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Building a flat bed

actually I had another idea for the hitch pocket. if you want I can work it out monday and send it to you? it ties into the frame i designed for you
 
If everything works out I should be able to go get the steel sometime this week. I still need to figure out what I need for the back bumper and hitch, and the g/n ball.
 
you planning on getting your decking material and all at the same time? gonna have skirts? let me know and i'll figure you some stuff up
 
Since it is a long trip I'd like to get as much as possible. I am hoping to build tool boxes under the bed.
 
Will 16 gauge and 1X1 tubing work for the tool boxes? Also will 16 gauge work for the part that comes up under the back window?
 
So you don't want a full headache rack, just under the window? The 3/4 x 3/4 angle you'll only need one stick for decking support. I'll need some time for more plans though........things have gotten me swamped at work now
 
No I have a full sized headache rack planed...I was just asking if 16 ga. was thick enough for the part under the window that will be solid.
 
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I did a little research and it looks like maybe 16 ga. is a little thin so I guess I'll look at 11-14 ga.....what I am worried about is making it to heavy....or is that not a problem?
 
Thanks for all your help...there is really no rush. I am gona be gone most of the rest of this week. I got out of school early today and made the trip to Odessa and got, hopefully, most of the steel I'll need. The rest I should be able to get here locally.
 
As far as the cab protector plate, I'd use either 3/16 or 1/8". The area covered will not be much so the thinner material would be fine, plus you will be building a headache rack around it that will give it structure and rigidness.
By the way, my personal headache rack is built from 2x2 and 2x3" sq. and rectangular tubing. The top of the plate, from the top of the deck is 15" at which it has the 2x2 sq. tubing and the top of my headache rack is 37.5" from the top of the deck.

If I am forgetting something let me know.
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Thank you very much...that is very helpful.

So for the frame and the bed I have the floor plate the 4" channel the 3" channel and the 1" angle. Is there a certain order I should weld them together to help hold down on the warping?
 
I'm trying to remember how my dad built his flatbeds when I was younger...

I want to say he layed the large channel out (4" in your case), making sure they were square, and vice-gripped the ribs on (your 3" channel). With the frame layed out like this he could go through and make sure everything remained square, the vice-grips allowing him to tap or adjust the pieces as necessary. From there he went along and tack welded each rib in place, final verification of squareness, then completely welding the ribs in place. It helped that we had a nice flat concrete floor and nice heavy sawhorses that held the bed level as it took shape.
 
83GMCK2500 said:
I'm trying to remember how my dad built his flatbeds when I was younger...

I want to say he layed the large channel out (4" in your case), making sure they were square, and vice-gripped the ribs on (your 3" channel). With the frame layed out like this he could go through and make sure everything remained square, the vice-grips allowing him to tap or adjust the pieces as necessary. From there he went along and tack welded each rib in place, final verification of squareness, then completely welding the ribs in place. It helped that we had a nice flat concrete floor and nice heavy sawhorses that held the bed level as it took shape.
Click to expand...
Exactly, if you're unsure of how to keep them square or get them square, let me know...........using a square or speed square don't work for this too good, should all be done with a tape measure from corner to corner........ check and re-check.......then check again :D
Be sure you are on a level and flat surface preferably with a way to anchor your main beams.
big block 88 said:
Nice job Phil that looks very good and durable,
Click to expand...

Thanks buddy............. I could get more detailed, but you know most people get payed for CAD work ):h:thumbsup:
 
Will two 4" channel with the channel down be strong enough for the g/n ball? The ball is slightly over 4" tall so that is the only way I can think of to get it low enough.
 
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Sorry about that, I failed to add that you'll need 4 short pcs of heavy angle, like 3x4x5/16 to weld to the 3" channel. You'll lay the long side along the back of the c-channel with the angle in to lay your g/n ball plate on, adjust it down as much as you feel needed for your ball. Normally a g/n ball is 3.25" in height above mounting plate, so you really only need drop it 1/2" for the ball to sit under the ball cover
 
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