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A New Victim Brought To Barry's Refuge

I'd say the block is a for sure hot tank candidate. I don't see any other way to get all that crap out. Bearings look WAY better than I would have guessed.


The sludge cleans off quite easy. I can pump diesel fuel through the oiling system to clean it out[I have a priming tool]. I'll pull the cam and lifters out to clean them and check the cam bearings. I'm thinking for $300 I should be able to get it running again if I don't find real bad things .
I just got home with the optimiser donor truck. I won't mention the RUST-FREE 93 k2500 6.5 that I looked at[made offer on] on the way home:WTF::agreed: :eek: :D
 
Bearings show the same damage from coolant that the burb engine I had was showing. The inside of an engine with coolant in it will be a mess and the longer it sits the more rust you get ruining precision machined surfaces like IP gears and rocker arms. Lifters are filled with this...

Interesting to see this in person from a more or less surprise opportunity to be in the area. This is as bad as 6.5 addictions can get. :eek: Looks like I need to plan on a bigger garage...

I can't wrap my mind around that much coolant in the oil from a head gasket. I guess I would be checking the block extra careful for cracks.

The clutch was just a mess down to the bent looking pressure plate to flywheel bolts. Looks like it was slipping and hot spotted things - after the clutch job. I guess the drive shaft vibration could have caused the cracks or severe abuse. I would not use any part of it again including the flywheel due to the risk of the clutch exploding from damage. It had scary bad and then some written all over it. No matter the clutch you go with a new throwout bearing and pilot bearing are a good idea - never had luck with throw out bearings lasting long.

How did the injectors check out? Did they cause the unusual missing metal on the #7 piston or was it the head gasket failure?
 
Bearings show the same damage from coolant that the burb engine I had was showing. The inside of an engine with coolant in it will be a mess and the longer it sits the more rust you get ruining precision machined surfaces like IP gears and rocker arms. Lifters are filled with this...

Interesting to see this in person from a more or less surprise opportunity to be in the area. This is as bad as 6.5 addictions can get. :eek: Looks like I need to plan on a bigger garage...

I can't wrap my mind around that much coolant in the oil from a head gasket. I guess I would be checking the block extra careful for cracks.

The clutch was just a mess down to the bent looking pressure plate to flywheel bolts. Looks like it was slipping and hot spotted things - after the clutch job. I guess the drive shaft vibration could have caused the cracks or severe abuse. I would not use any part of it again including the flywheel due to the risk of the clutch exploding from damage. It had scary bad and then some written all over it. No matter the clutch you go with a new throwout bearing and pilot bearing are a good idea - never had luck with throw out bearings lasting long.

How did the injectors check out? Did they cause the unusual missing metal on the #7 piston or was it the head gasket failure?

There really wasn't that large of a amount of coolant in it. The crankcase was barely overfull.
I have to clean and disassemble now if there is any hope of saving it. The lifters will get replaced with another set of used ones. I don't think I could get all the gunk out of them.
I haven't tested the injectors yet to see how they are. There was a lot of deposits on the tops of the pistons like it was getting a diet of motor oil from the turbo maybe??
The clutch will be replaced. Rockauto has a clearance on them for $107.
 
Didn't catch this thread, sub'd for picts.

I really want to find me a broke down 6.5 and rebuild it one day, like your doing Barry.
 
The "599" is scrap. The engine donor truck is home

:shiiiiiite: :shiiiiiite: :shiiiiiite: I was cleaning the insides of the engine up tonight and keeping a eye out for cracks. I found a crack on one side of #3 main. I had suspicions that something wasn't right. The engine didn't turn over as freely as it should with no heads on. So much for that glimmer of hope I had for it. :mad2: Maybe the heads will be salvageable:???::skep:
I got some pics of the optimiser donor truck before I unloaded it tonight. You would never know that it has one of those engines in it :hihi:IMG_1979_1.jpg IMG_1980_2.JPG



