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'95 Engine build

I had planned to have it balanced with the harmonic balancer which came on the HMMWV motor. Thinking about it further, though, and reading over this conversation, I concluded what I mentioned above. Is that overkill to buy a new one solely for that purpose?
 
MrMarty51 said:
The Humvee balancer, is that a fluid dampener or is that the rubber mounted unit ?
Click to expand...
Neither.
The hmmwv comes stock with an AC Delco balancer, just like all the gm truck engines did.
The balancer is the metal unit that has a THIN rubber ring then another thick metal ring.

The fluidampr is the ALL metal one (has fluid on the inside you never will see). It has no rubber anywhere. This is an aftermarket balancer.

The big rubber mounted device that bolts onto to balancer and has grooves for the serpentine belt- is the pulley aka drive pulley. The factory one is also built by AC Delco, and is also available from Kascar. There are cheap aftermarket ones with a ton of rubber in them also- they all suck. Then there is Leroy’s billet all metal unit. It is well made, but there is concerns about not having the rubber to absorb belt shock from the accessories like power steering pump back down to the crank, or belt slip/chirp/ wear that wouldn’t exist with the factory unit.
I have reserved my input on this even though I have experience with one before Leroy had his- because mine was made differently and maybe from different material so mine might have performed different than his. Although I bought one of Leroy’s first ones made- I have been waiting until my engine was rebuilt to install it.

I doubt Chris will be able to do the slow mo recording I have seen when mine was tested, my uses at the time was not for longevity.
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
Then use the Humvee balancer, it's not a fake....
Click to expand...
I guess I should have worded My question differently.
If a person is planning on using the fluid dampener, and getting the rotating assemblies balanced.
Then they should send in a regular harmonic balancer to get the mass balanced, then, when assembling the engine install the fluid dampener ?
Thats the portion I didnt understand.
 
Also, it would be nice if someone could make a fluid dampener flywheel and flexplate for the back end of the engine.
Or would such a device create unwanted harmonics amongst the entire length of the cranking shaft ?
 
MrMarty51 said:
I guess I should have worded My question differently.
If a person is planning on using the fluid dampener, and getting the rotating assemblies balanced.
Then they should send in a regular harmonic balancer to get the mass balanced, then, when assembling the engine install the fluid dampener ?
Thats the portion I didnt understand.
Click to expand...
Yes, you don't balance the assembly with a fluid damper you use a stock rubber one.
 
So use the one you have to balance- then install the fluidampr during build- Chris has you on point. Lock that solid in your head. I don’t wanna confuse the importance of that.

Why not use fluid one for balancing- because the fluid one constantly changes based vibrations which are different at different rpm. The machinist would be making a correction based on what is happening with the fluid. The balance is done with the stock one because the stock one, and the fluid damper will have the generic solid weight in the same place.

Then with the engine balanced, and the fluid unit on there, has the engine has vibrations that are coming back under the crankshaft from loads from the transmission or elsewhere. The fluid damper can now offset those problems.

The balancer is on the front of the crankshaft only because there’s such a huge load on the back of the crankshaft that the transmission input shaft is keeping that part of the crankshaft solid look through broken crankshaft pictures, and it is almost never the crankshaft broke close to the fly wheel or clutch

You have a stick that is very stabilized on the backend and whipping around on the front end. The harmonic balancer helps stabilize the front of the stick. We don’t like broken sticks.
 
Been there, done that! Main bearing web cracked through OTBD threaded fastener holes and broke, unsupported crank followed. Happened in 2007 with 135,000 miles on truck running 15 pounds of boost for three years on a 21:1 compression engine.IMG_4441.jpg
 
I got a before shot, but realized when I got home today that I neglected to get an after shot on the paint on the frame. I used a rust reformer product for the surface rust before going over it with primer and paint. Nothing fancy and not nearly as much detailed "frame off" type work N8in8or does, but it's clean. This doesn't see salt, either, so the rust isn't scaled - just minimal on the surface. I covered things up to keep overspray off. Just a side note - all the painting was done before dad pulled one of his trucks in.
 

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Leroy Diesel from https://leroydiesel.com/ arranged P400 heads for me. From what I can tell, these were poured right here in Ohio at Dalton Foundry if that is what I see in the castings. I picked up the heads from GEP. The one photo is just the dock door. It doesn't mean much, but I thought it was pretty cool. Apparently, they also build 4L85E transmissions at the other end of the building. 20230123_132535.jpg20230123_091950.jpg20230123_091844.jpg
 
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