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97 hard start suddenly

MrMarty51 said:
I do hope that You will be posting parts for sale, in that section of this forum.
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I spent the day swapping the starter again. I discovered I caused the starter problem with the new starter because, while I thought the rear bracket was tight, it was not and vibrated out the bolt and was lost to the road and I found the heat shield hanging out.

After I got it out and inspected the flex plate teeth all was well. The spare replacement was a true Delco Remy made in Japan and I knew was good.

That is why you save all bolts and the like, and I have four large clear "cashew" tubs with the big screw on caps. I had a perfect match with 13mm head!!

Hot charged the batteries again and at 14.1 volts charged the glow plugs, turned the key and she leaped right life from cold.

I discovered without that front bracket, the starter can swivel just enough to side grind on the flex plate with a terrible noise rather than crank the engine.

Batteries are fully charged holding 12.8 volts (they are flooded AGM). I shall see how long this lasts. All I can say is all day while swapping the starter, the fuel pressure held static at 5 psi all day, so I was encouraged it might start - and it did.
 
Get that bracket on the starter or very bad things can and will happen! my 95 truck is living proof of what happens when that bracket is missing! the starter has enough torque to break bolts and the block where the starter mounts. the block in my 95 was broken at the outer ear that holds the starter. someone before me did this and had the block welded up. remember you cannot reliably weld on cast iron. my 95 runs like a top but it's on borrowed time due to that repair.

Please get that bracket on the starter before cranking on it again! if you want photos of mine I will dig them up to share.
 
royunion said:
A van engine won't fit in a truck. The turbo in the rear does not clear the firewall. The parts being the heads and intake are different. The other van is a GM G30 early cutaway dually that will be junked.
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Yes the heads, intake and exhaust manifold would need to be swapped out. luckily I have all those parts here on the truck and with a cracked 6.2 engine I have. all I would need is a crack free short block (block with all the innards) :)
 
If that other van has a good rear diff and trans you might want to save on it before junking the shell. those parts are hard to find in good shape. also it might have a locker diff where most have a "one wheel wonder" I was fortunate enough to be able to find a rear diff in a junk yard for parts along with a great fellow member here making it possible to change out the gears on the 95 from 4:10's to 3:73's with a locker. it allowed me to lower the RPM some for freeway driving.

Now that I have the 93 which came from another fellow member here I am slowly fixing up, I have gotten a taste of having a fully mechanical DB2 and a gearvendors overdrive unit. the 93 drives like a dream compared to the 95 that's on borrowed time. I have been spoiled by it. I'm sure it would drive just as good if it were a gasser, only it would have to be old school carbureted and none of that fuel injection electronics for when SHTF lol.

I can say I would never have been able to afford such things normally or learn about these rigs had I not come across the guys here in this forum.

What I'm saying is save on things to keep your rig going whether you decide to keep it as a gasser or diesel, things like drive train parts, interior, and more are getting hard to find and are slowly getting lost to time. I hope to be able to pass one of these trucks down to the kidos when that time comes. if my wife would let me, the yard would look like sanford n son 🤪 me saving everything because you just never know!
 
royunion said:
As little work as possible. Here is pic of the water in fuel sensor. As you can see the washer is cut funky so it can leak. The stud that got the jb weld was be unscrewing the sensor bolt completely putting jb weld light on the threads near the upper only and threading it back in. No jb weld is exposed to the inside of the filter. Water conducts electricity so when it reaches the top it grounds out setting the water in fuel light

I run mostly R99 or R95 high cetane biomass fuel anyway
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What is this R99 and R95 fuel?

Sounds like Biodiesel to me.

CHC Factsheet: Renewable Diesel (R100 or R99) | California Air Resources Board

Click here to access the PDF version of this factsheet. Date: February 21, 2023. View changes since posting in the PDF version.
ww2.arb.ca.gov ww2.arb.ca.gov
 
dbrannon79 said:
If that other van has a good rear diff and trans you might want to save on it before junking the shell. those parts are hard to find in good shape. also it might have a locker diff where most have a "one wheel wonder" I was fortunate enough to be able to find a rear diff in a junk yard for parts along with a great fellow member here making it possible to change out the gears on the 95 from 4:10's to 3:73's with a locker. it allowed me to lower the RPM some for freeway driving.

Now that I have the 93 which came from another fellow member here I am slowly fixing up, I have gotten a taste of having a fully mechanical DB2 and a gearvendors overdrive unit. the 93 drives like a dream compared to the 95 that's on borrowed time. I have been spoiled by it. I'm sure it would drive just as good if it were a gasser, only it would have to be old school carbureted and none of that fuel injection electronics for when SHTF lol.

I can say I would never have been able to afford such things normally or learn about these rigs had I not come across the guys here in this forum.

What I'm saying is save on things to keep your rig going whether you decide to keep it as a gasser or diesel, things like drive train parts, interior, and more are getting hard to find and are slowly getting lost to time. I hope to be able to pass one of these trucks down to the kidos when that time comes. if my wife would let me, the yard would look like sanford n son 🤪 me saving everything because you just never know!
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Costs money to store stuff. It is a 74 G30 where the chrome wheels are probably more valuable than anything else but the built 700r4.

