• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Bringing Back A Set of PYO's From The Dead

I just took mine off after 10 years...I replaced mine only because I was able to buy the tires and rims I have now including shipping for about the same price as just the tires I wanted for my PYO's...
==============================================================================================

Barry,

My truck is going on 11 years old and I plan on keeping it for a long time just like most of the 6.5er's here...back in 2006 you were probably thinking the same thing...so were not that much different as you think...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I just swapped to my summer tires and my PYO's need a little love. This winter was tough on them. I have all summer but I am not sure what I want to do to them.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Are there any other options that can be done to the PYO's? They are a strong rim, but the stock OEM finish just does not last that long.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Barry, i'm curious if your set of PY0s were stamped "Alcoa" or not. I know mine were, Devin about shat himself when he saw that since his are stamped "Superior Wheel, Hungary" or something along those lines.
 
I know for a fact the ones on my 06 had Superior/Hungary stamped into the center.

There was someone on the other place a long time ago, I wish I could remember his name that spent some dough on powder coating. The main part of the wheel was gloss black and the beveled edges of the cutouts were gloss white. They looked sharp IMO.
 
I know for a fact the ones on my 06 had Superior/Hungary stamped into the center.

There was someone on the other place a long time ago, I wish I could remember his name that spent some dough on powder coating. The main part of the wheel was gloss black and the beveled edges of the cutouts were gloss white. They looked sharp IMO.

don't know about superior...but my early 01's are stamped Hungary for sure...

Black powder coating or Black Teflon coating would be even better...

American Racing actually makes a Teflon coated set very similar to the PYO style

details.asp
m3985.jpg
 
i really like those AR wheels im thinking i may see what the cost would be to powder coat my PYO's compared to what a set of those would run.
 
Those look real nice Pepp. I'm not a big fan of powdercoat. Once there's a chip in it the whole mess eventually blisters and lifts. It's especially bad for us salt belt guys. I'd rather see the teflon coat like that. Probably would hold up better. But where to get existing stripped wheels done would be the question of the hour. That's typically an industrial type process and too pricey and precision for the consumer market.
 
My PYO's are stamped Hungary. What finish is stronger, anodizing or powder-coating?
Anodize is referred to as "half in - half out" meaning 1/2 penetrates the aluminum. It would hold up better but is not friendly with salt. Hardcoat anodize, on the other hand, might be a possibility. I should ask our anodize vendor for work what he knows next week.

BTW Hungary on mine too and my '05 the same
 
Last edited:
Those look real nice Pepp. I'm not a big fan of powdercoat. Once there's a chip in it the whole mess eventually blisters and lifts. It's especially bad for us salt belt guys. I'd rather see the teflon coat like that. Probably would hold up better. But where to get existing stripped wheels done would be the question of the hour. That's typically an industrial type process and too pricey and precision for the consumer market.
x2

I recently rebuilt a flat deck, it was horribly rusty, the powder coat held the moisture between it and the metal.
 
I'm about 98.6% certain the guy I was referring to above with the black and white PYO's was Meeko. He doesn't have any photos of them in his garage however.

The pic Pepp posted looks excellent for an aftermarket wheel. For all their shortcomings (too narrow), the PYO's were a very good looking factory wheel IMO.

Found this somewhere else...
i120263.jpg
 
Last edited:
http://www.brownells.com/1/1/5079-teflon-moly-oven-cure-gun-finish-black-brownells.html

