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Building a flat bed

I have always just welded my G/N balls in but then again I am certified all position MIG TIG ARC, but a turnover ball doesn't make sence if you are ressecing it.
 
big block 88 said:
I have always just welded my G/N balls in but then again I am certified all position MIG TIG ARC, but a turnover ball doesn't make sence if you are ressecing it.
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I completely agree. No need for turnover ball if recessing, and I really don't trust turn-overs. But I still think you should never weld a ball in, simply because you may need it out at some point.......... do believe in tacking the nut to threads once tightened though, just a takc that can be cut or broke very easily.
 
I have broke a ball before but 5 min with the air arc and a new one was ready to weld in. The nly reason I even started weldin in he ball was I broke a ball right at the shaft, on a stinger so I never took a chance again. But I tow very large loads at times
 
I would call a 3T D7 quite a load at 34K............was a bit worried the ball would snap, since it's only rated at 30k.......or that the trans would blow, but only needed to move it 6 miles trucker with low boy wanted nearly 400 dollars to move it.
 
:nonod: sorry, I don't carry a camera with me all the time................. hell seldom if any of the time. It was a last minute thing where I said WTF..........let's try it and so we did. Friend that were there with me thought nothing of it...........they never expected me to NOT be able to move it so no big deal was made of it.
 
Lancerdually said:
:nonod: sorry, I don't carry a camera with me all the time................. hell seldom if any of the time. It was a last minute thing where I said WTF..........let's try it and so we did. Friend that were there with me thought nothing of it...........they never expected me to NOT be able to move it so no big deal was made of it.
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I love me some CAT POWER
 

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Finally found some steel...3 hour drive one way.... hopefully go get it in the next few weeks. So I'll need 4"X2" tubing for the frame, 3"X1 1/2" for the cross pieces? What gauge should those be?
 
No, I'd get c-channel.......if you get tubing and water or mud gets in it.........not to mention condensation, it'll rot(rust) out get the c-channel in the sizes you mentioned above.
 
Buy in surplus or salvage steel...........if you can get it. It'll be cheaper than buying new.
Figure exactly what lengths you need and see if that helps.......sometimes steel yards will sell "drops" cheaper if they have some pieces long enough to make up what you need without buying full sticks, from what people have bought to match certain lengths
 
Lancerdually said:
Buy in surplus or salvage steel...........if you can get it. It'll be cheaper than buying new.
Figure exactly what lengths you need and see if that helps.......sometimes steel yards will sell "drops" cheaper if they have some pieces long enough to make up what you need without buying full sticks, from what people have bought to match certain lengths
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Along with drops, it is cheaper 'round here if you buy it in 21 foot sections
 
Most places I've dealt with in texas will sell drops at surplus price and let it go by the pound........usually works out much cheaper that way.........for me.
In case 1994 don't know what I mean, here's an example:
You need 4 sticks of c-channel in 3 x 1.5 at 6 foot long.
they might sell you 2 pcs 6'6", 1 pc 12' for less than a full 21' joint. You still get what you need and they get rid of something that may lay on the shelf for EVER
 
Find a local iron/welding shop I know the one I worked at we sold our drop iron very cheap. Phil is right tubing is not the ideal material, channel and heavy gauge angle iron is the best, I have built flat beds and traiers out of both, what gauge you use depends on how much weight you will put on it. Overkill is very important IMO you can never go to strong you only want to do it once.
 
Blake, a more truthful statement has neever been made................... when it comes to strength you can never go too far.
1994 if you want I can lay out a frame for you in CAD and send it to you in a pdf file you can print, will need dimensions if you want.
 
The more of an idea I can get the better. I don't want to take a 6 hour trip and forget something. (I can get steel closer but the difference in price will pay for the trip) What measurements do you need and I'll try to get them to you tomorrow. The only flatbed around here I have been able to look at has 1/16" floor plate and every other weld is broken (I don't want to use it as a pattern) I really do appreciate all the help.
 
I'll need frame dimensions, inside width, outer width, length from cab to end, from end to center of rear axle yoke. I'll lay you out a basic frame, then if you want we'll get into more detail on decking and skirts, boxes & etc. if you wish
 
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