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Blow by

all this talk about CC filters lol.... 🤣

I have been looking up different CC filter kits online and checking cross references on CC filters we keep here at work for the equipment trying to find housing assemblies they fit. I ran across the Fleetguard CV52035 and 36 which look like a decent fit. they don't seem to have a valve installed in them, reading the tech data on them. unfortunately I couldn't post the PDF's I found on them due to the upload file size limits. I still have to check pricing and availability for them and their replacement filters though.

if you all get a chance to google them, let me know your opinions. Here's a pic of one and its filter inside.

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Will L. said:
I will leave this alone after 2 comments to not sidetrack this thread.
Let’s start a new thread if the subject is enough to carry on.
1. anyone can figure out if 100 units of moisture comes in from the ocean in the air, and 50 are extracted in location A, 25 units extracted in location B, how much is left for location C. Location C will not be unmodified.
2. I have several family members involved in the studies and actual seeding going back from the late 50’s. Much of what is put out is misinformation, why is the conspiracy- not if it happens.
Click to expand...

Did you read the part about seeding impacting individual clouds, not weather patterns? Drought is a longer term weather pattern as opposed to a cloud or clouds passing overhead.
 
In the CVM200, I would say find air flow specs on it and compare to the provent before buying. Many people get some diy (even really nice diy) units of ebay- but when comparison testing is done the provent beats them all.

I believe the valve is present on the discharge port location. When I get a chance I can send pic of what that looks like on the provent I bought.
Notice that almost 19” distance from the drain fitting to the check valve- you then go from the check valve into the engine. Eazy peazy on a big cam 400 cummins, not so much on a 6.5.
 
And I was thinking the inlet port of the CC filter, from the engine, would be down low and the outlet to the intake port of the manifold would be up higher to get farther away from the oil reservoir.
 
I just posted on Bison’s thread:

Bison hooked up the provent backwards. Wish I was around then to have helped him. Only pointing this out for future readers to know. The valve cover tube should have went to the top and the vacuum side (turbo inlet tap) goes to the bottom. Look in the picture I post and I am pointing to an arrow made into the provent which indicates direction of air flow. Also you can watch this video from the mfr and notice which one they connect the valve cover to.

This is why Bison always had pressure, and what he probably wasn’t aware of is the coalescing filter would not work anywhere near as well as it should have. I would be amazed if it removed half the oil it should have.


BB162506-0F69-4FD4-B3A3-590A2F0EA8FB.jpeg
 
on my way home this evening from work I started thinking about the composition of the filter media in these CC filters. there is a term for it, but it's only a fine woven glass media in a thin sheet that is wrapped around the plastic frame of the filter. this got me to thinking about the water screen filter that others have gotten from places like tractor supply, they have used stainless and bronze scrubies in them for surface material to catch the oil from the vapor.

then it hit me how would cotton work like a kids sock stretched over that screen or even a layer or two of the ankle type panty hose. even woven fiberglass with a panty hose over it keeping the fibers in place (not to get into the intake) as for the drain, not sure how thick the plastic bowl it on the unit, but if it were possible to drill and tap a drain for a 1/4" hose on the bottom having a small twist type inline valve hanging below deck to drain into a can every so often. all sorts of materials were going though my head, even coffee filters lol. but the idea to make it something that can be cleaned and reinstalled so that it's not a must have extras on hand in case of the SHTF situation and supplies are diminished, plus expense for them as prices on everything is rising.

I know I'm going out on a limb there, but thinking about it, the total cost for such of a device would be around $35-$40ish including the hose and clamps needed.

I could do a test on something like this using different materials between oil changes and use a clear hose on the exit port going to the turbo intake just to see if oil starts to get past the filter. having an engine with blow by would be a plus for testing things like this.

becides just heading out and going for the provent which I may end up doing at the end of all things, what do y'all think about this idea?
 
No. My hummer had roughly 35,000 miles on it when I bought it and already had issue from previous owner, I knew replacing engine was going to happen. A bit over 70,000 miles is when I dropped in the new optimizer, so I didn’t worry about it then. I put another 70-75,000 on it and it was time to add one so that it would be in place when oil starts getting through enough to notice. I thought I had an injector giving me a small knock, and found a bosch glow plug tip broke off and destroying a piston. Pulled the engine apart and here I sit.

I am familiar with provent from other usage, just not on this 6.5 yet. installing it from the beginning of the new engine is game plan this time.

I knew something was off with Bison’s with the mention of having any pressure at all. That is not how these work unless the can gets restriction in air flow - they operate in the negative (slight vacuum).

Many of the catch cans you will see are a simple small can with a filter on top, but understand that is diy guys copying what they see in drag cars where a vacuum pump is also in use to bring the system down to 15 sometimes 20 inches of vacuum for the power gains. Most are running dry sump oil systems as well. But that style can without the vacuum pump is no more effective than just putting a filter atop the valve cover and ending there.

