Brake upgrades using factory parts for GMT-400(88-00 OBS), and 94-99 DODGE 2500/3500

[Husker6.5]

Also, make sure it is the Suburban-based Escalade (I believe that's the ESV, but I'm not a Caddy guy), not the more compact Tahoe-based Escalade. The TSB came out in 1999, so it would only be late 99 build date Suburbans with the newer valve.

 

[Oredigger97]

No, iirc, it is NOT the ABS unit that was replaced under the TSB, it was the combination or "proportioning" valve on the back of the ABS unit that gets changed out. Bleeding an ABS is a royal P.I.T.A. without the proper equipment, whereas bleeding the proportioning valve it relatively simple. Here is a PDF attachment to an article on this very subject for 1990's Suburbans with the P/N's of the parts needed.

Thanks for the article. I was just searching the abs unit on car-parts since there was only 1 result nationally for the proportioning valve. I'm going to call a few of the yards close to me that have the abs unit and see if I can buy the proportioning valve only.

 

[Mojo808]

Hello Truck Stop Folks!

First post. Have a 95 Chevy Tahoe 4WD 2DR 5.7L. Upsized the front calipers (from 2.94" to 3.15"). Bolted right in to the brackets. BUT the shims on the brake pads are scoring the "hat" on the rotor. Are these particular pads not compatible? Suggestions?

 

[n8in8or]

Hello Truck Stop Folks!

First post. Have a 95 Chevy Tahoe 4WD 2DR 5.7L. Upsized the front calipers (from 2.94" to 3.15"). Bolted right in to the brackets. BUT the shims on the brake pads are scoring the "hat" on the rotor. Are these particular pads not compatible? Suggestions?

As I recall, I took a disc grinder to the bottom of my pads so they would have the proper clearance. I think it just depends on which pads you use whether you'll have that issue or not.

 

[n8in8or]

Hello Truck Stop Folks!

First post. Have a 95 Chevy Tahoe 4WD 2DR 5.7L. Upsized the front calipers (from 2.94" to 3.15"). Bolted right in to the brackets. BUT the shims on the brake pads are scoring the "hat" on the rotor. Are these particular pads not compatible? Suggestions?

Oh and welcome to The Truck Stop!

 

[Mojo808]

Oh and welcome to The Truck Stop!

Cool. I was hoping it was that simple. Thank you!

 

[Will L.]

Welcome @Mojo808 .
And remember to burnish in new pads and/or new rotors. One of those things that a tiny bit of time brings nice rewards.

 

[drag sgt]

I know I'm bumping an old thread, but didn't think it was a big enough question/clarification to warrant it's own thread over asking here. A U-Pull-It yard near my shows they have a pair of knuckles off a 2000 2500. For the 99-00 NBS knuckles specifically, is the consensus that we are supposed to:

a) use the OEM GMT400 tie rod (flipped?)
b) use a different tie rod end part # that fits our thread and the 800 knuckle out of the box, or
c) to drill it with a 7deg reamer AND use a different tie rod end like the newer knuckles.

Also, when reaming the ball joints, how far should I aim for? I watched a couple XJ and Ford videos (apparently custom knuckles are popular in those circles), but the ones I watched didn't exactly say what to look for other than that "it fits".

 

[dbrannon79]

@drag sgt, iirc @Big T was working on a such conversion. he might be able to point you in the right direction.

 

[n8in8or]

@drag sgt Here’s the part of the thread where I did the GMT800 conversion on my 96 K2500.

Post in thread '1996 K2500 “Krovvy”'
https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/1996-k2500-“krovvy”.48796/post-590172

 

[drag sgt]

@drag sgt Here’s the part of the thread where I did the GMT800 conversion on my 96 K2500.

Post in thread '1996 K2500 “Krovvy”'
https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/1996-k2500-“krovvy”.48796/post-590172

Thanks, @n8in8or. I'm assuming you had 01+ knuckles since you had both 7* and 10* bits? I watched the video where you also mentioned cutting down on the spindle to get full tie-rod articulation, which isn't something I'd read in other threads. I also hadn't seen mention of needing to stack a bunch of washers, was that due to too much reaming?

 

[n8in8or]

Thanks, @n8in8or. I'm assuming you had 01+ knuckles since you had both 7* and 10* bits? I watched the video where you also mentioned cutting down on the spindle to get full tie-rod articulation, which isn't something I'd read in other threads. I also hadn't seen mention of needing to stack a bunch of washers, was that due to too much reaming?

Oh man, that’s what I get for posting something years after I did it….

And I also see I didn’t start you in the right spot, but you seem to have figured that out. Sorry about that…..I was coming in for dinner and trying to find the right post in a hurry.

