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'95 Engine build

dbrannon79 said:
@Will L. I only see the fluidamper on leroys site. I looked on Unique Diesel and see one listed but it doesn't show anything about being AM general or Delco. I had no idea Unique was in Lubbock, TX. that's not far from me!!!
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No- not the fluid dampr- the AC DELCO from Unique via TSP. The link you showed is one of the AM GENERAL authorized distributors- as is Leroy and Unique. I posted a list of them here some time back- like 10 companies iirc.

The outfit you show:
Real4wd aka aka Kascar is a good company with great parts availability- probably the best on Individual items actually. Descent customer service too But you pay for it. They are not often the low price out there but sometimes are tied for it.
 
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Will L. said:
The puddy knife cuts through gaskets and or silicone. Because it is done in one swipe instead of back and forth scraping action, almost no debris comes free. It will stick to the metal.
I have done literally thousands like this - never had a debris field in the head.
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Okay, sorry Will L. I miss read about the wire wheel on a drill, just valve cover, not head!!!
 
Husker6.5 said:
That can happen with just a 100% Factory Stock motor, under light duty, just putting around town, having its P.O.S. factory harmonic balancer's rubber layer fail and snap the crank and break the main webs - part of the reason why we preach on here to check the H.B. regularly and replace it every 80-100K miles with either ONLY a genuine GM part or bite the wallet and go with a Fluiddamper H.B. for permanent replacement. Same with the crankshaft main pulley and its replacement - GM only.
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Fluiddamper is great, I've had no issues since 2004! If the old damper is removed with a puller from the outer diameter (IT IS TOAST - DON'T USE IT!!!).
 
AlaskaBill said:
Okay, sorry Will L. I miss read about the wire wheel on a drill, just valve cover, not head!!!
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All good. On the head when not coming off I lay a lint free cloth over the opening area of the head and just use a scraper to remove the uglies. I have used a wire wheel at times there when other people get carried away with goop, but having everything covered and ensuring everything is very clean- ok. But that has to be an extreme case and usually there is already contamination of 50 pounds of silicone (and why is it always the blue stuff?) that has that engine contaminated already.
 
Funny thing about the Fluidampr is you need a stock style damper to balance the assembly first , then install theirs . So do you bring the tolerances down further so that the FD can handle them where the stock one was overworked ? Or would the stock unit be able to survive longer now that the balance is tighter ? I know mine took 4 slugs of heavy metal to balance and I bought a new GM balancer .
 
I this might be off the rails for a balancer and I might be off my rocker asking this, but what is the actual purpose of the rubber in it? why cant they be solid all the way through?
 
Makes sense. I always thought that about the large amount of rubber in the crank pulley. every other engine I have seen here at work weather it be a cummins or some other make, had solid crank pulleys and when you shut it down the belt would always screech. one of the reasons I had questions on the billet crank pulley made for our engines.
 
Most or some find after they install the solid pulley the belt vibration or bounce is very noticable, that sends harmonics that otherwise would be absorbed. Once my run stand is here if someone wants to send a solid pulley I will video both solid and stock rubber.
 
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