• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Blow by

Like our friend from Ak said, lot of miles left in it. Watch for a smokin deal patiently.

The atf thing is done when you can leave the engine sit a couple days, and right when oil change is due. Disconnect battery so you can’t accidentally crank it over. Remove the glow plugs and put 1/2 cup of atf down each cylinder. Let it sit for 36-48 hours. Turn the engine over by hand NOT THE STARTER. this will push out any remaining atf from cylinders. Then after a couple revolutions you can put back in glows and start it. It will smoke a second, then clean up. The atf helps lossen rings stuck to the piston so they can float properly.

Dont get the seafoam that is poured into fuel tank.
seafoam into intake just like the water into intake would be, but seafoam can is a sray bottle so much easier.
water:
Seafoam:
 
I shipped a pallet, IIRC, about 500 pounds from My house to Anchorage Alaska, Old Dominion was the carrier, Kory said freight was under $400.00.
Anything going to Alaska costs more for freight, I believe.
 
I may try the water and sea foam thing later on, I had to get the truck back together and move it out of the back drive way since we have a poor sad VW jetta diesel with severe mold problems in the interior. The kids volunteered today to mask up and start wiping it down! got it to the back and we all went to town doing a deep cleaning on it this evening. It's our backup vehicle now, been sitting under a tree since shortly after the big freeze!

on the water and seafoam spray, can that be sprayed into the turbo or do I need to pull the intake hose after the turbo and spray in there? Also I have the high idle switch installed that keeps it at a little over a grand rpm, is that enough while spraying it in or do I need to have someone keeping it up at higher rpms? just curious.

I had actually been considering building a WMI system on the truck before all these issues came about, would I benefit any with this given with the low compression and possible stuck rings it has currently? I just changed the oil today adding the engine restore additive. When checking the level before hand, it was about a quart n half low since the last change was done (honestly it was about 500 miles over due).
 
After the turbo is how i done it before. 2,000 is best results.

that seafoam and or water usually raises compression a little bit. Never heard of anyone with worse conditions afterwards.
I would say do the seafoam asap, the water can wait until you get closer to next oil change.

Running 1 qt low is not a big deal, hut wouldn’t be more low than that. In your spare time, search on here about “catch can” or provent 200. That will save you some lost oil.
 
Hey guys. I figured this was the best place to post an update on my slowly dieing engine. I was messing around with the truck today and figured I’d check to see if the blow by was any worse than a few months ago. Although I can’t remember where I posted the first video at so here’s what my truck is doing. Engine is at normal temperature idling…

first video was from three months ago. Second is from today

 
Not enough to worry about. Later as it burns too much oil, add a provent200 or similar.

But why do we have a clear fuel line on all the time? Just for this situation.
Watch your own video at 18 second and 48 second mark. Watch the clear line.
You have air intrusion and need to find/fix it.
This is more important than your blow by right now.
 
Duh! Sorry, I watched that and got distracted.

Yeah it is more. Just plan on the provent. You can either have it drain in automatically which is more work setting up, or just drain it out the bottom into a can, then pour it back in rather than buying oil each time.
 
I hear ya on that. I need to pull my filter tube off the turbo and check it again since I had cleaned it all out but I don’t think it’s too bad. I’m into my last oil change by about 1800 miles and so far I’ve lost or should is say I’ve had to add about a quart

I actually have had a couple ideas on building a sort of oil catch that would drain back into the valve cover using some stainless dish scrubbers in a tube and still be able to leave the hose connected to the front of the turbo. I need to try that idea and see if it will help some
 
Yes valve cover would be way too high.

I don’t think you could/ should do turbo return. You have to have an air brake valve so it doesn’t just bypass air back into the catch can That would make the oil build up into a descent amount of liquid Coming down each time it releases and that could mess with oil return from turbo.

Basically the turbo has to drain into a void, but the vent drain has to return into the liquid level of the oil pan. My plan is to add a fitting into the bottom area of the oil pan and use it.

This is the provent, and the filter that is replaced- a stainless steel screen version is made that just gets wiped clean.
 
@Will L. we have most all of the equipment at work with one of these on them installed from factory. if I were to try installing one on mine, would I still be able to use the turbo to relief the over pressure from the worn out engine blowby just as the CDR is installed? also the drain hose, I would have to find a return connection like modifying the oil pan?

I was thinking it would just sit over the valve cover and basically take the place of the CDR valve where the oil that was sucked out would drain back into the same hole in the valve cover and only crankcase vapor would get past it into the turbo intake.

with this, I would have to (like you said) make a drain on the engine or devise a catch can that could be poured back into the engine every so often. having the catch can would also help me see just how much oil I'm loosing from blowby.

it would be nice if I could switch around the valve covers and have this on the drivers side where there's more room to mount things lol
 
Here is a video of a guy who did HDP vs provent (provent is the best in the world) but he shows how to do a drain line instead of auto return to engine. Really if a person is doing a rebuild- make it auto drain. Otherwise just drain it yourself.


As to the route- put your cdr on the shelf in the garage incase you ever need it for an inspection later. The cdr means sucking out LESS OIL AND PRESSURE at higher rpm. Problem is higher rpm is where it is the worst. But if you ran no catch can without cdr you would double oil burned. You go from valve cover where cdr was at to can. Then can to the same place you did on the turbo intake piping.
 

I have blow-by about like yours and I used a pressure washer strainer and filled it up with Brillo pads. I don’t put many miles on the truck since I have a work truck but I try to manually drain it about every three months or so. It has worked pretty dang good. Better than I ever thought it would to be honest.
 
@Jaryd i like this ! I just may do this :)
I do have a question. It was talked about in your thread and another one linked in there about the need for the CDR valve. Is the CDR needed with this setup? I think the way the CDR works is to close when the turbo pulls higher boost so it doesn’t pull much from the engine. But when it’s at higher rpm is when more blow by is present. I’d like to pull that blow by into the container.
 
The CDR, I too was wondering if it would be a good thing to have it hanging on.
It apparently must slow down tje blowby some and I am thinking when I build the pressure warsher cannister system that I would leave the CDR in place.
 
Back
Top