wasn't sure if it had the right thread, and when I got home I checked against the balancer bolt and the tool set definitely doesn't have the correct thread. I have an extra bolt that is the correct size/thread, so I'll have to see if I can make something out of the bolt. My big concern is that I think the bolt is hardened, which means I may not be able to drill or thread it. We'll see what comes up.

Don
 
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GM Guy said:
IDK about automatic trucks, but I know all of my 5 speeds go in above the frame rail.
Click to expand...

NVW said:
Yes in goes above the bottom flange of the frame, a BFH helps get it in place.
Click to expand...

Burning oil said:
X3. Its tight and also a left and right side IIRC.

BTW your rings and stuff will hopefully ship Friday.
Click to expand...

My memory told me that the cross member went above the frame rail, but that location didn't happen the other day. Hopefully my frustrations are in check today and I can succeed.

Leroy, that is good news. Deer hunting season starts Oct 4th for me and I sure would like to have the pickup available to use. I know that I'm very close for time, so we'll see what happens.

Don
 
SUCCESS!!!! I got the cross member in place, but not bolted to the frame yet. I want the trans to be able to push as far back as possible when I drop the motor into place.

Dom WHO!?
 
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