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A New Victim Brought To Barry's Refuge

I don't know how much truth there was to it, but the customer service guy told me rockauto supplies them with boxes and packing material. Maybe the wholesalers are selling the good boxes or using them for the higher profit sales to other customers. For me , the packages from Dallas seem to be the worst. This recent one from The Bronx runs a very close second. Packages from Iowa were packed very well and arrived next day after I ordered!
 
Inching along

I got the bald tires swapped onto another truck that had useable Bridgestone tires on it. Balanced also. Got the rear axle filled with 80-90[pia].
Went on to replace the one worn out original equipment upper ball joint. I used a NAPA top of the line ball joint. Made in USA. :thumbsup::thumbsup: High quality machining and a urethane dust boot.
Sway bar end link was mia so I replaced it with a made in usa end link kit.
Moving into the engine compartment next. I haven't decided yet weather to pull the tranny and transfer case with the engine or just take the engine out:???:
More pics as usual.

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Love those rivets..:mad2:

Lower K3500's are a barrel 'o' fun too.
They put up a bit of a fight coming out:smash::smash::boxing_smiley::mad5::cuss::cuss: This was the only bad joint. All the rest are OE with 308 k miles:yikes::yikes:
 
What motor is going in the newest addition to the fleet...the one out of the most recent capture or...?

Brand new rebuilt 6.2 red block with 6.5 heads. This is one of the 2 new rebuilts I picked up for $500 each last year.
 
It's satin black now:puke:. It will be red mostly.:bigok: It's only fitting for a red block:bow:
 
Preparing to pull the engine

I got started getting the engine ready to come out today.
First thing was to get rid of the air intake box and take the passenger side inner fender out for much better access to the exhaust , wiring and other stuff on that side. First thing off was the rubber elbow going from the turbo to the air box. Get a load of this gunky sludge.
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The inlet to the turbo was coated with the gunk. The turbo is seized up tight.
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Got the air box off and battery tray removed. Then the inner fender.
The belt and alternator were next. Then upper fan shroud, fan/clutch and lower shroud.
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Drained the radiator next. Kind of a oily sludge came out of there. I had to blow through the heater return with a air hose to force the sludge out.
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Upper intake was next after removing the radiator. That didn't look too bad inside compared to other things. Just a normal light oil film but a bit of moisture.
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Next was the a/c compressor and power steering pump. Both were wired up to the core support without disconnecting any hoses.
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Then the lower intake. Note the plugged intake ports. I use foam caulking backer rod. It's easy to cut and seals fairly tight to keep things out that don't belong.:agreed:
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The fuel filter/manager was the last thing for the night. a few other pics.
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Is there anything you can not fix when it comes to a 6.5TD? :dunno:

Thanks for sharing! :thumbsup:
 
Is there anything you can not fix when it comes to a 6.5TD? :dunno:

Thanks for sharing! :thumbsup:

I'm a dummy:???::???: with the NV4500s. I've never had any dealings with them. I've only owned 2 other trucks with manual trannys in close to 40 years. I'll be learning with this one and another I'll be junking soon. I probbly should have junked the other truck first to learn on:agreed::mad2::rolleyes5:
 
NEVER have I seen coolant that is anywhere near that nasty...Yikes!:eek:

The crankcase oil I drained out today is thicker than 80-90 gear oil but not as much coolant in it as I was expecting. I may do a quick autopsy when it's out to see just how bad it really is inside.
That is the nastiest coolant I've ever seen. I'm not shure how I'm going to clean the inside of the radiator and heater core. I don't want any of that crap in the new engine.
 
The heater core and radiator are new in the last 2000 miles. My local radiator shop closed up. Nearest one now is over 40 miles away. I might start a thread in the engine section looking for a cheaper way to clean them out.
 
Well then. I would suggest a trick I posted awhile back. When I rebuilt my 93 engine the parts were nasty. I used a big Craw fish/shrimp boiler pan (like 30-40gallon) and a propane burner. Mixed half Purple Power to water and let it come to a rageing boil. Those parts came out squeaky clean. (better than the hot tank at the machine shop)
If you could find a pan large enough I bet you could get it pretty clean.
 
I'm thinking the missus' bathtub, or maybe the dishwasher.

Nah... maybe not such a good plan...
 
Well then. I would suggest a trick I posted awhile back. When I rebuilt my 93 engine the parts were nasty. I used a big Craw fish/shrimp boiler pan (like 30-40gallon) and a propane burner. Mixed half Purple Power to water and let it come to a rageing boil. Those parts came out squeaky clean. (better than the hot tank at the machine shop)
If you could find a pan large enough I bet you could get it pretty clean.
:hihi:I remembered that and was thinking how I could pour the boiling solution through the rad and getting it through the heater core without removing it. :???: Another thought I had was Dawn dish soap. It works for dispersing crude oil. This sludge is similar to that. Maybe hot dawn? Or maybe some of the water base parts washer solution? Pre-rinse or pre-soak with diesel or kerosene?
I'm not real keen on the idea of actually boiling a rad with plastic end tanks.:nonod:
 
If nothing else, start out with the garden hose adapted to one end of it so at least you can get some more of that REALLY NASTY crap flushed out before actually trying to clean it out. I like the idea of the Purple Power. That's some good cleaner. Boiling not such a good idea though. I wonder if an Ag sprayer pump would flow enough to flush it in a small stock tank. Or even a parts washer pump.
 
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