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adding some things to my truck got a few ?s

6.5dragracer

6.5dragracer

Chevy Man...
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i just bought a resistor #9 from SS diesel and i bought a turbo-master from heaths diesel but they say that you need to put on a chip to, is this true or will it work without the chip???

And if it does work without it will it tear up my motor or will it be fine:confused:
 
You'll be fine, just set the TM to heaths instructions for a non chipped truck.
 
It may not work much better if you dont have a reflashed PCM to accomodate it. Unless the vacuum system was just broke. Either way a PCM reflash would make either work better and provide you with 10 times more performance increase at 3 times the costs

To better utilize the TM with your stock PCM, you can install a boost fooler on the intake boost sensor. Its just a potentiometer that with increasing resistance will report less and less boost compared to what its actually seeing. So the PCM wont freak out when youre holding 11 psi when it wants to see 6psi.
 
I'm running non chipped TM for over a year now. You'll like the newly found boost. I also noticed EGT's dropped around 200 on average all around. HUGE difference there.

Comes with a MPG cost however. I lost a few.
 
Someone here will point you in the right direction or try search. A boost fooler can be made for very little money. A lot less than $240
 
The boost fooler is just a $10 10kohm potentiometer you wire into the wires that go to the boost (MAP) sensor. JiFaire made a diagram if you look in the tech library for boost fooler.

For $240 you might as well get a Kojo tune for $350 :) I guess if someone makes a boost fooler that costs that much it is probably plug and play, so no cutting wires and soldering or crimping. Still not worth it when you are 2/3 the way to a good PCM program.
 
Do yourself a favor and do some reading first. We've all done what you are trying now, about 5 to 10 years ago. Learn from our experiences and save money too. I went the TM, #9 resistor, boost fooler etc route. You'd be better off saving up and spending the money on 4" exhaust, KOJO tune and an ATT.
If you do go the boost fooler route, buy a 10k resistor for $10 at Radio Shack, don't give someone $240 for it. And like Buddy said, if you've got $240 you're almost to a KOJO tune. #9 resistor and boost fooler won't help performance, not noticeably anyway, if at all.
What we've all learned could be summed up in the order of importance.
1) exhaust WITH downpipe
2) gauges, pyro and boost at the least
3) feed the beast
4) tune (KOJO is the best price so far and custom tuned for you)
5) timing
6) A-Team Turbo

ok, gurus, what am I forgetting?
 
AS Matt said, there can be gains with the TM, mainly because you will sustain boost where it once would drop off. ALthough I was testing this the other day just to see what getting a DTC78 felt like and it would work OK without the fooler, until I had my foot into it and was sustaining boost then I would defuel from the DTC78. So the fooler is advantageous so the PCM sees 2-3 psi less boost than actual.

The ATT and tune is quite an expense, unfortunately, and maybe not necessary for someone not ever towing.

I would put the timing to -1.5 to -1.94 TDCO as the first thing to do even if you have not done anything else, and it can be free with a freind that has scanner. And as well, with the exhaust, need Mandrel Bent Xover just as much as the mandrel bent downpipe, and lose the Cat ASAP.

Also, for an "S" L56 guy, deleting the EGR completely from inside the intake and outside, and just finding an F PCM to swap in can be a modest gain, and could be cheap if you pull the intake and PCM out of a junkyard, or can just gut the intake you have, and block off the center EGR shaft internally.

Detroit Dan said:
I went the TM, #9 resistor, boost fooler etc route. You'd be better off saving up and spending the money on 4" exhaust, KOJO tune and an ATT.
#9 resistor and boost fooler won't help performance, not noticeably anyway, if at all.
What we've all learned could be summed up in the order of importance.

1) exhaust WITH downpipe
2) gauges, pyro and boost at the least
3) feed the beast
4) tune (KOJO is the best price so far and custom tuned for you)
5) timing
6) A-Team Turbo

ok, gurus, what am I forgetting?
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Pretty good list, Dan... maybe a few tweaks, if ya don't mind:

First, here's the 6.5 Technical Reference Library - it's on a sticky at the top of the 6,5 forum.

Exhaust with downpipe: The factory exhaust is very restrictive, especially the downpipe. Putting in 3" mandrel-bent tubing will really free up your truck. This is really important when you add more fuel (with a chip) or boost (with a TM/fooler) because if the hot exhaust can't get out, your EGTs climb and you melt stuff.

I'm gonna add air here - diesels are big air pumps, and you need to be able to get air in and exhaust out to make them run right. Your truck is an 'S' model (the 8th digit of your VIN is S, means you have an EGR). Lots of those 96s still had extra webbing in the intake plenum that really restricted the airflow. John Kennedy has a good pictorial description of how to help your airflow here. Putting on a TM to raise your boost will help push more in, but if the path is restricted, you just waste HP and heat up your incoming air (IAT) which is counter-productive.

Fuel - the 'Feed-the-beast mod is important - and I'm gonna add in "as is having a decent lift pump".. if you can't get fuel TO the injection pump when your foot is in the floor, your truck just won't go. You really do need a fuel pressure gauge - they're cheap, easy to use, and help diagnose all kinds of issues.

Rest of the list looks good, Dan. I'm sure Buddy or some of the other guys will chime in and add to this!

Hey, 6.5 dragracer - that's a cute little truck you got! Can you post up some bigger pics? My olde eyes aren't what they used to be and that avatar is awfully small!
 
Holy cow, I didn't even think ofthe half ton S intake problem. Get that taken care of first. And when I brought up 4 inch exhaust, it goes without saying that the converter soot trap should be used as a door stop only.
 
ok first i should elaborate what all my truck took to make it what it is today...

first it was a gas truck with a 350 in it then my dads 3500 6.5 craped out on him so i fixed that motor and converted everything over to the 1500 it already has a 3" striaght pipe with no cat and the 3500 didn't have none of the maf sensor or any of that stuff on it unless i'm misteaken...
 
Ahh, so no EGR for you in that 1500, thats good. What year was your dad's 3500? You must be using electronic injection with a PCM to use a #9 resistor in a PMD? You should add all the info about the truck in your signature.
 
Do you have OBDI or OBDII? If your dads truck was a 94-95 it was OBDI, 96+ was OBDII.

You have a 4L80E, what upgrade would you be doing, as the PCM is tranny specific and the torque converter is specifically for diesels with lower stall speed.
 
i converted my truck into a 96 i took everything off or my dads 96 3500 and put it on my truck i don't know that much else so whatever his truck had my truck has now...
 
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