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Best way to mount PMD Cable.com's relocation kit.

GM Guy

GM Guy

Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
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NW Kansas and SC Idaho
Hey guys, I got Burning oil's (PMD Cable.com) package yesterday, andI am itching to install it all.

On the PMD relocation, do I need any heat transfer goop, or do i mount it direct?

also, does the fins need to be forward, or backward (facing the radiator)

is there any advantage to which license plate hole to use?

any input appreciated, thanks guys!
 
On the ones I've mounted ,I cut a piece of 1 1/2x1 1/2 angle iron about 1 1/2 inches longer than the space between the top license plate bracket. Then drilled a 3/8 hole 3/4 inch in from the end. The installation is much easier with the grille and filler between the grille and bumper removed. Remove the top 2 license plate bracket bolts. Get some 3/8 bolts that are 1/2 in longer or so. Bolt the angle iron to one of the new longer bolts. Line it up with the other license plate bracket hole and mark the angle for the other hole. Then drill the other hole in the angle. I mounted the heat sink so the fsd was on the bottom side so water ,snow or ice wouldn't be sitting on it. With the angle bolted on finger tight you can choose the location of the heat sink/fsd. Mark the holes. Remove the angle again and drill the holes to mount the heat sink to the angle. I used the heat transfer pad and sealed around the fsd with form-a gasket. Supposedly any type of rtv silicone can corrode the connections inside the fsd. Sorry no pics
 
mounting the heat sync on the intake??? thats what i did because i didnt get the harness extension. do ya think i will be better off with extending it to the bumper or fire wall
 
I am in the process of relocating the current one off the intake. Luckily it was a D-tech, so I think there is a lower chance of it frying itself. That is why I ordered the relocation kit only, rather than the whole kit.
 
Inside the bumper area between the 2 nostrils,, is a plastic air deflector,, I put 4 holes in that, and zip tied my unit to the top of that plastic. That's it. No hard install, I can reach in and get the unit out if I want, and once it's out of the engine bay,, it don't matter witch way it's facing. as the heat form the PMD will be dissipated thru the aluminium fins. I can reach in there on a 90F day, after 3hrs of driving,, and the heat sink isn't any warmer than the outside air.
 
PMD is not a moving part. So you can mount/fasten it anywhere outside the engine hood.

The prep for the heatsink: drill the holes to fasten the heatsink wherever you want it. Put a very thin layer of ArcticSilver 5 or heat transfer compound on both surface (heatsink and PMD). Take off that plastic cap, if it is there. Tighten the PMD to the heatsink. Make sure the resistor is in there. Fasten the Heatsink to your mounting location. Hook up the cable.
 
GM Guy said:
Hey guys, I got Burning oil's (PMD Cable.com) package yesterday, andI am itching to install it all.

On the PMD relocation, do I need any heat transfer goop, or do i mount it direct?

also, does the fins need to be forward, or backward (facing the radiator)

is there any advantage to which license plate hole to use?

any input appreciated, thanks guys!
Click to expand...

IMO just use the heat transfer pad that comes with the PMD. Dtech has assured me that it is better than the "goops" and they are the one that will warranty the part.
Fins go against the bumper.
Use pass side licence plate bolt hole.

I am getting close to redoing my web site and will have a couple videos on this.
 
I dont believe any pad can be as thermally efficient as metal to metal, in which case some thermal grease/goop is needed to make up for imperfections. Using arctic silver is the best, and you should only put the arctic silver on the PMD surface, it should be a very thin layer. Like use a plastic credit card type deal and spread it real thin running it over and over scraping it off until its nice and pretty even layer. Then screw it down as tight as possible.

That said the pad probably works fine when in the bumper.

I would "weather proof" it with some silicone bead around the base of the PMD after mounting it to the heatsink.
 
Leroy, I snagged a new Stanadyne PMD in a parts lot, and will be making up another kit with parts from you.

what all comes in a bare cable and heat sink kit these days? I got a genuine stanadyne baggie of screws, and a heat transfer pad with this new PMD, but the pad looks like someone stabbed it with a pencil in a few places, so its dented, but not punctured. I am thinking i better not use it.

is the heat transfer pad all I really need, or do I need to seal it with some goop of some sort?

someone mentioned earlier to remove the plastic caps on the resistors, yay or nay?
 
Comes with cable , heat sink and mounting bolt.

Use heat transfer pad/or not. For warranty purposses "you used it". I would seal the PMD to the heat sink with Goop brand adhesive.

IMO if using paste the remove plastic caps otherwise no.
 
do you sell the heat transfer pad?

do you think mine is useable?

if I use a pad, do I need to use anything else? maybe seal the perimeter and thats it?
 
When I got a new PMD The pad was folded in half in the package. I unfolded it, covered it in heat transfer gel/grease on both sides. I also ran a bead of silicone around the outside edge and in the bolt holes. I haven't looked at it in 3 years.
 
GM Guy said:
do you sell the heat transfer pad?

do you think mine is useable?

if I use a pad, do I need to use anything else? maybe seal the perimeter and thats it?
Click to expand...

Use your judgement, without seeing it I can't say.
Yes seal PMD to heat sink
I have a new pad for Flight Systems PMD I can send you if you want?
 
so this stuff to seal it to the heat sink?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arctic-Silv...hermal_Compounds_Supplies&hash=item58a7051fd4

do I even use a pad with this stuff? how much do I put on? do I pull the resistor covers and pack it in around the resistors, trying to fill all air gaps?




when I am done, what is the best way to seal the PMD to the heat sink? I have some White, General Electric (bought at wal-mart) Silicone. waterproof, paintable, 3 hour rain ready, 30 min. paint ready, dries in 24 hours. would something like this work to seal it?

If so, do I just run a bead around the perimeter and thats it?




It is ok to use dielectric grease in the PMD plug, correct?

thanks for all the input folks, I wasnt this concerned when i put the used D-tech on the heatsink, but I want to make sure I do it up right with the brand new Stanadyne.
 
I mounted mine behind the grill on the passenger side, right by the cold air intake. I put the fins out, pmd towards the core support. I only used the pad that came with it. 3 months in NE Ohio weather and no issues yet.
 
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