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A military rebuilt 6.5

Do you have a leak down tester?

N/A injectors won't hurt spool and IIRC, the n/a nozzles depending on part number, can put out slightly more fuel.

I could be wrong but I don't think an IP can put out one bad signal per say because its a rotary design.
 
All good thoughts guys, thanks.

I just spoke on the phone with Dave at Diesel Injection Service. He said that the pump could vary from cylinder-to-cylinder because each outlet of the pump has a poppet valve. He said they've seen those be bad and cause the pump not flow the correct amount of fuel from cylinder to cylinder. It's something they can see on the test stand and even replace while on the test stand. I told him what I have done to test so far and he thought that was a plausible reason for my miss. Interestingly, he asked me what condition my rocker arms are in, to which I replied that I had the Harland Sharp rockers...so this tells me he does seem to know about 6.5 diesels somewhat. I forgot to ask him if he knew if the nozzles they use are Indian or not while I was on the phone with him, dang it.

So DIS wants $180 just to test the pump on the stand and then if they replace all the poppet valves it would be $240, so the majority of the cost is in the test. They want $1084.50 for a reman pump.

A reman pump from Conestoga is $837.85. So do I send it to DIS and hope it's the poppets and be out a minimum of $180, or do I just order a pump from Conestoga and at least have that question answered? If this thing hadn't bled me dry already it would be easy to just order the Conestoga and at least have that variable out of the equation, but unfortunately that isn't the position I'm in right now. I think I'll have to think on it and decide something later this week. Maybe I need to start donating various bodily fluids so I can support my 6.5 habit!

Will, regarding the line: while I don't rule that out, when I removed the lines from the old engine I sealed the ends with tape and only removed the tape to install the lines, so I don't think that's likely the problem though if I do have to take the lines off I will be sure to blow some air through them.

Oh also I don't remember if I mentioned it before or not, when we shut down cylinders on Friday, we noticed that numbers 1, 5 and 8 were all weaker, it's just that 5 was the weakest. So while one cylinder is weaker I do seem to have a problem with more than 1 cylinder.
 
Are you sure rockers are not binding on cylinder head casting?

I remember back in the day I had put some dino gear oil into the fuel to change its density to see if I had a worn pump issue the diesel ran better telling me the pump needed replacement. I don't know if it was the high sulfur content in the gear oil and/or denser fuel but the difference was easy to see and hear.

Since then I've used 2 stroke oil a 1 oz to 1 gal diesel pumps and injectors last longer too.
 
If YOU can swap 2 poppet valves in the pump, that would tell you if that is the problem though.

I would be inclined to get the new pump instead of paying to test, you have to add shipping 2 ways to the cost also. A new pump is expensive, but from a reliable source it eliminates possible problems and then your set for the next long time.

Interesting on the folks saying the na injectors are enough. I only tried it once, when I added my turbo and a huge difference when I dropped in the used factory turbo injectors (around the same mileage as my others) vs my na injectors. Makes me want to go swap around again just to play- if I ever get the time.
 
Try KR services aka Badger diesel on a pump as well, very respectable outfit. I'll find the post on the DP. A shop is selling remans for around $500 and they are good remans, not resealed pumps.
 
turbovanman said:
Try KR services aka Badger diesel on a pump as well, very respectable outfit. I'll find the post on the DP. A shop is selling remans for around $500 and they are good remans, not resealed pumps.
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I just looked them up. Based on the talk on DP, they have a really good reputation. Then I looked up their site, wow $415 for a rebuild without a PMD. Sounds pretty good! I have DIS looking at the poppet valve parts for me. If it's $60 for the parts to do it and all I have to do is CAREFULLY remove the old and install the new, then that's not a bad deal. But $415 for a rebuilt pump with a good reputation, that is VERY tempting. Thanks for the tip TVM.
 
FellowTraveler said:
Are you sure rockers are not binding on cylinder head casting?

I remember back in the day I had put some dino gear oil into the fuel to change its density to see if I had a worn pump issue the diesel ran better telling me the pump needed replacement. I don't know if it was the high sulfur content in the gear oil and/or denser fuel but the difference was easy to see and hear.

Since then I've used 2 stroke oil a 1 oz to 1 gal diesel pumps and injectors last longer too.
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Yeah, I installed all of the rockers without pushrods to make sure they weren't binding anymore.

I always use Stanadyne Performance Formula additive in every tankful. I follow the 8oz/30 gallons formula they advise, but since everything in the fuel system was new I bumped it up 2 times.
 
Cheap rebuilt pumps may have a used head and rotor in them. And that is generally the next problem to show up. Head and rotor, of course, be expensive. Rebuilt/reconditioned/used could mean new seals and cleaned only. Make sure you know what exactly the shop does on their re-whatever pumps.
 
WarWagon said:
Cheap rebuilt pumps may have a used head and rotor in them. And that is generally the next problem to show up. Head and rotor, of course, be expensive. Rebuilt/reconditioned/used could mean new seals and cleaned only. Make sure you know what exactly the shop does on their re-whatever pumps.
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I will check that out, thanks.
 
FWIW my reman has well over 100k on it. But as with any rebuilt pump the shop can't tell you how long it will last, as in head and rotor. It's not a huge deal to change the pump so another way to look at it is you can buy 2 rebuilt pumps for the price of a new one or a rebuild with a new head and rotor.
 
ak diesel driver said:
FWIW my reman has well over 100k on it. But as with any rebuilt pump the shop can't tell you how long it will last, as in head and rotor. It's not a huge deal to change the pump so another way to look at it is you can buy 2 rebuilt pumps for the price of a new one or a rebuild with a new head and rotor.
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Where did you get your reman?
 
n8in8or said:
I just looked them up. Based on the talk on DP, they have a really good reputation. Then I looked up their site, wow $415 for a rebuild without a PMD. Sounds pretty good! I have DIS looking at the poppet valve parts for me. If it's $60 for the parts to do it and all I have to do is CAREFULLY remove the old and install the new, then that's not a bad deal. But $415 for a rebuilt pump with a good reputation, that is VERY tempting. Thanks for the tip TVM.
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NP. I would probably go with the reman, not worth messing around IMHO.
 
Ok, just placed an order with pumpguy246 on the bay. He's only an hour from me and I couldn't find any negative info on him. I called him and he corroborated the story that DIS told me regarding the poppet valves and that very likely being my problem, especially since I'm not throwing any codes. I also confirmed that he does have a test stand, he does. So I feel pretty good about using him. $485 shipped with a PMD. He wouldn't sell it without the PMD, but for the price it's a cheap spare, albeit a used one. He doesn't charge a core, but I think I'll take my core pump to him personally to check the shop out (though first I may open up these poppet valves just to see what they are). It will be nice to have another resource within an hour of me. I can't wait to have this thing running strong on all 8 cylinders.
 
For grins, might want to check to verify whether the IP's internals are for ULSD; if not (or not certain) stock up on lubricant.
 
JayTheCPA said:
For grins, might want to check to verify whether the IP's internals are for ULSD; if not (or not certain) stock up on lubricant.
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I use Stanadyne Performance Formula additive in every tankful already and will continue to do so.
 
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