$32.99

TEFLON_MOLY_OVEN_CURE__GUN_FINISH
p_083048801_1.jpg
083048801lg.jpg


The Next Generation Of Durable, Spray-On, Professional Gun Finishes

Now you can apply a great-looking coating with the increased durability and friction-fighting properties of Teflon® fluoropolymer resin and molybdenum disulfide to any firearm or metal part in as little as 2 hours. This is not just another spray paint. Brownells Teflon/Moly Gun Finish is an ultra-modern, thermo-set, spray-on, self-lubricating coating, chemically bonded to a phenolic-epoxy base so it’s highly resistant to scratches and abrasion. Because the finish is baked on, you get some extra benefits. As the metal heats, its pores open allowing the Teflon component to penetrate. On high-wear areas, like slide rails, the coating will eventually wear away but the Teflon will still be in the pores, lubricating and protecting. Plus, dense colors won’t lighten, dissolve or break down under all common gun solvents. One application makes any properly prepared metal almost impervious to oxidation. The convenient aerosol can, with its versatile cone-shaped spray, is so easy to use it’s almost mistake-proof. Just degrease and abrasive-blast the part; pre-heat the part ’til it’s warm to the touch, then spray Brownells Teflon/Moly Gun Finish and let dry. In about 15 minutes, bake in a regular kitchen oven at 350° F. for 30 minutes. As soon as the part cools, it’s completely protected from rust and ready for final assembly. Perfect for restoring military rifles and parts; coating hard-to-blue, stainless steel or aluminum parts; refurbishing hunting guns and self-defense weapons, or refinishing any piece of metal that needs a durable, self-lubricating, rust-proof coating that lasts and will look great for years to come. Great “hiding” ability makes it a natural for quickly redoing those dinged and pitted working guns (after you get the rust out of the pits, of course). Use as a one-coat finish, or spray on several fine, thin coats and then bake. Extremely economical, one can will fully coat up to two long guns or four handguns!
 
At this point ,the wheels are looking much better than they did to start out with. All the polishing on them has turned them more gray and not as bright as they normally are. I had a spray bottle of some eagle ! mag wheel cleaner for unfinished aluminum wheels. I sprayed them down and then rinsed them off again[I had thoroughly washed and rinsed them after every application of stripper] It brightened them up but left them a little cloudy looking. A light polish with fine steel wool took that off.
Since i'm going through all this work with these I want to put some color highlighting on them before clear coating them again. The only paint I had that was any where close to the truck color was in a spray can of touch-up paint. I attempted to mask off all that I didn't want paint on and gave up on that idea about half way through the first wheel.So i sprayed some of the paint in the cap for the can and tried brushing it on. :nonod: Strike 2. The spray can paint is way too thin to even try to brush on.
Off to the parts store to try to get some color matching paint. Most parts stores don't mix paint any more. The parts store I went to was able to get me a pint from their supplier the next day:thumbsup: I ordered acrylic enamal because it.s too hard to mix the 2 part paints and use them up before they turn hard as a rock. A pint of the Hawaiian Orchid paint cost $35:eek::eek:
I got 2 coats on the wheels where I wanted highlights and then went after the center caps and lug nut covers. I'm letting the paint cure on the wheels before I spray the clear on. I did a test on the back side of one of the wheels to see if the clear dulled the brightness of the aluminum. Not at all. :thumbsup::thumbsup:View attachment 25423View attachment 25424View attachment 25425View attachment 25426View attachment 25427View attachment 25428View attachment 25429View attachment 25430lView attachment 25422
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1661_4.JPG
    IMG_1661_4.JPG
    54.6 KB · Views: 24
  • IMG_1663_6.jpg
    IMG_1663_6.jpg
    55.1 KB · Views: 23
  • IMG_1691_2.JPG
    IMG_1691_2.JPG
    53.3 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_1696_1.jpg
    IMG_1696_1.jpg
    63.3 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_1698_3.jpg
    IMG_1698_3.jpg
    60.9 KB · Views: 24
  • IMG_1699_4.jpg
    IMG_1699_4.jpg
    57 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_1701_2.jpg
    IMG_1701_2.jpg
    57.1 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_1702_3.jpg
    IMG_1702_3.jpg
    58.8 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_1704_5.jpg
    IMG_1704_5.jpg
    59.8 KB · Views: 19
The 'mag' wheel cleaner is some wicked stuff. Hydrofluoric acid I think. It'll etch bare aluminum. (you know this)

You've got some patients sir!
 
The 'mag' wheel cleaner is some wicked stuff. Hydrofluoric acid I think. It'll etch bare aluminum. (you know this)

You've got some patients sir!

It didn't seem to etch ,so much as just brighten it up. It did kind of foam some like a acid does. It shure did what I wanted.
I severely injured my back 2 months ago. I can only stand to work on my trucks for 2 hours at the most. This was something I could do that didn't about kill me. So far ,i've done all this in my basement. Neither of the 2 strippers ,the cleaner or the paint has stunk up the house. Gonna have to open a window when I spray the clear.
 
Back
Top