Yes you can absolutely build your own can, experiment with different filter media, log the data, etc. But understand this was all done starting in the 1960s. Each engine runs different, diesel, gas, alcohol. Then there is another difference when adding turbo/supercharger. Then if the system is passive or uses a belt/electric vacuum pump.
Also if you choose to auto drain back or manually dump the oil.

If you want to, you can cheaply order the knock off which is built to exact specifications except has stainless steel filter which gets wiped down or rinsed and reinstalled. It doesn’t stop oil as well obviously but a person could buy the MannHummel filter and experiment with them to see the difference. And it probably cheaper than most can diy for at under $45. Note it does not come with the oil return check valve, most drain into a bottle and try to filter out water vapor contamination before pouring back in. A simple 5 minutes added at oil change time.

The actual filter is like $20. The oil return check valve is around $15. So $80 and you have a descent knock off of what after decades of testing proved to be the best, for this application.

Remember if you choose to build your own - do something for pressure relief, and strongly consider low oil volume warning sensor in the pan to light up early warning. What happens when your diy filter plugs, and you build from 10 to 20, even 30psi pressure? Goodbye front and rear main seals. People think about oil pan, valve cover gaskets leaking and assume they might have to spend a couple hours with a ratchet and tube of silicone. Nopers- weakest link my friend is the tiny non compressed seal around the spinny shaft at each end. 10psi is easily achieved by n/a gas engines running 10:1 compression, and 6psi is normal! Wanna guess how well a seal can not just seep but tear when 21:1 and 12psi boost goes passed some old rings? Nice new flexible seals will dump the pressure along with whatever oil is in the way and when pressure subsides will return to proper position and seal up again. Old hardened seals that don't flex well anymore lift from the pressure and crack, even loose a chunk. Usually at least it’s the front main seal that dies first, much easier replaced.

My suggestion is before you start drawing concepts and buying parts- spend some time searching the testing already done in decades past to save yourself a lot of aggravation. Then by all mean, experiment away. But knowing the pitfalls ahead of time is probably worth it.
 
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@Will L. Ya know what's crazy, I had already crawled all over amazon looking at ones they sold and never saw the one you linked lol.

I was actually looking for something generic that had a filter like this where I possibly could get replacements for. all the ones I found didn't come apart for cleaning or filter replacements.

I am one that likes to experiment with things even though I do end up re-inventing the wheel sometimes.

would you know if this generic CC kit uses the same filter as the provent 200?
 
Is this the Mann+Hummell Pro Vent unit:

MANN+HUMMEL ProVent 200 Oil separator 3931070550 | eBay

If so, how and where would you mount it?

Where does the oil drain to? Short of dropping the oil pan to braze in a fitting, could you install a "Y" on the turbo drain line into the oil pan?

Do you delete the CDR and install hose from there to the provent, then from the provent to the turbo intake?
 
I was thinking of mount something like this on the drivers side. Or possibly the passenger side fan shroud. And let a drain hose just dangle down below with a little shutoff valve to drain it every so often.

I too am curious about deleting the CDR using this
 
Yeah, real one isn’t that much more expensive. Worth it imo- thats why I keep suggesting it.
Look at how Bison mounted his- it is nice lookin. Except he has the two big hoses backwards. But yes he added a fitting into the oil pan (down below the oil level is preferred). You can mount it anywhere away from the heat of turbo and exhaust.

Get rid of cdr, You actually want as much vacuum as possible.

The drain you have options:
*Into oil pan below oil level.
*You can go anywhere into the engine above oil line but you have to use the oil return check valve. The difficult part here is I DO NOT recommend going into the turbo drain line. If you watch the video, what happens is the check valve retains a decent amount of oil before it discharges. That inrush of oil could slow/ stop the free flow of oil coming out the turbo, damaging turbo bearing. Just not worth the risk. If you were to remove the plate where the turbo drain bolts to the engine and add a separate drain port so the turbo always has free flow- then ok.
*you can put a small ball valve with a cap on the end. Then drain it periodically into a bottle and pour back into the engine. Doing it each oil change is common practice. If you have a lot of blow by- do it more often. Basically how often you normally have to add 1 quart. Just make sure you have large enough hose so it and CC hold that volume. Some guys I am friends with in a fleet that run extra deep oil pans will run the drain hose to a small tank on the frame so it holds 3 quarts.
 
That’s a good idea having a bottle mounted to drain into especially for higher blow by engines

when I looked online for the provent. The cheapest is saw was $140. Highest at $170.

that’s my main reason for the knock off one lol. But I also know we get what we pay for too.

I may try the Amazon one just to see if it’ll work mainly because they allow returns easily within a month of purchase even if used
 
dbrannon79 said:
That’s a good idea having a bottle mounted to drain into especially for higher blow by engines

when I looked online for the provent. The cheapest is saw was $140. Highest at $170.

that’s my main reason for the knock off one lol. But I also know we get what we pay for too.

I may try the Amazon one just to see if it’ll work mainly because they allow returns easily within a month of purchase even if used
Click to expand...

I like bottle suggestion, as I’d only do the drain to fitting oil pan if I had the engine out.

Will L. So you have suggestions for a bottle and where to mount on these trucks?
 
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