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'95 Engine build

My thoughts here only..... If higher compression was such a better gain for power, someone explain why tractor pullers, drag, any type of power sports where diesel is concerned, they all, or the many I have talked to, go to low compression and more fuel and air, you must make room for more fuel and air, I wonder how many go higher comp route with success.
 
"Towing" is a very open term, towing a boat, lawn mower, g/n load of hay, camper, etc. Are you going to use a different turbo, use a tune? I don't know, I have had folks tell me a known tuner doesn't have a tune for l/c motors, so maybe you need to stick with stock compression for simplicity.....
 
Livestock trailer up to about 6-8 steers. fifth wheel camper on occasion. 30 ft. gooseneck with small utility tractor or another truck loaded onto it. Sometimes in the hills of southern Ohio.

I have Heath's GL4 tune now. I plan to upgrade turbo if I can.
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
My thoughts here only..... If higher compression was such a better gain for power, someone explain why tractor pullers, drag, any type of power sports where diesel is concerned, they all, or the many I have talked to, go to low compression and more fuel and air, you must make room for more fuel and air, I wonder how many go higher comp route with success.
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Exactly- i was stuck in gasoline engine concept and once I got around people making descent power, I learned what the difference was, and why I jumped ship on high compression low boost for low compression high boost.
 
SnowDrift said:
Livestock trailer up to about 6-8 steers. fifth wheel camper on occasion. 30 ft. gooseneck with small utility tractor or another truck loaded onto it. Sometimes in the hills of southern Ohio.

I have Heath's GL4 tune now. I plan to upgrade turbo if I can.
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You are done. A bigger turbo is not an option, it is a need for you.
 
I've spoke my mind on the subject and I think everyone here knows my stance. Back years ago I built a GEP for my k2500 to test or prove to myself the coating parts, if it did what's claimed or not, the thread is still here somewhere. That truck got 20mpg and easily keep up with a mild dmax towing. A former member here drove down from Wisconsin to drive it, I loaded it to 20k and let him drive, he was dumbfounded it ran so well and offered a even trade for the 93 dually I now own. @btfarm rode in it when we met later to make the trade. So, I give real world advice and don't care where a person spends there money.
 
Yes- I would suggest lowering your compression and running a larger turbo. Lowering the compression and keeping a Gm turbo would be an error. I don’t push lower compression to everyone- but hauling what you said you will, it would be better imo.

Chris and I disagree about the waterpump issue- but we have spoken on the phone about it in the past- and both understand where the other is coming from. I hold the utmost respect for Chris’ opinion and his work speaks well for itself.

The heat issue of the 6.5 is a problem that needs correction and there is more than one way to do it. His method of making the entire engine perform much better and adding the hmmwv fan clutch system eliminates the issue. I am biased to the newer design water pump at a minimum because of my history.
 
You don't need lower compression to move a lot of weight. However, you absolutely MUST keep the engine cool (@200 max), and it is much easier to do with lower compression. Look at TSP's chart (calculations) for cylinder pressure and you'll understand why lower compression allows an engine to live longer. If money dictates bigger turbo OR lower compression, that is up to you as to which you tackle first. I tow up to 15k locally a couple times a year with stock compression. I also have a modified hx35, intercooler and water/meth injection (14gph nozzle), AND all the cooling upgrades. If you lower compression, you're still going to need a bigger turbo to provide the proper amount of oxygen.
 
SnowDrift said:
I got the impression from Will and TSP that you're both suggesting lower compression for my application if I can do so. Based on the post above (#130) it isn't clear to me now.
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What part of post #130 gave you pause? Lower compression, either Marine pistons or another route other than thick MLS gaskets. A better turbo, a hybrid 35/40/12cm would be my choice for a auto tranny ds4, 14cm if manual tranny and a db2. Post up that file I sent you for others to see.
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
I've spoke my mind on the subject and I think everyone here knows my stance.
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I wasn't sure how to read this above.

On the chart, if I understand if correctly, assuming we're sitting at 15psi boost, a guy would see lower air temperature and far lower pressure with the ratio at 18:1 rather than 21:1. I figure that leads to longevity with lower pressure situation and probably also supports Will's theory that me running high boost may have led to the demise of the original engine. That 15 psi was held for several minutes on several occasions when pulling up a long grade we have to pass through in southern Ohio. Laden with dad's '01 Duramax and 30 ft. gooseneck once, a camper and tandem trailer with ATVs several times, to boot. A/C was on the whole time and temperature didn't creep up, but I didn't show any mercy, letting off the throttle. The trip down to Mobile, Alabama after Katrina to help with clean up was full of grades like this as we passed through several states. Stock trailer was full of saws, food, clothes, about 250 gallons of fuel, etc.

Pressure&Temperature.PNG

This type of information is exactly the type I'm seeking, below - thumbs up:
1673366026041.png
 
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