The reminds me I have a laycock (gear vendors type) overdrive I need to ebay away
 
dbrannon79 said:
Get that bracket on the starter or very bad things can and will happen! my 95 truck is living proof of what happens when that bracket is missing! the starter has enough torque to break bolts and the block where the starter mounts. the block in my 95 was broken at the outer ear that holds the starter. someone before me did this and had the block welded up. remember you cannot reliably weld on cast iron. my 95 runs like a top but it's on borrowed time due to that repair.

Please get that bracket on the starter before cranking on it again! if you want photos of mine I will dig them up to share.
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You don't need to tell me. The fear that washed over me when I saw the heat shield hanging to me meant that chunk of the block was torn out where it screws in.

After getting the starter out I found all was well with the bolt hole and threads and the flex plate.

I put the old Delco Remy starter back in, and though slower crank than the new one it fired it after a 50 degree night.

But refused to start and slow cranked after going into a store, and so forced to the starting fluid - I I tried CARB cleaner first and it gave smooth kicks but not start.

A five second burst of starting fluid started it pretty smooth and fast on a REALLY slow crank.

I noticed that the fuel pressure was not holding again.

The lift pump key on pushed 15 boogie woogie wired, so not only is the new starter going to be swapped back into, but I need to still track down the leak down source.

The glow plugs are fine, as the morning cold start shows. Besides on a GM the prechamber keeps the starting fluid off of them pretty much.

This thing leaves me no choice as it was that or be embarrassing for me to sit in a parking lot with a generator and battery charger hooked up.

It looks like something on the inside workshop circuit in the van if not the interior batteries themselves is parasitic - maybe one has a shorted cell. . When manually disconnected (manual marine switch) the starting batteries hold their charge. When connected and let sit, they run everything down.

FIRST the filter swap and home made full washer, then the replacement back flow valve together then see if it will hold pressure.

@WillL gave the best suggestion how to purge the air as best possible from the IP, but right now I am going to rest a few days. Rolling around under the vehicle makes everything hurt
 
I will look and see what all is there, I know it's a couple of housing pieces and a yolk. I doubt I will have time this evening though, I'm on babysitting duty with my granddaughter tonight :) Maybe Roy will at least share the ebay listing and show us what all he has and what will be needed to make it all complete.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I will look and see what all is there, I know it's a couple of housing pieces and a yolk. I doubt I will have time this evening though, I'm on babysitting duty with my granddaughter tonight :) Maybe Roy will at least share the ebay listing and show us what all he has and what will be needed to make it all complete.
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I used to have an ebay account. 100% positive feed back on a lot of sales and purchases.
My account got hacked real bad. Some kind of a bot I suspect. I would call ebay, change the PW and before I could sign in it already had changed.
After three or four calls to ebay, being told it was then fixed, it wasnt, finally the last call the gal said that I would never be able to use that account again and that I needed to create a new account.
I tried to create a new account and a message pops up something about my account already exists or some such.
After about four attempts at that, and, not using my old email addy, I finally said heck wit dat and have not tried again.
So no ebay for me. 🥺😫
 
Ebay has changed over the years and I think now you have to verify your identity other than just an email. you might try again and see. even maybe recover your old account with their new tools. back in the day PayPal and Ebay were one with each other. you had to have both to use the site. Now i think they have separated into two and you can use one without the other.

a few years ago I was successful at recovering a very old email from yahoo I had back before I was married. don't know how I did it, but somehow I managed to gain access back. you could just imagine all the junk mail that was in there once I saw it!!
 
dbrannon79 said:
I need to look but when I bought the 93 truck there was a box of bits and pieces for another gearvendor unit. there might be an adapter for the 4l80e in there, not sure though.
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It is a laycock not a gear vendors. See https://www.maximum-overdrive.com/ for how it was to be used to replace the middle drives haft.

Anyone can set ebay to notify a keyword post
 
The gearvendor unit is an exact copy of the laylcock unit other than the way they made them direct mount to the transmissions or t-cases. it looks like yours is setup similar to how a remote t-case would. from reading up online a fella could remove the part on yours that couples with a driveshaft and bolt an adapter from a gearvendors trans piece
 
dbrannon79 said:
The gearvendor unit is an exact copy of the laylcock unit other than the way they made them direct mount to the transmissions or t-cases. it looks like yours is setup similar to how a remote t-case would. from reading up online a fella could remove the part on yours that couples with a driveshaft and bolt an adapter from a gearvendors trans piece
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Those parts and yokes are not there. Nor is the front input shaft. Nor the front shaft carrier.

It was looked into machining the parts needed. If someone there wants one, there is one on ebay right now for $399 as itm/ 375778843624

So let's put that to bed, it is cheaper than I would put mine up for and has a better tailpiece. I would be asking twice that amount

Whoever wants one head to ebay
 
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