As I recall, these are 2003 knuckles, so yeah, 2002+

The washers were necessary on the lowers because I needed to ream that far so I had enough clearance between the ball joint and the CV joint.

The upper I deliberately reamed that deep and then needing washers because I wanted to maintain the distance between the upper and lower balljoints so the control arms would go through their arcs the same as they would have from the factory, which was important to me.

 

[Big T]

Oh man, that’s what I get for posting something years after I did it….

And I also see I didn’t start you in the right spot, but you seem to have figured that out. Sorry about that…..I was coming in for dinner and trying to find the right post in a hurry.

As I recall, these are 2003 knuckles, so yeah, 2002+

The washers were necessary on the lowers because I needed to ream that far so I had enough clearance between the ball joint and the CV joint.

The upper I deliberately reamed that deep and then needing washers because I wanted to maintain the distance between the upper and lower balljoints so the control arms would go through their arcs the same as they would have from the factory, which was important to me.

Same clearance issues for me. Ended up at a 2 washer stack.

 

[DieselAmateur]

@drag sgt there are some unicorn knuckles from the early NBS ('99-'01 or something like that) from Non- HD 2500 trucks where the factory GMT400 tie rods will fit and the only reaming needed is for the ball joints. Hard to say what the wrecker yard will have until you get your hands on it.

If you have to ream the tie rods, the ES409 tie rods will fit the reamed knuckle and thread into the GMT400 sleeve

You can also swap out your LCAs with the GMT800 LCAs, they fit right up with the torsion bars and then you only need to ream out the upper ball joint

 

[Big T]

@drag sgt there are some unicorn knuckles from the early NBS ('99-'01 or something like that) from Non- HD 2500 trucks where the factory GMT400 tie rods will fit and the only reaming needed is for the ball joints. Hard to say what the wrecker yard will have until you get your hands on it.

If you have to ream the tie rods, the ES409 tie rods will fit the reamed knuckle and thread into the GMT400 sleeve

You can also swap out your LCAs with the GMT800 LCAs, they fit right up with the torsion bars and then you only need to ream out the upper ball joint

I like the GMT-800 LCA solution. Less reaming is mo betta.

 

[Will L.]

I like the GMT-800 LCA solution. Less reaming is mo betta.

You know you can’t say mo betta without the rest of it…

 

[Big T]

You know you can’t say mo betta without the rest of it…

I provided a portion of the production financing for Shelton "Spike" Lee's Malcolm X secured by the foreign distribution rights which were picked up by JVC's Largo Entertainment. It was my first of many film production financings. Shelton over ran the budget significantly resulting in a claim against the Completion Bond. The bond company was owned by Transamerica insurance and the president of the bond company was a black woman. When it came time to negotiate the settlement, Shelton was sitting next to the Jewish executives of Warner Bros who had the domestic rights. Transamerica exited the film completion bond business after that claim and the President lost her job. Nice job Shelton Lee.

 

[DieselAmateur]

@n8in8or any chance you remember the part # for the QA1 tie rod sleeves used on "Krovvy?" Looks like a great upgrade to stock. I tried looking on QA1's website but they don't have an option to select a k2500 for cross reference, and over the phone I was told the only sleeve they have in 11/16" on both ends is only 3.5" long which seems kinda short compared to the factory 5"

 

[n8in8or]

@n8in8or any chance you remember the part # for the QA1 tie rod sleeves used on "Krovvy?" Looks like a great upgrade to stock. I tried looking on QA1's website but they don't have an option to select a k2500 for cross reference, and over the phone I was told the only sleeve they have in 11/16" on both ends is only 3.5" long which seems kinda short compared to the factory 5"

These are the ones. I’d have to measure the length tomorrow.

Check out this page from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-5252/make/chevrolet/model/camaro/year/1980

 

[drag sgt]

I like the GMT-800 LCA solution. Less reaming is mo betta.

Did you have to trim the bump stop at all in addition to trimming the lower shock tabs? I saw the YT video where a guy did that when doing the LCA swap.

For anybody interested, I pulled up an old web captured version of the FSC thread using the Internet Archive. You should be able to see it here and the pics still work: https://web.archive.org/web/2015110...h/502106-obs-nbs-k2500-hub-swap-possible.html

It sounds like all pathways require a lot of effort, but the 99-00 LCA route does seem the easiest, trading additional required reaming for less invasive trimming, with the added benefit of no tie rod reaming (that year 800 brake lines may also directly fit without an adapter it sounds like?).

There's a few machine shops locally, I bet one of them is familiar with the process and could be more time efficient to pay to have it done if the cost isn't prohibitive.

I'm glad I asked because it looks like there are a few other less-documented tricks, including the driver's side LCA bolt behind the differential. I also mentally spaced that the torsion bars will need to be loosened. Good thing I'm not in the rust belt.