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bk95td, you are THE KING of tear down/fix/repair/clean-up/paint/taking pictures and all the while doing it right. there are so many places where i would of taken a short cut (and paid for it later) but you stuck to and did it correctly. my hat is off to you. great threads......
 
and a spare NV4500 to boot! are you just gonna drop the complete powertrain in, since the recent one has less miles (am just assuming, but judging by the miles on the current one, very possible! :D )
 
and a spare NV4500 to boot! are you just gonna drop the complete powertrain in, since the recent one has less miles (am just assuming, but judging by the miles on the current one, very possible! :D )

This truck is a 91. Take a closer look at the pic of the shifter. No nv4500 in this one. 4 speed manual trans[really bad throw out bearing]. 4.10 gears. I couldn't see a 7th digit on the odometer. I'd bet the truck has 180,000 or 280,000 on it. My 91 had the tach i-c. It had the 7th digit on the odometer. The optimiser is supposed to only have 25,000 or less on it.
 
Im working on buying another one myself. Its a 95 1/2 ton ECSB 2wd He says it won't start.
 
now that you point that out, i see only 4 forward, and the plastic trim around the boot. I guess I wanted it to be a 5 speed, so I ignored all the signs! :)

yeah, my 91 gas has the moon guages, and it can go to 6+1, and the trip can go 3+1 (+1 is my way of saying the white tenths wheel) whereas my 91 diesel has the needles, with tach, and it goes to 6 on the odometer, and 3+1 on trip. right now it is sitting on 59000 miles even. gonna take a pic before I move it! lol
 
Mmmmm SM-465 with hydraulic clutch setup, I like it. I was just under my 83 earlier this week, adjusting my clutch linkage.
 
Parting out the original "599"block engine

I disassembled the scrap /cracked 599 engine tonight to gather any clues to the damage and scavenge any good parts that could be used on other engines.
The main and rod bearings didn't look too bad but all had signs of wear and fine scratches. The cam was a different story. All the cam bearings were into the copper so they had suffered excessive wear from the lack of lube. Cylinders looked ,ok but worn. There was a ridge at the top of the bores.
Crank and rods are salvageable. I haven't checked the heads over closely yet.
Lots of pics.





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Its an auto. Have not heard back from the guy yet.

Barry, those cam bearing should be good to go!




Go right in the trash

I believe the one I had in my hand was spinning on the bore.:eek: It has wear marks on the outside:nonod: It fell out:yikes: when I pulled the cam out.:shocked:
Apparently the oil pump could push the thick sludge into the crank bearings but not the cam or turbo.
 
A Boring day of Parts Cleaning

I spent all day cleaning parts from the "599" engine. All the parts except the block have been through the parts washer. The block is outside in the scrap pile.
The highlights of the day are : Cleaned the heads up to find cracks in both heads between the valves. Pistons look extremely good for 308,000 miles. No wear signs on the skirts.
The crankshaft is usable ,if straight, and needs minor polishing. Most other small parts are bagged and marked.
Cam and lifters are scrap since they were starved for oil:eek: Rocker arms will be tossed also. All and all not many usable parts.



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Cleaned the heads up to find cracks in both heads between the valves.


My machine shop said the cracks between the valves are no big deal to fix. Have you noticed the little freeze plug on the outside of the head (Four of them) about 3/8"-1/2" dia?? Anyway they cap a channel that leads the the exact spot between the valves. He said you can get some press in rods made to fill that area up solid.

Made sense to me.
 
There is a kit sold that uses valve guides to fill the area between the valves. Notice I didn't say the heads went on the scrap pile:D I had Diesel Depot do it to the optimiser heads that they put Diamond precups in for me. Diesel depot puts them in all 6.2 and 6.5 heads that go through their shop. I have more than a dozen sets of heads that aren't warped that need this done to them if the valve seats aren't cracked. Many times the crack will go right through the valve seat instead of just under it. New valve seat will add to the cost and require machining.
 
They are not wore through the coating anywhere. Very unusual for this many miles. Maybe it had synthetic oil in it most of it's life?
 
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