jrsavoie
Recruit
I've been bolting mine to the license plate bracket bolts
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so this stuff to seal it to the heat sink?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arctic-Silv...hermal_Compounds_Supplies&hash=item58a7051fd4 YES
do I even use a pad with this stuff? how much do I put on? do I pull the resistor covers and pack it in around the resistors, trying to fill all air gaps? No pad, remove plastic & pack it in there. 100% film contact on heat sink.
when I am done, what is the best way to seal the PMD to the heat sink? I have some White, General Electric (bought at wal-mart) Silicone. waterproof, paintable, 3 hour rain ready, 30 min. paint ready, dries in 24 hours. would something like this work to seal it? Goop brand adhesive IMO, but any outdoor RTV type product will work.
If so, do I just run a bead around the perimeter and thats it? Yes
It is ok to use dielectric grease in the PMD plug, correct? Yes
thanks for all the input folks, I wasnt this concerned when i put the used D-tech on the heatsink, but I want to make sure I do it up right with the brand new Stanadyne.
ok, checked the website and this is what I found:
"LEROY'S Heat sink and 6'cable for Flight Systems. $69.99"
I need this, but need it to fit the stanadyne PMD, and no stanadyne listing is available.
would it work best for you to send me a bill via paypal to cover the proper kit, versus me hitting buy it now on the flight systems PMD described above?
Inside the bumper area between the 2 nostrils,, is a plastic air deflector,, I put 4 holes in that, and zip tied my unit to the top of that plastic. That's it. No hard install, I can reach in and get the unit out if I want, and once it's out of the engine bay,, it don't matter witch way it's facing. as the heat form the PMD will be dissipated thru the aluminium fins. I can reach in there on a 90F day, after 3hrs of driving,, and the heat sink isn't any warmer than the outside air.